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Discuss all types of automotive modeling here.
When Im 64 (1936-2000)
Joel_W
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Posted: Thursday, July 04, 2019 - 01:30 AM UTC
D,
The finished Black paint looks great with a super shine.

I do have one question for you about the GX100 clear gloss. it's not available here in the States but I keep on hearing about how great it is over any other of the super clears from Mr. Hobby/Mr. Color.

Is it an enamel base rather then a lacquer base which their #46 Clear Gloss is, and what I use.

As a side note it's also not easy to always find in stock, so I have 12 full bottles of it, and keep on ordering some with every order from my usual resources. That's the good point, but the bad point is that they're only 10ml bottles, so I go through the stuff pretty quickly.

Joel
AussieReg
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Posted: Thursday, July 04, 2019 - 03:20 PM UTC

Quoted Text

Is it an enamel base rather then a lacquer base which their #46 Clear Gloss is, and what I use.



Joel, the GX range is lacquer based.

Time for one of my "put it all together to see how it looks" posts, this time the stock '36.

I pondered and researched interior door colours for a while, but then I put the tub into the shell and realised that you can't see anything in there anyway, so I decided to just hand paint the top panel of the door interior to match the leather seats. I'm happy with the leather look and the highly technical application of forehead or nose skin oil by forefinger and thumb is an on-going process to get the lustre. I have a couple of spots to touch up and tidy up some bleeding, but nothing major.


The wheels and chrome hubcaps are on, just a white trim ring on the hubcaps to add there. The hood and grille are all one assembly for easy removal to display the engine bay, but I think I will need to add a small pin to the bottom of the grille to get it to sit properly in place on the firewall. I unmasked the running boards and roof panel to check how the contrast of the XF-69 Acrylic Nato Black looked against the gloss black, and I'm really happy with that.



As always please let me know if you spot something that needs attention that I might have missed.

Cheers, D
Joel_W
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Posted: Friday, July 05, 2019 - 01:00 AM UTC
D,
Now I'm more confused then before. If both the GX 100 and their #46 are clear gloss lacquers, just what is the difference? I'm wondering if the two lines of paint & clears are meant to meet different import/shipping regulations per country.

The leather seats really have that leather sheen with skin oils that's really hard to duplicate with paint finishes.

As for the Nato Black running boards, they clearly look like rubber up against the Black Gloss body.

Oh BTW, remember when I posted that Ford only sold Gloss, Semi Gloss, or Flat Black Model T's, but I was totally wrong as to the reason why. This little fact came up in a documentary I was watching online (talk about a boring life). Black was decided on because it dried much faster then any of the other colors. Does make sense, but just I can't see how the drying times would be that much different.

Joel
Szmann
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Posted: Tuesday, July 09, 2019 - 02:02 AM UTC
D., I just don't know how you manage to put together such a string of amazing builds!
I'm speechless!
The rust looks realistic for sure and the scratch-building is spot-on.
On the diorama setting: my favorite positioning would be #3 option because it has more axial symmetry.

Following up this great build series!

Cheers!
Gabriel
AussieReg
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#007
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Posted: Tuesday, July 09, 2019 - 03:36 PM UTC

Quoted Text

D,
Now I'm more confused then before. If both the GX 100 and their #46 are clear gloss lacquers, just what is the difference? I'm wondering if the two lines of paint & clears are meant to meet different import/shipping regulations per country.



Hi Joel.

I did a little bit of reading and I am a bit confused as well, but I think there is a slight difference in the carrier or solvent compounds (Toluene is not present), and they are claiming higher opacity and stronger finish.

Cheers, D
AussieReg
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Posted: Tuesday, July 09, 2019 - 03:37 PM UTC

Quoted Text

D., I just don't know how you manage to put together such a string of amazing builds!
I'm speechless!
The rust looks realistic for sure and the scratch-building is spot-on.
On the diorama setting: my favorite positioning would be #3 option because it has more axial symmetry.

Following up this great build series!

Cheers!
Gabriel



Hi Gabriel.

Great to see you back in circulation here. Many thanks for checking in and your feedback is very much appreciated.

I must admit, I am on a bit of a roll at the moment and I am having a lot of fun experimenting with new techniques and products on this project.

Cheers, D
AussieReg
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#007
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Posted: Sunday, July 14, 2019 - 11:39 PM UTC
Interior tub on the stock model is done. Some chrome silver highlights and a very light pin wash because it is very tight and dark inside once assembled.


The glass parts were cleaned up, trimmed to size, dipped in Future then fixed into place.



