Daily Beater Dodge Monaco
New York, United States
Joined: December 07, 2004
KitMaker: 1,888 posts
Auto Modeler: 806 posts
Posted: Thursday, April 02, 2009 - 03:21 PM UTC

Well i thought i would start the beater build off with this old AMT kit of the Joker goon car/ 1977 Dodge Monaco it should be perfect for this build because it's a 4 door and it's ugly, the pic isn't great but i have already added some rust holes and cut out the drivers door and added some framing for the door to sit in. The other kit is being used as a donor for the chassis, suspension and engine because the detail is much better. I will take a few better pics in a couple of days of the rust and body damage and the work on the door. i hope we get a few people to join in.
Myanmar
Joined: March 05, 2004
KitMaker: 4,011 posts
Auto Modeler: 851 posts
Posted: Thursday, April 02, 2009 - 03:57 PM UTC
Nice! This will be interesting. I already see the "rust holes" in this picture. Subscribed.
I'll be be in this one soon.
i watched a scale plastic figure crawl along the edge . . . of an exacto blade . . . that's my dream , it's my nightmare . . . . . . . crawling , slithering . . . . . along the edge . . . . . . of an exacto . . . . . blade . . . . and surviving
Kobenhavn, Denmark
Joined: June 29, 2004
KitMaker: 6,760 posts
Auto Modeler: 2,182 posts
Posted: Thursday, April 02, 2009 - 11:03 PM UTC
A perfect choice for a daily beater. Looking forward to seeing it evolve.
On the workbench:
MPC: 1972 Pontiac GTO
Revell: 1965 Mustang
Verlinden 120mm guard of the marine.
Revell: 2010 Camaro
Monogram: 1931 Rolls Royce
Italeri: LVT2 Amtrac
Ontario, Canada
Joined: December 09, 2007
KitMaker: 164 posts
Auto Modeler: 32 posts
Posted: Sunday, April 05, 2009 - 11:57 AM UTC
I was actually thinking of picking up this kit and making an oldddd NYPD car out of it. How's the quality of the kit? It's AMT so I'm assuming it's pretty good.
New York, United States
Joined: December 07, 2004
KitMaker: 1,888 posts
Auto Modeler: 806 posts
Posted: Thursday, April 09, 2009 - 02:26 PM UTC
Guatemala
Joined: April 12, 2005
KitMaker: 343 posts
Auto Modeler: 1 posts
Posted: Thursday, April 09, 2009 - 03:12 PM UTC
Quoted Text
I was actually thinking of picking up this kit and making an oldddd NYPD car out of it. How's the quality of the kit? It's AMT so I'm assuming it's pretty good.
I have the same kit, and will make it into a NYPD car also, I even have the decals; the kit is not up to modern AMT standard, but is ok, you can make a good model out of it. it has all the equipment to make it a patrol car, even has some weapons. the only thing that needs replacement are the roof ligths.
Happy Modeling
Byron
If you are not part of the solution, Don't be a part of the problem.
Myanmar
Joined: March 05, 2004
KitMaker: 4,011 posts
Auto Modeler: 851 posts
Posted: Thursday, April 09, 2009 - 03:37 PM UTC
What is your technique for cutting doors out?
What color and brand did you spray for the rust base color?
i watched a scale plastic figure crawl along the edge . . . of an exacto blade . . . that's my dream , it's my nightmare . . . . . . . crawling , slithering . . . . . along the edge . . . . . . of an exacto . . . . . blade . . . . and surviving
New York, United States
Joined: December 07, 2004
KitMaker: 1,888 posts
Auto Modeler: 806 posts
Posted: Friday, April 10, 2009 - 12:54 AM UTC
I used Testors Model Master rust and sprayed it with my airbrush, i used a seam scriber to cut the door out but you could use the back of an old Xacto knife blade, after cutting you have to check to make shore the gap between the door and sill isn't to large you may have to add plastic to the door as a filler.
