UPDATE

Life will be boring without drama, right?
I changed my heart in the last moment and decided to use polyurethane clear instead of 2K, thinking its amber tone will complement excellently the copper. I tried first on the rims and it worked a threat! I moved to the engine cover and spoiler and here the things took a completely different turn. The clear coat started making bubbles and set unevenly. I recognized immediately the symptom: too little thinner. I tried to save it in the last moment, applying a heavily thinned coat, but It started running... Too bad for me: in the areas where the clear went good, the shine was just amazing! I threw the parts in my ultrasound cleaner for stripping, using enamel thinner as cleaning agent. The spoiler went clean right away but the engine cover didn't clean properly not even after the third 360 seconds cycle and the thinner began to etch the plastic surface:

I start restoring the parts and everything works fine (I guess)

The body had to suffer less of an ordeal in my hands: just some light sanding to eliminate the orange peel or grit deposits. Only now I can claim the body is silky smooth:

Once dry, the body will receive a patching paint job and a 2K clear coat, as per initial plan.

Cheers!
Gabriel

Your copper looks fantastic Gabriel and I agree the Rust-oleum looks better than the Alclad. I have never seen a cooper car so this will be a first for me. The finish looks flawless.

Gabriel,

Great save on the clear coating issues. How are you going to remove the rest of the paint on the spoiler? The shell really does look smooth and consistent. I concur that going with 2K clearcoat is the right choice as you're an expert with it. One day I'll get there for sure.

UPDATE

I have reclaimed my spoiler. After stripping the paint, I sanded it with 2000 grit Tamiya sponge and it was ready. I went determined to finish it in one session: Krylon gloss black - airbrush cleaning - Alclad II Copper - airbrush change and 2K mixing - 2K coating. Easy!

And that was it with the spoiler. There are some dry paint spots breaking here and there the surface of the clear, but nothing to worry: 2K behaves very well under sanding sponge and all I need there is a smooth base for carbon fiber decal. Case solved!

Gabriel,
Congrats on the save. it' looks perfect.

Joel

Gabriel,
WoW !! You're the master of 2K clear finishes for sure.

After discussing my idea with Gabriel of doing a full build blog in the Car forum and just making a short post here about the new update with a few pictures, I've decided to use that method as I did with aircraft campaign builds.

My reasoning is simply that the vast majority of builders don't visit campaign threads unless they have a active build or just finished one in that campaign. Hence, a great deal of excellent builds are never seen.

So moving forward, my next update to the Porsche 956 build will follow that format, and I'm going to duplicate the current update as the start to my build.

Joel

Gabriel,
The chassis pan looks perfect. As for your Romanian saying, My mother parents were born there, so I'm at least 25% Romanian.Go figure.

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Gabriel,
The chassis pan looks perfect. As for your Romanian saying, My mother parents were born there, so I'm at least 25% Romanian.Go figure.

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Thanks, Joel The shield still has some "floating grit" on the surface, but I have discovered that you don't even need to sand that one - just a light buffing with a cotton cloth does the job!

Haha! That's a funny one! It takes two of us to make three quarters of a Romanian, because, strictly on bloodline, am only 50% myself That's why is so hard to be a Romanian!

Cheers!
Gabriel

Gabriel
Your home made CF decals in both cases came out perfect. Application wise, the 2nd one looks more in scale.

And see, you did go back to fix an issue rather then just moving on, as almost no one would have even noticed the scale issue.

Joel

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Gabriel
Your home made CF decals in both cases came out perfect. Application wise, the 2nd one looks more in scale.

And see, you did go back to fix an issue rather then just moving on, as almost no one would have even noticed the scale issue.

Joel

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Well, I know what you mean. But my answer here is yes and no.

On the detached piece it looks good enough from the firs try, but when attached to the whole assembly, the size of the fiber would have popped out big time. It would have had the same width like a cowboy's buckle belt
Besides, when I printed the pattern, I printed the whole A4 sheet so I said I better waste another five minutes to scale down the entire pattern to save countless minutes in the following builds. Perhaps if I do only inserts or textile patterns on the seats, a whole sheet is a 5-6 models reserve.

Gabriel

Gabriel,
I'm thinking about trying to print some decals myself, including CF ones. All I have is regular HP InkJet printer. Might start googling decal printing, and see what I can come up with.

Gabriel,
I'm totally confused. Where did the gloss black paint job come from? Is that the base under the Copper or another build?

Joel

Gabriel,
Thanks for jogging my retarded memory into actually remembering the start of your build with the spoon test. The Back over the various base colors while hard for me to see what you're seeing, does indeed look like the black pops most with the Copper while the Bronze is a close 2nd.