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Discuss all types of automotive modeling here.
When Im 64 (1936-2000)
AussieReg
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#007
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Victoria, Australia
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Posted: Sunday, June 02, 2019 - 01:09 AM UTC

Quoted Text

Just an amazing attention to detail after detail. This just might be your finest car modeling effort to date.



Thanks Joel. This is my first time attempting such comprehensive weathering, but I have spent a lot of time on YouTube and picked up several publications on the art, so I just need to step up and put it into practice now.

Some primer shenanigans last night. The first time I have tried an AMMO by Mig product, "One Shot Primer Brown Oxide", and it fought me all the way! The label says to use unthinned, minimum 0.3 tip, 20-30psi, light coats to build up the coverage. Well my dual-action is a 0.25 tip so I played it safe and dragged out old faithful Paasche-H. I tried various pressures within the recommended range, I tried all three tip sets (#1, #3, #5), and I tried from unthinned up to about 50% MLT. I had non-stop tip clogging and spidering at every turn.
In the end I basically used the #3 tip wide open at about 25psi and just had to keep unclogging the tip, and then misted on a light coat of neat MLT to give the top layer the opportunity to even out. The finish is just barely OK, and I'm not sure that I will bother with this product again. I will try a couple of alternative Oxide primers for my rust basing and put this bottle into quarantine for the moment.
I will let Jack Nicholson sum up how I'm feeling right now


Cheers, D
AussieReg
Staff MemberAssociate Editor
AUTOMODELER
#007
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Victoria, Australia
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Posted: Sunday, June 02, 2019 - 01:46 AM UTC
Rant out of the way, on with the show!

You can see in the following images how crappy the primer coat is, I will be giving it a good sand and go over the top with another primer if necessary. I will also be giving it a random spray of highly thinned orange and yellow and red to give the rust variation before I seal it with Dullcote.
I have also had a first draft attempt at carving out some rust holes from the areas that I thinned out from the inside. I will go over these again after the sanding.





As always, any and all comments, critiques and suggestions gratefully accepted. This is a learning exercise for me


Cheers, D
Dixon66
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New Hampshire, United States
Joined: December 12, 2002
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Posted: Sunday, June 02, 2019 - 02:08 AM UTC
Looks good Damian and I think the extra "texture" of the rough primer will actually help the realism of the final rusted out finish.
AussieReg
Staff MemberAssociate Editor
AUTOMODELER
#007
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Victoria, Australia
Joined: June 09, 2009
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Auto Modeler: 2,227 posts
Posted: Sunday, June 02, 2019 - 02:17 AM UTC
Having the top and rumble seat removed, along with all of the glass, the interior will be visible from all angles, so I need to convert this:

into this:

BTW, found the above image on eBay, good source for reference material


Step 1, assemble troops


Step 2, cut, test dry fit door panels with shell and chassis



Step 3, scribble a plan of attack and confuse myself with my own hieroglyphics


Step 4, clamp LH and RH door panels together to pre-drill consistently.


Step 5, drill pilot holes for cut-outs


Step 6 and onwards, pour spiced rum, turn music up, cut out penetrations and add layers, more layers, drill more holes




Joel_W
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Posted: Sunday, June 02, 2019 - 02:33 AM UTC
D,
You've really stepped this build up to a whole new level. Every update post is loaded with details, how to's, and even what didn't work and why. Just great stuff. Just love how the detailing for the rumble seat door came out. and the start of your rust work is amazing.

As for your Mig Ammo primer issues, I used and still do use both the gray and Black primer for anything that isn't going to be shot with a lacquer based color coat. And I've been using them since they 1st came out in my Aeroscale days. For some reason shooting Neat seems to be mentioned all the time as it's the easy way out, and in MHO the wrong way for anyone to generally air brush. I thin both with Tamiya X20-A and have even thinned it with Yellow cap with no issues. For large parts I use a 5mm setup, for smaller parts I use a 3mm set up in my Grex AB's. For a flow rate I use 18 psi with the 5mm and 16 psi with the 3mm setup just because I'm in closer to the small parts. I do a few light tack coats, then a few wet coats, and that's it.

My working PSI is usually a little higher then most other guys because my two hoses are 6 ft. not the usual 3 ft., and I need a little more psi because of that. The reason for the long hoses is that my compressor is by my workbench, which is several feet away from the paint booth setup by the window.

Joel
AussieReg
Staff MemberAssociate Editor
AUTOMODELER
#007
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Victoria, Australia
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Posted: Sunday, June 02, 2019 - 03:33 AM UTC

Quoted Text

Looks good Damian and I think the extra "texture" of the rough primer will actually help the realism of the final rusted out finish.



Thanks David, appreciate the feedback. I totally agree, I'm not looking for a silky smooth primer, but the way this stuff was splattering out was a nightmare. The MLT mist coat pulled it back to a nice texture for the world-weary finish I'm after.

Joel, I will give the primer a go with X-20A and see how it performs before I shelve it totally. Many thanks for the feedback and advice.

The music was good and the spiced rum was flowing so the tinkering continued.

