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Really fast Ford F150
Stickframe
#362
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California, United States
Joined: December 01, 2013
KitMaker: 1,481 posts
Auto Modeler: 262 posts
Posted: Wednesday, January 15, 2020 - 08:46 AM UTC
Hello model builders,

I've jumped right into this one. It's a Ford F150 hill climb/street racer. I was going to do this for the race track group build but decided I wanted to go for it, so that's what I did.

The idea is based on this truck:







It's a 1977 F150 body on a race car chassis - the engine turns out 900 hp. It's evidently used for both drifting and hill climb competitions - I have no idea if it's been raced at Pike's Peak. It looks cool where it has been run:











The pics above are screen shots from a video showing it in use in China.

Yes - this truck caught my eye. Some of you might have seen the various off road race trucks I've built, which feature lots of body and suspension work, but those modifications are intended to maximize suspension/wheel travel while keeping the center of gravity low (yet high enough to run in open desert) and reducing weight.

The fast F150 clearly has lots of modifications to the same parts, except, there is practically no vertical suspension travel and the truck body sits very low to the ground.

Ok, on to the build - first up, the rear end, which in real life is independent, with an asymmetric differential, located on the right side. The driveshaft is a rod, and not a tube. I have no explanation for either. Mine too is asymmetric, using a 9" Ford rear end:





As you can see above, I set up a little template/jig to get the alignment/asymmetry correct. This module is fairly complicated. It's fixed to the chassis - via lower box frame and integration with the chassis/cage on top. In between it some complex geometry. All things considered, mine is close but not exact.







Piece of cake! happy sunny days the whole time! Haha! not quite - this was a real head scratcher to conceptualize and build.

Next up the engine with those twin turbos. This invited some big questions, like what exactly is going on there? how will I at least fake something that is reasonably convincing? and how can I: get the frame/chassis as low to the ground as I can, and keep those turbos as high as possible so they'll stick out above the hood?

Need to start somewhere, so, using odds and ends from various kits and the parts box, build an engine that looks about right and set into some chassis tubes:



Wow!! looks perfect.....then advance the chassis a bit more:



Looking great - just for fun, drop the body on and, discover those turbos are sitting well below the hood. Not perfect. Crap.

So, take the engine out, rework the oil pan - vertical, rather than horizontal (this is more of a visual than practical decision), raise the engine/transmission on their mounts and:



And, now the engine sits higher on the chassis, probably just over 1/4", which I know sounds small but it makes a difference.



As this is not a kit per se, it requires you to solve problems as you go, while trying to achieve the design. As you can see above, there's a lot going on up front. I'd like to have raised the engine some more, but that would create some weird looking geometry on the chassis and suspension. I mention this because while not functional suspension, if this is flimsy or not rational, just like a real car, it won't stay rigid.

A bit more progress on the cab, and front and rear ends solidly in place:



Meanwhile, I didn't forget about the challenges with the body. I've built highly modified truck bodies before, but the changes were about creating cavernous, streamlined spaces for very large diameter (37.5") off road tires. In this case, while bulging, the fenders are quite tight around the tire opening, have a flush/flat edge concentric to the tire, and are pretty curvy around the non-curvy F150 body. So, this is what I did:



Unlike the off road racer flares, which have lots of modifications to the fender walls, for this I focus on the fender opening and projected top line of the flare. I did some heavy cutting inside the well to fit the giant tires, then over cut that to allow for adding new fender material (like on the rear cowling of the 908/3). That's .25 dia rod, running along top, which servers as a seat and gluing surface for .10 card above:



I'll say pretty good - you see the green putty because I laminated several sheets to make the radial, flush fascia and you could see gaps - no more.

Then back to the chassis - this needs the cross members for a variety of reasons: the real car has a complex truss/web, and without this bracing, this would be one flimsy model - as the front and rear parts are heavy. Adding more detail to the front and styrene everywhere:





Along the way, lots and lots of dry fitting, and now, it's looking legit as a rolling chassis that sits flat:





Yes - I "needed" to actually make the driveline/transmission legit - there's a propeller shaft w/front and rear universals from the tranny to chain or gear drive (like a transfer case) then the drive "rod" also w/ u joints. As noted earlier, I have no idea why this is off-set on the real truck, or, why they use a rod and not tube for the driveshaft, but they do, so did I.

and how it sits:



and with the body sort of floating on the chassis and tires:






I'm pretty happy with some of the individual results and the build as a whole, but, those turbos still don't sit high enough @!@!@! I will add more of something over the intake manifold - it has to sit above the hood. But the turbos, are what they are.

So, thanks for having a look - I'll keep cutting and adding.