New York, United States
Joined: December 07, 2004
KitMaker: 1,888 posts
Auto Modeler: 806 posts
Posted: Sunday, April 12, 2009 - 06:23 AM UTC
Myanmar
Joined: March 05, 2004
KitMaker: 4,011 posts
Auto Modeler: 851 posts
Posted: Sunday, April 12, 2009 - 08:09 AM UTC

wow awesome. That damaged front fender looks real.
i watched a scale plastic figure crawl along the edge . . . of an exacto blade . . . that's my dream , it's my nightmare . . . . . . . crawling , slithering . . . . . along the edge . . . . . . of an exacto . . . . . blade . . . . and surviving
New York, United States
Joined: December 07, 2004
KitMaker: 1,888 posts
Auto Modeler: 806 posts
Posted: Sunday, April 12, 2009 - 08:43 AM UTC
Thanks, at first i didn't like it now that i added the rust it looks a lot better, i still need to weather the bumpers as they are to clean.
Ohio, United States
Joined: January 28, 2008
KitMaker: 107 posts
Auto Modeler: 49 posts
Posted: Sunday, April 12, 2009 - 09:01 AM UTC
Quoted Text
Thanks, at first i didn't like it now that i added the rust it looks a lot better, i still need to weather the bumpers as they are to clean.
Robert, can you tell us how you made the dents and damage? Also, what do you see for weathering on the bumpers? If I remember, sometimes the chrome would "peel" on some of the older cars, but I can't remember if it did it on Chysler products. Probably, as in that era, everything rusted and fell apart much easier than today.
David
I still have hopes that the project will turn out good, I just need to remind myself the goal is to always enjoy the process, improve when and where I can, but understand that if I only accept perfection, I will be detracting from the reason I build to be
New York, United States
Joined: December 07, 2004
KitMaker: 1,888 posts
Auto Modeler: 806 posts
Posted: Sunday, April 12, 2009 - 02:55 PM UTC
I think for the bumpers i will give them a light gray wash as that will tone down the shine than i will use a rust all wash making the chrome peel might be difficult i will have to think about that for a while. The dent in the door was easy as the plastic was so thick i just shaved it down with a curved exacto blade, the front end damage took a bit more work i had to heat the plastic over my oven burner being very careful to soften the plastic with out melting it than i pressed the front area that was soft up against my window sill any blunt hard object would work. The rusted body was first sprayed model master rust than left to dry before 2 coats of hair spray were applied i let the hairspray dry before airbrushing the final white acrylic coat than you use an old paint brushed dipped in water and scrub the area you want the rust to show through and the paint just flakes off this method works great.
Ohio, United States
Joined: January 28, 2008
KitMaker: 107 posts
Auto Modeler: 49 posts
Posted: Sunday, April 12, 2009 - 03:02 PM UTC
Very nice indeed! You are teaching an old dog now! What does the hair spray do? Is it more like a clear coat only in matte finish? I have not heard of that being used before!
David
I still have hopes that the project will turn out good, I just need to remind myself the goal is to always enjoy the process, improve when and where I can, but understand that if I only accept perfection, I will be detracting from the reason I build to be
New York, United States
Joined: December 07, 2004
KitMaker: 1,888 posts
Auto Modeler: 806 posts
Posted: Monday, April 13, 2009 - 03:50 AM UTC
The hair spray is a sealer but not a very good one it can be washed off with soap and water, it's used for a sealer for your base coat and a barrier so the acrylic top coat will but not stick very good that's why it can be scrubbed off with an old paint brush and water give it a try it really does work.
Ohio, United States
Joined: January 28, 2008
KitMaker: 107 posts
Auto Modeler: 49 posts
Posted: Monday, April 13, 2009 - 05:45 AM UTC
Quoted Text
The hair spray is a sealer but not a very good one it can be washed off with soap and water, it's used for a sealer for your base coat and a barrier so the acrylic top coat will but not stick very good that's why it can be scrubbed off with an old paint brush and water give it a try it really does work.
