Hey guys, this is my 1st auto build and 1st blog here for this huge kit build on commission. I was pretty excited when asked to build this kit, something totally different from what I'm used to (military and sci-fi modeler by heart).

It was a real tough time getting my mind set into the auto-world.. so with research via the internet and the supplied reference book "Formula Perfect Manual Series Vol 2" by my client I spent many many hours the past months scratch building and figuring out as much details I could add to the kit.

Since I have a lack of knowledge for the names of the components which make up a car...I will mostly include photos instead of words..

I used various hexagon and round plastic rods form Plastruct and Evergreen. The Hex rods were mostly used for the connectors for the tubings.

Various brass, copper and other wires for tubing and wiring, as well as vinyl tubing from the kit and electrical tubing I had in the spares box.

AM decals are from Tabu Design for Good year and Marlboro. Composite Fibre decals are from Scale Motorsports- Carbon Fibre Twill Weave, Plain Weave and Carbon Kevlar Plain Weave--All 1/20 scale. Other modelers seem to use even larger scales as well, but the photos from the reference book seem to depict smaller ones--Although I couldn't make out the larger patterns which are indeed supposed to be used for the chasis..oh well.. I'll stick to size I have and see how it goes..

I'm actually done with this kit short of some detail painting, adding the tubings and small parts and all decals. I've already spray painted the Pure white colors for the body and other parts with Tamiya TS-26. A ton of wet sanding was done between coats. Next the flourescent red will follow, then futher gloss coat with future floor polish, then decals, then future again..

For now, here's what I've done.



oil reservior 1st and 2nd attempt. Added hex "nuts" weld line, etc



Monocoque details, drilled out holes to secure tubing and wirings, bolts, body mounting points,etc. The paint must be touched up.



Radiator ducting/housing.


Engine


1st attempt I hated the paint job...so stripped it with mr muscle and 2nd attempt...added "butterfly"? clips, drilled holes for wiring,etc..



Engine's electrical wiring, connectors,etc...a very difficult scratch build..not because it was hard--but because it's fragile as I was using 0.3mm plastic rod from Plastruct and bending them to shape so that they would fit into the holes later, gluing them to each other and then securing them to the "tube" was a task! But I'm pretty happy with this scratch build.

The clips to secure the wiring


More scratch-works


The small bolts added and the evident hex and round rods used to simulate the connectors--holes were drilled into them to secure the wires..The wires were bend to shape exactly where they should be so that I can paint them then place them onto the locations without risk of the paint cracking--if I had to bend and adjust them again..



Scrutinize and you can see that I used super glue gel to cover up the wiring closes to the rectangular box--to simulate they are in a tubing of sort. I used tamiya masking tape for other simulation of "tubes" and such.


Wiring already bend to fit both points..these will be a challenge to secure once they are painted..


Again hex and round rod were essential..


I need to "wrap" up these tubing with tape later..


Added some hex "bolts" only...not shown in photo


Added the little details as in reference photos.. Need another coat of chrome then weathering...hope I don't mess it up...

More photos soon...

Very nice work on your McLaren the details look great i will be following your build with interest.

Pretty amazing stuff Nick. Love all those details.

Thanks guys, I've already did most of the painting...I'm in process of putting the painted parts together-particularly the engine. I should be tackling the carbon fibre decals in a couple of days. So I hope to put most of everything together and wrap up 90% of the build by next weekend.

First car?
Looking good.
If the engine is so detailled, what is the rest gonna be?
Can't wait to see the rest.

Erikssson.

Absolutly superb, Wouldn't mind seeing a write up of the build. Looking really good keep posting
Bob

Very cool keep up the awsome work.
Sheldon

Sorry for the late update... It's almost done..Just some touch ups and gloss coats for the "interior" components..
I had actually almost completed the Pure white and Flourescent Red painting of the "shell" but the tamiya masking tape lifted at two edges during the red spraying and there was overspray onto the White---I had to sand off and start masking all over again ! This cost me around two months of delays..as it take so darn long for the tamiya spray can paints to dry and there so so many raining days!! Besides that the second can of Red I bought sprayed out thick spots And I had shook that can long enough before spraying ...!