Cheers

Nick











AussieReg
Staff MemberAssociate Editor
AUTOMODELER
#007
_VISITCOMMUNITY
Victoria, Australia
Joined: June 09, 2009
KitMaker: 7,013 posts
Auto Modeler: 2,127 posts
Posted: Wednesday, January 15, 2020 - 09:56 AM UTC
Nick, I am speechless (well, almost)!

That is INSANE

Cheers, D
Cosimodo
#335
_VISITCOMMUNITY
Auckland, New Zealand
Joined: September 03, 2013
KitMaker: 1,432 posts
Auto Modeler: 359 posts
Posted: Wednesday, January 15, 2020 - 11:50 AM UTC
Bloody hell! That's amazing demonstration of scratch building and understanding of race car engineering Nick.

cheers
Michael
Dixon66
_VISITCOMMUNITY
New Hampshire, United States
Joined: December 12, 2002
KitMaker: 1,045 posts
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Posted: Wednesday, January 15, 2020 - 01:41 PM UTC
OMG.
Joel_W
Staff MemberAssociate Editor
AUTOMODELER
_VISITCOMMUNITY
New York, United States
Joined: December 04, 2010
KitMaker: 10,661 posts
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Posted: Friday, January 17, 2020 - 09:47 AM UTC
Nick,
I decided to hold off posting till I re-read your build to date blog again. And once again while Damian is almost speechless, I am.

OMG!! plain and simple. Your build is at a level that I've rarely seen. It's complex, it's more then realistic, as it's basically a scaled copy of the real truck.

I followed most of what you've said, but I also got lost at times as well. The rear end and suspension is really something special especially with the offset driveline, as it the engine with the twin turbos. Not an easy thing to replicate by any means. I've seen way to many kits fall far short when trying to replicate those parts.

The chassis concept and construction not only looks great, but you've managed to also solve the rigidity problems. With the dry fit of the cab with those massive flared fenders, I'd say you're right on your game.

The entire concept is alien to me, but you more then know your way around that truck for sure.

These days I'm more of a OOB enhanced builder, and no where near your building level. But I sure still can appreciate what you've done, and the effort and skills it took to get there.

Joel
165thspc
#0
_VISITCOMMUNITY
Kentucky, United States
Joined: April 13, 2011
KitMaker: 9,117 posts
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Posted: Saturday, January 18, 2020 - 04:28 AM UTC
Wonder why they chose the off-set right differential? With that lite weight rear construction the diff is the heaviest thing back there. Seems like they would want it in the middle for better road handling balance.

Looks to be a right hand drive vehicle so the right side off-set differential is not intended to balance the weight of the driver.

No clue on that off-set "chain drive' transfer case???? Looks like a 1 : 1 ratio device and not a step up or step down unit.

If this were NASCAR they might even want the differential off-set to the left????
AussieReg
Staff MemberAssociate Editor
AUTOMODELER
#007
_VISITCOMMUNITY
Victoria, Australia
Joined: June 09, 2009
KitMaker: 7,013 posts
Auto Modeler: 2,127 posts
Posted: Wednesday, January 22, 2020 - 09:21 AM UTC
I posted this link in the "Strip, Track and Trail" thread a while back, for those who haven't seen it, strap in and HOLD ON!!

Cheers, D
RussellE
#306
_VISITCOMMUNITY
Victoria, Australia
Joined: June 27, 2010
KitMaker: 3,386 posts
Auto Modeler: 380 posts
Posted: Thursday, January 23, 2020 - 08:35 AM UTC
Holy moley, and wow!

Love watching these kit bash/scratch builds!

Great job so far Nick!
Stickframe
#362
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California, United States
Joined: December 01, 2013
KitMaker: 1,481 posts
Auto Modeler: 262 posts
Posted: Wednesday, January 29, 2020 - 08:54 AM UTC
Hello fellow model builders,

I'm glad this odd build is well received! Honestly, I'm not much of drifting/street racing etc enthusiast - but I am an enthusiast of interesting high performance cars and am a confirmed truck nut, so this seems to be an ideal project.

Damian, Michael, and David - thanks for the enthusiasm! certainly helps when plodding along...adding more and more bits!

Joel, yes - you hit it on the head - the styrene tubing - as is, is pretty flimsy, but, if you make a truss, it can be pretty stable (like real tubing), but, you can't stop, if you miss a leg or two of the webbing, it won't stay rigid.

Michael - aha! I'm not surprised you chimed in, thanks - yes, chain or gear drive, my bet is it is 1:1 and no reduction etc and is just used to ensure perpendicular U-Joints - as to why the rearend is off-set? still no idea, even after the revelation I mention below.

Russell, thanks for dropping a note - to your point, the world of scratch and kitbash construction, you need to stick with the "so far so good attitude". As I'm basing this on Inet pictures and intuition, well, design build and keep doing it!

OK, on we go:

As a result of my parochial younger years...high school, I feel compelled to tell the truth! especially on important things, like model building! I found out this truck is all wheel drive. I decided to READ one of the stories about it and not just look at the pictures, well crap.