Hey, thanks for that tip! I'll have to try it sometime when the situation warrants it!
David
I still have hopes that the project will turn out good, I just need to remind myself the goal is to always enjoy the process, improve when and where I can, but understand that if I only accept perfection, I will be detracting from the reason I build to be
Ontario, Canada
Joined: December 09, 2007
KitMaker: 164 posts
Auto Modeler: 32 posts
Posted: Monday, April 13, 2009 - 06:51 PM UTC
what era are you making yours? I'm using the old NYPD decals I got from my johan fury kit which I made into an LAPD car
Kobenhavn, Denmark
Joined: June 29, 2004
KitMaker: 6,760 posts
Auto Modeler: 2,182 posts
Posted: Monday, April 13, 2009 - 10:52 PM UTC
Looks great Robert. Your rust work is awesome.
On the workbench:
MPC: 1972 Pontiac GTO
Revell: 1965 Mustang
Verlinden 120mm guard of the marine.
Revell: 2010 Camaro
Monogram: 1931 Rolls Royce
Italeri: LVT2 Amtrac
New York, United States
Joined: December 07, 2004
KitMaker: 1,888 posts
Auto Modeler: 806 posts
Posted: Tuesday, April 14, 2009 - 04:26 AM UTC
Steve i believe my model depicts a car from the late 1990's that would make it about twenty years old and these late 1970's cars were very prone to rust damage it will not be a police car, Thanks Jesper, i am working on the engine and exhaust now so i can install the suspension and set the cars stance.
New York, United States
Joined: December 07, 2004
KitMaker: 1,888 posts
Auto Modeler: 806 posts
Posted: Monday, April 20, 2009 - 08:51 AM UTC
New York, United States
Joined: December 07, 2004
KitMaker: 1,888 posts
Auto Modeler: 806 posts
Posted: Thursday, April 30, 2009 - 12:39 PM UTC
Myanmar
Joined: March 05, 2004
KitMaker: 4,011 posts
Auto Modeler: 851 posts
Posted: Thursday, April 30, 2009 - 03:06 PM UTC
Ahhh this is awesome! The Dunkin Donuts box full. I thought this was not going to be a cop car.
BTW, how did you make that?
i watched a scale plastic figure crawl along the edge . . . of an exacto blade . . . that's my dream , it's my nightmare . . . . . . . crawling , slithering . . . . . along the edge . . . . . . of an exacto . . . . . blade . . . . and surviving
New York, United States
Joined: December 07, 2004
KitMaker: 1,888 posts
Auto Modeler: 806 posts
Posted: Friday, May 01, 2009 - 12:55 AM UTC
Thanks it was a fun build, ah the box of doughnuts was made from 3 separate pieces of ink jet paper so it would take the paint than folded and glued i went to their website to get the correct colors and logo which was hand painted, the doughnuts themselves were made from thick sheet plastic with a hole drilled in the middle than i used a file to make the shapes.
Akershus, Norway
Joined: November 02, 2008
KitMaker: 94 posts
Auto Modeler: 21 posts
Posted: Friday, May 01, 2009 - 02:55 AM UTC
I almost said this was a nice looking car.... But it's looking horrible!

(I mean that in the best sense of the word). Real craftmanship making a plastic model look like a old beater like this!
I'm really impressed! From the rust, to the doughnuts, to the ducttape holding the seats and dash together. It's all looking real good!
-Kjell
If it can't be modified, then what's the point?
New York, United States
Joined: December 07, 2004
KitMaker: 1,888 posts
Auto Modeler: 806 posts
Posted: Friday, May 01, 2009 - 09:50 AM UTC
Thanks kjell, i like building these beat up cars because you can be very creative and if you make a mistake it often looks better than what you first intended to do.