OK enough cursing so here's some pics....I will post better pics before final assemble.
Note that the engine parts aren't secured yet..
I have to say that application of the carbon fibre onto the curved areas were hell!! A hairdryer , Microscale setting solution and a ton of patience was totally required!

Great to see an update on your MP4/6. Love the super detailed work your creating here.

Thanks Jesper... here's more pics..

Did most of the carbon fibre decals...quite an experience!
I finished alot of assembly, carefully putting the parts together and adding more tubing here and there.. more pics will follow again.

Let me know your opinions and comments.

Wow! i love all of the details you put into the mclaren Nick.

Hunter

Thanks Hunter.. BTW love that band!

SO guys, what's up? No comments, despite all those pics!!?? Come'on I need motivation

But seriously, more pics coming soooooon of the assembled components.
One word of mention--I'll stick to airbrushing instead of using Tamiya paints as far as possible! A heads up to you guys. I went through a 2nd can of TS-36 with sh*t results-- no matter what I did, swirl,shake, warm water heat up, change nozzle--the paint sprayed a nice blotchy pattern on my weeks of sanding and polishing!!! Had to go back and spray all over again!

FINALLY COMPLETED MY CLIENTS MCLAREN!!!!!!!!!!!!!

I went for Zero paints and they are perfect!!! Reasonably priced for such a great product but cost my client $30 shipping alone to Singapore!

I used their White primer/micro filler, Pure white, and MP4 Mclaren red, finished up with their 2K clear paints.
I used future floor polish to coat over the carbon fibre-because the under coat was vallejo black instead of zero's paint.. The trouble with changing paints during the process is you're going to do more work masking and all that!

Anyone wanting to build this car to a smiliar level of detail---Plan well and go get compatible paints ..Go get the AM parts, electrical connectors, hoses,etc..Forget about scratch building as it's going to be very nerve wrecking during the paint process and especially the assembly!
Another thing to remember is that you'll have to do some sanding before painting to prevent the paint scraping during assemble and disassembly of the cowling-- as the 2K clear is thick! Also, the gloss coat would be much better if my airbrushed had been serviced before hand..the spray was not as smooth as it should have been so I had to do some polishing..
An even btter finished could be done with Aclad paints for the exhaust and other areas..

Great finish outstanding work all around i am shore the client will be very pleased with the model. What will you build next.

Superb work! I agree with you about Zero paints, i've used them once for their Gulf Blue- the Zero colour is the only really good match for that colour.

Andrew

what an amazing model, you truly are skilled

Thanks guys!

Well I would like to build some other large scale F1 car... but it's not going to happen unless I get commissioned to.. ..

Outstanding piece of work Nick. I have no doubt, you have a client with a big smile on his face.

Yup he was happy..but the car was completed after the dateline (bad luck with tamiya spray can) He'll have a bigger smile when I complete his Enterprise carrier...

Thanks!

She's beautiful Nick! Go McLaren!

Matt

Thanks Matt,

like I said earlier...I need an excuse to build something else like this..if not, she may be the only AUTO build for a long while.......

AngryDog,

This is amazing and inspiring. I have a question for you as a novice modeler. I read that you applied future before and after decaling the beast, how did you get such a nice top coat?? Did you sand the future with high grit? used another form of clear coat? I am trying to replicate the same finish because the future just isnt prefectly glossy, or am I just doing it all wrong?? any help is greatly appreciated! thaks

Thanks Alex.

Most importantly the surface where any gloss coat is required--must be smooth..smoother the surface, including the primer, the smoother the finish. Wet sand with 1000 upwards. Even better if you submerge the part in water while you do so!.

I applied Future to mostly the components where carbon fibre decals are required. I wet sand all the gloss coats to remove any dust specs,etc, gloss coat again. Then after applying decals and left to dry I gave a couple gloss coats more to finish it off.

Future is thin as compared to enamels and lacquers so multiple coats of future is needed for a high gloss finish as long as you are thinning it. I thin Future because my airbrushing skills suck, but I read many others use it straight out of the bottle.


I used Zero 2K clear coat for all the "White and Red" parts. Submerged in water and wet sand (with micro-mesh) to remove any dust specs here and there.
If your equipment is set up right, then you can spray 2K clear coat without need for any wet sanding, it will dry to a very smooth and very high gloss finish. These are the best clear coat system I experienced.