I came fairly close to converting my model from two to all wheel drive - "all you would need to do is...." yeah - no thanks - it could indeed be done - you might remember from the last post, where I converted the oil pan and made it taller. There's ample room for a front diff and shafts, and because I already made the transmission/driveshaft off-set gear box, I could attach said diff (yes, I looked up the modern configuration for Ford AWD rally cars - it's not that complex in terms of building a model) and then, like a message from above, a bold rush of "what on earth are you thinking??!!!" hit me like a tsunami! Get a grip man - lol - so -now you know the truth - and I'm still building as I started- in fact, almost done building:











Above, you can see progress on the chassis. I'm progressively adding elements. Almost all of the add-ons etc are junkbox recovery or scratch built, like the dual brake cylinder - just aluminum and styrene tubing and some wire.

I included the last picture just to compare - both Ford F150s, with around 900 hp - yet, one has 36" of vertical travel in the rear and 30" in the front - the off-road racer looks like the "Death Star" in comparison - ok, on to some body work:





Above, tried as I might, I just couldn't figure out how to get the turbos to stick out above the hood! As you can see - they already consist of resin parts from two different turbos, styrene, various types of metal rod an tubing - nope, I'll live with it as is. I was a bit more successful in creating the elevated, dual injector rack, which just peeks out above the hood.







I'm still adding bits and pieces, but this is getting close to going to the paint shop -

thanks for checking it out -

Nick




RussellE
#306
_VISITCOMMUNITY
Victoria, Australia
Joined: June 27, 2010
KitMaker: 3,386 posts
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Posted: Thursday, January 30, 2020 - 08:58 AM UTC
AWD or RWD, gosh I don't think it detracts from the model at all Nick, and I reckon you've made the correct choice keeping it so!

Just amazed at what you've been able to create. No-one's gonna notice the turbos don't protrude above the bonnet. Mostly they're just gonna be in awe of what you've built, not just once, but twice (and probably more).

Can't wait to see some paint go on!

PS That black dune buggy looks like something Batman himself would be proud to get around in...
Joel_W
Staff MemberAssociate Editor
AUTOMODELER
_VISITCOMMUNITY
New York, United States
Joined: December 04, 2010
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Posted: Friday, January 31, 2020 - 02:07 AM UTC
Nick,
I just had to re-read from the start to where you are now. I'm more impressed now after the 3rd read as I focused in on certain aspects that I just skimmed over before.

Your scratch building/detailing, especially the suspension, engine, and drive train really sets your build apart from so many others I've seen in my modeling journeys. The main take away for me is that what you've built looks and has the feel of what the real truck looks like. Everything you've done seems to have a real purpose and is basically in scale, which the smaller the scale, the harder it is to accomplish that.

The body modifications really will be the icing on the "cake" for sure. And I'm really looking forward to how you deal with that complex paint scheme since the real life one must be a wrap.

Joel
Stickframe
#362
_VISITCOMMUNITY
California, United States
Joined: December 01, 2013
KitMaker: 1,481 posts
Auto Modeler: 262 posts
Posted: Monday, February 03, 2020 - 04:50 AM UTC
Hi Russell and Joel,

Thank for the positive words! I cooked up a scheme for realizing the various sponsor decals, and have a concept for painting. That said, I now find that I need to address some non-model building challenges, so I probably won’t be able to get back to this project for a while. So, happy model building and one day I hope to be back with my unconventional builds!

Happy model building,

Cheers
Nick
RussellE
#306
_VISITCOMMUNITY
Victoria, Australia
Joined: June 27, 2010
KitMaker: 3,386 posts
Auto Modeler: 380 posts
Posted: Monday, February 03, 2020 - 08:20 AM UTC
yes, please don't leave us waiting too long for closure on this one Nick
Joel_W
Staff MemberAssociate Editor
AUTOMODELER
_VISITCOMMUNITY
New York, United States
Joined: December 04, 2010
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Posted: Monday, February 03, 2020 - 09:14 AM UTC
Nick,
Sure do hope that all is well, and you've just got other more important things to do now.

Like Russell said, we're all looking forward to your return with the finished truck, and of course a new adventure in modeling.

Joel
AussieReg
Staff MemberAssociate Editor
AUTOMODELER
#007
_VISITCOMMUNITY
Victoria, Australia
Joined: June 09, 2009
KitMaker: 7,013 posts
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Posted: Monday, February 03, 2020 - 10:35 AM UTC

Quoted Text

I now find that I need to address some non-model building challenges, so I probably won’t be able to get back to this project for a while. So, happy model building and one day I hope to be back with my unconventional builds!



We will be here when you get back Nick, keenly looking forward to the next chapter!

Stay safe and well.

Cheers, D