Framework for door panels in place


Door panel installed

The bottom will be hidden by the profile of the floor structure, so no need to tidy that up.

Looking at it from various angles through the shell I'm really happy. Once it gets a shot of primer and some colour it will nicely represent the details on the bare door panels.




Rust damage and bullet holes


I'm having a lot of fun with this, artistic license and surface texture variations allow a lot of freedom to explore.

Cheers, D
Joel_W
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Posted: Sunday, June 02, 2019 - 04:03 AM UTC
D,
the door panel really looks good.

As a side note, coming back from another emergency run to the hospital for my Mother in law's failing health, a chopped 3 window 32 Ford Coupe in super waxed Gloss Black passed us in the opposite direction. Now my wife isn't a car person what so ever as the Maserati 2 door that blew our doors off on the way there could have cared less. But the Coupe really caught her attention! Maybe there's hope for her yet.

Joel
RussellE
#306
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Victoria, Australia
Joined: June 27, 2010
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Posted: Sunday, June 02, 2019 - 11:04 PM UTC
one helluva update D!

Looking good!
AussieReg
Staff MemberAssociate Editor
AUTOMODELER
#007
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Victoria, Australia
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Posted: Sunday, June 02, 2019 - 11:30 PM UTC

Quoted Text

one helluva update D!

Looking good!



Cheers Russ, it looks even gooder with primer on now! Yes, I am an impatient git, I just wanted to see the effect with some colour.





Next step is some random mottling with Yellow/Orange/Red highly thinned to give some variation to the rust base.

Cheers, D
Joel_W
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Posted: Monday, June 03, 2019 - 12:38 AM UTC
D,
Every update is even more impressive. I still remember that engine stand you were rusting. it sure not only look mighty good, but realistic as well.

Joel
AussieReg
Staff MemberAssociate Editor
AUTOMODELER
#007
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Victoria, Australia
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Posted: Monday, June 03, 2019 - 12:59 AM UTC

Quoted Text

D,
Every update is even more impressive. I still remember that engine stand you were rusting. it sure not only look mighty good, but realistic as well.

Joel



Funny you should mention that Joel, I actually dragged that stand out today and looked at the scale of the salt "bubbles" in the surface finish against the car and I am seriously considering using that technique on parts of the Ford build.

Cheers, D
Hwa-Rang
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Kobenhavn, Denmark
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Posted: Monday, June 03, 2019 - 10:11 PM UTC
That is some high class scratchbuilding Damian.
Joel_W
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Posted: Tuesday, June 04, 2019 - 12:59 AM UTC

Quoted Text


Quoted Text

D,
Every update is even more impressive. I still remember that engine stand you were rusting. it sure not only look mighty good, but realistic as well.

Joel



Funny you should mention that Joel, I actually dragged that stand out today and looked at the scale of the salt "bubbles" in the surface finish against the car and I am seriously considering using that technique on parts of the Ford build.

Cheers, D




D,
Please do. I thought it was one of the most realistic Rusting finishes I've seen.

Joel
AussieReg
Staff MemberAssociate Editor
AUTOMODELER
#007
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Victoria, Australia
Joined: June 09, 2009
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Posted: Tuesday, June 04, 2019 - 02:08 AM UTC
Tamiya acrylics in Yellow/Orange/Red thinned right down and randomly shot around the parts, then a couple of good coats of Dullcote thinned 50:50 with GP Lacquer Thinner. Using the cheap GP thinner actually gives a dead flat finish, whereas if you use MLT it cures slower and with a very slight sheen.





Hairspray next then the colour application starts.

Cheers, D
Stickframe
#362
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California, United States
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Posted: Tuesday, June 04, 2019 - 02:54 AM UTC
Hi Damian - to quote the Allman Bros, “you ain’t wasting time no more” - you’re really moving through this build - looks great! The door panels are a nice touch.

Looking forward to the rust, I hear it never sleeps....

Cheers
Nick
AussieReg
Staff MemberAssociate Editor
AUTOMODELER
#007
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Victoria, Australia
Joined: June 09, 2009
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Posted: Tuesday, June 04, 2019 - 03:28 AM UTC

Quoted Text

Hi Damian - to quote the Allman Bros, “you ain’t wasting time no more” - you’re really moving through this build - looks great! The door panels are a nice touch.

Looking forward to the rust, I hear it never sleeps....

Cheers
Nick



Thanks Nick, I'm really enjoying this kit. Low parts count, quite a good fit, very nice details on the parts that will be visible, really relaxing to work on.

You dug deep in the Allman Brothers pile there mate, back to 1972. It's one of my favourite tracks though, nicely done! Neil Young on the other hand, not my cup of tea. Legendary songwriter but I don't like his vocals or guitar style. Same with Bob Dylan, everybody who has covered his songs has done it better!

As I said earlier, I am aiming to get some work done on the first 2 kits prior to the start of the TBO, then commence the third and finish all 3 together during the 6 month time frame of the Group Build. While the Dullcote was curing tonight I cracked in to the second kit, the original stock version. Spent some time cleaning up flash, filling some ejector pin marks with Sprue-Goo, sanding off mould lines and setting up some sub assemblies (including putting a back on the seat AGAIN). This one is going to be the traditional "any colour you like as long as it's black" black finish, undecided on interior colour just yet.



