Gabriel my friend, between this build and Joel's Porsche, you two are really showing what can be achieved with skills and patience. Too often I have seen potentially great builds ending up looking very average because the modeler just wanted to get it finished and on the shelf, and took the "that will do" attitude. Both of you have identified and rectified any issues without fuss, and this truly shows in the quality of what you are showing us.
The 2K clear on this build has come up beautifully and it give the body the look of a concourse level classic.
Keep up the great work, and keep the updates coming.

Cheers, D

Gabriel,
Is that the glass from the Mac?
Joel

I need to find me a step by step guide to use Alclad. Then sticky the thread. Wouldn't mind trying the stuff, but it seems finicky.

Looking real sharp.

Think I might try to polish to shine before I tackle a paint job like this.

Good job, man

I need to find me a step by step guide to use Alclad. Then sticky the thread. Wouldn't mind trying the stuff, but it seems finicky.

Gabriel,
Strange that your customer would prefer to have the body and chassis shipped separately, hence, no additional engine bay detailing. I would think that having the chassis & body joined, and with the hood down, that the entire engine compartment would be the most secure area of the car during shipping. But as you said, it's the owners request, so be it.

Joel

Really? We're not gonna see it all put together?

That's it! I'm going home before I get angry. People don't like it when I get angry.

My short guide to spraying Alclads:
1. Plastic surface needs to be well polished and refined before base coat;
2. Apply a wet black basecoat (any gloss enamel / lacquer) - the glossier the undercoat, the better the metallic result;
3. Drain and flush the A/B, then apply Alclad in fast paces over the still wet black. A/B pressure @ 18-20 psi, fine atomization nozzle (I usually use my H&S Infinity with .15mm setup).
4. If the surface is "dusty", polish out with soft cloth (cotton bud), minimal pressure applied, after the Alclad is completely dried.

I hope this helps. As Joel suggested, there are many video examples on YT. By trial and error, you need to find your own "best" method.

Gabriel

I am already learning so much. I might have to try it on some spoons if I can get my hands on some.

UPDATE - on the go
Again, not much time at my disposal these days, but I still managed to throw a layer of 2K on the hood. That hood was troublesome from the good beginning, because the raised rib and the curved corners. This time I tried and sprayed the 2K with a .15 setup, because the small surface and I didn't wanted to drench it heavily. Only that my calculus was wrong again: It takes actually more resin with a small setup to achieve a wet surface
However, there she is, with the inherent few "grits" on the surface (I cannot wait for those compounds!).



The last two "big" problems I have is to print a decal to emulate the windshield liquid pouch:

That is a big splash of color that cannot be ignored in the engine compartment. AMT were kindly enough to provide all decals as doubles, but they never thought of that pouch, which is accordingly molded on the sidewall

The other "biggie" is the chrome lines on the headliner.

By the original finish, I should have them done in BMF, but the space is too tight for my modeling knife, and probably I'm gonna end up picking them with a silver felt pen

Gabriel

Gabriel,
The hood looks great. Well done.

I'm looking forward to seeing your homemade decals for the pouch. that should add just a touch more color to the engine compartment.

Don't forget that the easiest way to clean all that dried polish and wax is with your air brush and plain old water.

Joel

Gabriel,
Just how much drugs or even plastic explosives did they figure you could have squeezed into a plastic model truck? What an absolute mess they made of it.

Joel

Have you ever tried those Molotow pens? I got one on my bench and it seems like it would be perfect for this.

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Have you ever tried those Molotow pens? I got one on my bench and it seems like it would be perfect for this.

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I haven't used it yet, Charlie. I've heard they're very good, but also they dry very slowly (from this last reason I never bought them). Indeed, in this case seemingly would have been the perfect thing, because after I do the headliner inserts, I have no reason to fiddle with them anymore.
I will add one on my shopping list.

Cheers!
Gabriel