The belt/pulley assembly was fixed to the front of the engine, and the radiator put into place as this cannot be added after the fender section is fitted. The brass water tank might get cleaned up a bit, I think I went too far with the wear on the edges.



The fender section of the body was then added to the chassis.



Time to dry test fit the main body shell to see how it looks.


It took some time wrestling the major assembly together on the stock model here, once the tub was fixed into the shell and the fender section fixed down to the chassis, things all went slightly out of alignment, and a fair bit of pressure and a volume of CA was required to get it all to stay put. Hopefully it won't pop apart again!


Next thing is to do some fine tuning on the hood/grille/side cover assembly to get a neat fit there, then we are on to the engine bay detailing.


I'm going to put this one away for a while now and gather my thoughts as to the next steps, plenty of other builds to tinker with

Cheers, D
Joel_W
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Posted: Monday, July 15, 2019 - 03:42 AM UTC
D,
sounds like you had your hands full with the final assembly. The work needed to fit the shell to the chassis was well worth it, as the results speak for themselves.

I'm looking forward to seeing how you handle the engine hood & grill once you pick up the build again.

Joel
Szmann
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Posted: Monday, July 15, 2019 - 04:38 AM UTC
Looking impressive, D.!

It seems to be a misalignment pandemic All the models I finished this year carried such issues, safe for the Revell's big rig. Event the Porsche from Tamiya had its issues, letting alone the New Beetle which is just short of catastrophic!

Looking forward to seeing how you'll tackle the bonnet fit problem.

Gabriel
RussellE
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Posted: Monday, July 15, 2019 - 09:26 AM UTC
Stunning stuff Damian!
AussieReg
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Posted: Monday, August 19, 2019 - 01:10 AM UTC
Sometimes you need to take a few decent strides backwards in order to see the path forward, and tonight was one of those nights. I really want to get the stock '36 completed prior to the start of October so that I can focus on the custom '36 for the Group Build. I sat down tonight and played around with the front end and came to the conclusion that there was no way to easily work it into place for a neat fit with the whole piece able to be lifted off.

Nothing else for it but to take those strides backwards and go into destructo mode and rebuild. The radiator and water reservoir came out, and the side panels and grille were removed from the hood.



There is just no way that the hood can pull back to a neat fit over the firewall without reworking the grille frame and shimming it out to remove the gaps circled in red.




I set about scraping off the CA and reshaping the grille mount to get a better angle, I will leave it for a day to fully cure and then set up the grille and hood for a tight fit. Once that is done I will work on the side panels to get them to fit into place, and lastly refit the radiator and water reservoir.



Frustrating but still enjoyable, the problem solving aspect of these car kits is something that doesn't bother me too much. If anything, forewarned is forearmed and this should stand me in a good position for the custom build.

Cheers, D
Joel_W
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Posted: Monday, August 19, 2019 - 02:25 AM UTC
D,
All I can say is that you're a way braver man then I. I'd be scared that I'd damage or break parts trying to get them off.

Looking forward to seeing how you solve the removal hood issue.

Joel
RussellE
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Posted: Monday, August 19, 2019 - 09:48 AM UTC
Fixing these kind of molding deficiencies seems to be the norm on car kits, D. Nevertheless, your method of correction is superb!
Szmann
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Posted: Monday, August 19, 2019 - 11:35 PM UTC
D., It is good to see some progress here. You're a bad case of AMS, as well

Cheers!
Gabriel
Stickframe
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Posted: Tuesday, August 20, 2019 - 02:28 PM UTC
Hi D,

Man - you’ve had some headaches with gaps lately! That said, you did a great job fixing the gap in your Corvette trunk - my guess is if anybody can fix the gap, you can!

Cheers
Nick
southpier
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Posted: Wednesday, August 21, 2019 - 01:32 AM UTC
great project; following along now.

Q: when the wire looms for the spark plug wires were bent, how did you keep them from kinking?

thanks
AussieReg
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Posted: Friday, August 23, 2019 - 10:29 PM UTC

Quoted Text

great project; following along now.

Q: when the wire looms for the spark plug wires were bent, how did you keep them from kinking?

thanks



Thanks for checking in, your support is much appreciated.

The styrene rod was dipped in hot (almost boiling) water for a few seconds, and bent slowly into a radius around a handle of the diameter I wanted. I taped it into place while it cooled and it held its radius nicely.

Hope this helps.