Cheers, D
Joel_W
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Posted: Tuesday, June 04, 2019 - 06:00 AM UTC
D,
The start of the rust applications really is looking good.

As for the Showroom stock build, since you're going with a Black exterior (Matt or Gloss?), I'm sure that Henry would love it if you went with his traditional black interior as well.

Joel
AussieReg
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AUTOMODELER
#007
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Victoria, Australia
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Posted: Wednesday, June 05, 2019 - 12:08 AM UTC
Doing some research on the interior and everything points to a medium brown interior with black rubber floor mats and pale grey dashboard for the '36.

I will keep looking and see what else I can find.

Cheers, D
Joel_W
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New York, United States
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Posted: Wednesday, June 05, 2019 - 12:25 AM UTC

Quoted Text

Doing some research on the interior and everything points to a medium brown interior with black rubber floor mats and pale grey dashboard for the '36.

I will keep looking and see what else I can find.

Cheers, D



D,
I really like that a whole lot better then plain old black that I figured was the standard color.

Joel
AussieReg
Staff MemberAssociate Editor
AUTOMODELER
#007
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Victoria, Australia
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Posted: Wednesday, June 05, 2019 - 12:34 AM UTC
Here's a couple of "low-mileage originals" that I found:




Decision made

Cheers, D
Joel_W
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Posted: Wednesday, June 05, 2019 - 01:04 AM UTC
D,
As Rocky would have said: Go for it.

Joel
AussieReg
Staff MemberAssociate Editor
AUTOMODELER
#007
_VISITCOMMUNITY
Victoria, Australia
Joined: June 09, 2009
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Posted: Wednesday, June 05, 2019 - 12:53 PM UTC
Back to the rusty shell, next step was a good coat of cheap hairspray, medium hold home brand rubbish, but it made the place smell nice! After that had dried, about 20 minutes, I picked out some Tamiya acrylic colours that looked close to the paint still remaining on the shell. This was highly thinned down and sprayed around randomly in some places, and more focussed in others with an eye on the reference images.





I then set about working on the paint with the basic tool set of a paint stirrer, stiff scrubbing brush and cup of water. Please bear in mind that this is the first time I have tried this technique, but watching plenty of tutorials and reading articles by the experts gives some confidence, and worst case scenario I can always strip it back and start again. I decided to start on a small part, the rumble seat cover. After about 10 minutes of cautious work you can see what it looks like.

I used the corner of the paint stirrer to etch a couple of shallow lines to make some scratch marks, then applied some water to the surface and gave it a few minutes to work through the paint. Below is a "before and after" shot, I have circled the scratch marks. There are some areas where the Dullcote didn't cover well enough so the water has worked right through to the plastic, but I can easily cover them up when I start with the rust effects paints later.


I'm fairly happy with the look so far, I'm working slowly and drying off the water on the surface frequently so that the paint doesn't come off in large swathes. I will carry on with the other half of this part and take a look again.

Once I am finished with this stage, I will lock it in with Dullcote, apply more hairspray, then repeat the same process with black paint on the fenders and running boards.

Cheers, D
Joel_W
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Posted: Thursday, June 06, 2019 - 12:31 AM UTC
D,
Simply amazing results.

Joel
AussieReg
Staff MemberAssociate Editor
AUTOMODELER
#007
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Victoria, Australia
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Posted: Thursday, June 06, 2019 - 01:51 AM UTC

Quoted Text

Simply amazing results.



Thanks Joel, I'm very happy with the way this is coming up! It is surprisingly satisfying to sit with a cup of water and a couple of simple tools and create a finish like this.

Some more experimenting today with new products to cover up the bare plastic and give some variation to the rust effects.


It is an enamel products, and very easy to use. I just had a 20/0 round brush and dabbed it on where I wanted it. A few minutes to dry off a bit then I dipped the tip of the brush in some Tamiya X-20 Enamel Thinner and used it to work the rust effect around a bit, thin it out in places, and even turn it into a kind of wash or filter in other places. Starting with the Dark Rust, then the Medium, then the Light, applying them one on top of the other in decreasing amounts, to build up the effect of old to new rust.

Before and after shots of the rumble seat cover:


I still have some "adjustment" work to do to push the finish around a bit and thin it out, and then a final super-thin dark filter to dull it all down.

I also tinkered with the engine side covers while I was on a roll.


I must say I am impressed with this product from AK, it is easy to use, reasonably priced, and the finish is flat and grainy as would be expected for real rust. I will definitely be using this a lot more, and playing around with application techniques such as sponging and Q-tips.

Cheers, D
Joel_W
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Posted: Thursday, June 06, 2019 - 07:05 AM UTC
D,
The product from AK is certainly impressive, but how you've gone about the rusting process has produced a finish that I honestly thought you'd posted pictures of the real parts. That's how good it's turning out.

Joel