Cheers, D
southpier
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Posted: Saturday, August 24, 2019 - 04:20 AM UTC
yes; thanks. I've made the mistake of bending styrene tight and then touching it with Tamiya thin - snap!
RussellE
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Posted: Sunday, August 25, 2019 - 06:23 PM UTC
I'd forgotten the "hot water" method to bend styrene!

Will come in handy when I go to make up the exhausts for the Trans Am
AussieReg
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Posted: Friday, September 27, 2019 - 11:58 AM UTC
Time to bump this thread back up the list with the Blue Oval Group Build starting in a couple of days, the third kit in this display will be my entry there as well as for the inaugural "Transatlantic Cars Contest" HERE .

My aim is to focus on getting this complete display completed for the end of the Blue Oval Group Build, but you guys know how easily I get distracted

Cheers, D
M4A1Sherman
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Posted: Friday, September 27, 2019 - 12:28 PM UTC

Quoted Text

Will you still need me, will you still feed me, when I’m 64?



Time to tell the story of a 1936 Ford 5-window Coupe. Purchased new off the lot, $555 handed over to the car salesman, Joe and Mary proudly drove their pride and joy back to the farm. For 20 years they drove it to town, to church on Sunday, even to the “big smoke” from time to time, until the day that the engine started rattling, it started blowing smoke, and Joe had to put it off the road. It was towed around behind the barn and covered up, with the intention of pulling the old engine down at some stage to fix her up.



Years passed and it never happened. The cover deteriorated, the cancer of rust set in, the kids and grandkids started out by climbing over it and inside it, then started pulling parts off it, and even using it for target practice with the old pea-rifle. The glass disappeared, the fabric inside rotted away, grass and shrubs grew up around it and it faded from memory hidden behind the barn.


For almost 30 long years it sat, chickens and mice nesting in it, cattle and horses rubbing up against it, paint virtually all gone, metal parts being eaten away, until the day grandson Joe Jr was at the farm and asked Grandpa Joe what he wanted to do with the old wreck out behind the barn. He was starting a mechanics apprenticeship and was thinking about finding an old shell to tinker with and restore.
Together they cleared the build up of debris, dragged the ’36 onto the back of the truck, gathered up the parts that they could find strewn around the place, and took it into town to it’s new home in the workshop.



15 years of tinkering and learning, cutting and welding, removing, cleaning up and replacing parts, searching through wreckers yards and swap meets, agonising over interior fabric and body paint colours, then came the day that Joe Jr could drive it out of the workshop and out to the farm to take Grandpa Joe for a ride in the car he bought new off the lot 64 years ago.



That is the story I want to tell here. I’ve had one of these kits in the stash for years, and the “Blue Oval” group Build was going to give me the motivation to finally build it, then up popped 2 more kits on a buy/swap/sell site with minor starts and parts missing, very cheap as the sellers just wanted them gone from the to-do pile. I didn’t need much contemplation time, I could clearly see a great little display in the making here with a clean original on one side, a rodded-up version on the other, and a rusted shell vignette right in the middle. They are simple kits with a low parts count, and test-fitting at this stage shows no real issues, so I am looking forward to putting some focus on this project once I get a Chevy (or two) off the bench.



Cheers, D



Hi, Damian!

Oh, HO, HO, YEAH!!! EXCELLENT!!!
md72
#439
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Posted: Friday, September 27, 2019 - 02:38 PM UTC
Wow D, looks good, Hope you finish B4 Blue Oval.
Joel_W
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Posted: Saturday, September 28, 2019 - 01:08 AM UTC
D,
Just a great tail, one that I really enjoyed. The only thing that would be better if Joe jr. was in reality you

Looking forward to following your builds in the GB. This is going to be the best one ever to date here in AutoModeler.

Joel
Merlin
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AEROSCALE
#017
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Posted: Saturday, September 28, 2019 - 07:39 AM UTC
Hi Damian

WOW! Apologies for being SO late in clocking your heavily weathered build tucked in here! It's simply fantastic!

You really should single it out and do a weathering Feature for the front-page based around it.

All the best

Rowan
AussieReg
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#007
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Posted: Saturday, September 28, 2019 - 03:39 PM UTC
I am honestly humbled by your replies guys. I am fumbling my way along here trying out some products and techniques that are new for me, but taking my time to learn and enjoy the process, so I am really pleased that the results are so good to this point.

I’m really excited to get the third kit on to the bench and also firming up the plan for the display.

This project (plus the Orion) will be my focus until completed now. It will be strange, and vaguely wrong, not having a Bowtie build on the bench.

Cheers, D