I know this has probably been asked before, but I can't find the threads.. and I have a couple of questions..
# Does any product that says on it "Oven Cleaner" work or is it a particular brand? Because here in Egypt we don't have the same brands that you have in the States.
# Do you just spray the parts and then wash them, or do you have to scrub them with a brush or something?
# After you spray them, do you have to leave them for a specific length of time?
Thanks in advance for any help.
Hisham
Go to automodeler.com for the current dynamic site!
Cars
Discuss all types of automotive modeling here.
Discuss all types of automotive modeling here.
Hosted by Jim Starkweather
Removing chrome plating??
Hisham
Joined: July 23, 2004
KitMaker: 6,856 posts
Auto Modeler: 50 posts
Posted: Friday, February 05, 2010 - 01:27 AM UTC
old-dragon
Joined: August 30, 2005
KitMaker: 3,289 posts
Auto Modeler: 1,620 posts
Posted: Friday, February 05, 2010 - 02:29 AM UTC
Hey, chief....sometimes we forget that the same things we have here aren't always available elsewhere...that said here's my input.
- Oven cleaners, go for the "fumeless" if you can since those fumes can be an issue. When applying let it set for a few hours and then try and remove it with an old tooth brush under some running water. If that isn't enough time, respray and try again letting it sit/soak longer.
- My best luck has been had with "castrol purple power" cleaner...10min and the chrome is gone. Any cheaper vairiant will work too but might take alittle longer to clear the chrome off...fumes aren't an issue. Simply running water over the part was enough to remove what wasn't already gone.
-"Simple green" automotive cleaner has worked too and might be available to you there..no fumes issues there either. I had to brush alittle to remove the chrome but not much.
I have a few lil brushes and old tooth brushes by the utility sink for my dechroming and paint stripping ventures. Try what you can find.
Hope this helped.
- Oven cleaners, go for the "fumeless" if you can since those fumes can be an issue. When applying let it set for a few hours and then try and remove it with an old tooth brush under some running water. If that isn't enough time, respray and try again letting it sit/soak longer.
- My best luck has been had with "castrol purple power" cleaner...10min and the chrome is gone. Any cheaper vairiant will work too but might take alittle longer to clear the chrome off...fumes aren't an issue. Simply running water over the part was enough to remove what wasn't already gone.
-"Simple green" automotive cleaner has worked too and might be available to you there..no fumes issues there either. I had to brush alittle to remove the chrome but not much.
I have a few lil brushes and old tooth brushes by the utility sink for my dechroming and paint stripping ventures. Try what you can find.
Hope this helped.
VonCuda
Joined: November 28, 2005
KitMaker: 2,216 posts
Auto Modeler: 522 posts
Posted: Friday, February 05, 2010 - 03:05 AM UTC
Hisham,
Like Bob, I also use Castrol Super Clean, sometimes called "purple power". I'm also fond of a product called Simple Green, does the same thing and is environmentally friendly.
My best advice on the oven cleaner is just to read the lable. If it says "do not use on plastic" then I'd stay away from it. As a further safety caution, you could use an old painted car or truck that you don't mind losing and use the cleaner on it to see if it harms the plastic. If it strips the paint and doesn't harm the plastic then you're good to go.
Any time I dechrome any part, I always leave it in a bowl of water for a few minutes. I use an old toothbrush to get the cleaner out of the tight places. After it's dry it's ready for paint. I've never had an issue with this method.
Hope that helped
Hermon
Like Bob, I also use Castrol Super Clean, sometimes called "purple power". I'm also fond of a product called Simple Green, does the same thing and is environmentally friendly.
My best advice on the oven cleaner is just to read the lable. If it says "do not use on plastic" then I'd stay away from it. As a further safety caution, you could use an old painted car or truck that you don't mind losing and use the cleaner on it to see if it harms the plastic. If it strips the paint and doesn't harm the plastic then you're good to go.
Any time I dechrome any part, I always leave it in a bowl of water for a few minutes. I use an old toothbrush to get the cleaner out of the tight places. After it's dry it's ready for paint. I've never had an issue with this method.
Hope that helped
Hermon
Yoni_Lev
Joined: September 20, 2007
KitMaker: 861 posts
Auto Modeler: 339 posts
Posted: Friday, February 05, 2010 - 05:26 AM UTC
I used to use bleach, mixed in a glass container with a little hot water, to strip chrome. I don't know if the kit manufacturers changed the way they apply chrome plating, but this method sometimes doesn't work as well - or at all - on newer chrome parts.
As for oven cleaner, I believe it's the lye that does the trick. By the same token, drain cleaner should work, but I've never tried it.
Another thought: brake fluid. I'm pretty sure basic brake fluid is the same in most parts of the world. It doesn't actually strip the chrome so much as it lifts the clear carrier underneath, causing the chrome to come off the plastic like a skin. It takes a while, too. I've had to soak parts for a few days to get all the bits off. The bonus is that the parts are completely bare afterwards, with no clear coating left on your bumpers, valve covers, etc..
Oh yes...always wash the parts with soap, and rinse well afterwards.
HTH.
-YL
As for oven cleaner, I believe it's the lye that does the trick. By the same token, drain cleaner should work, but I've never tried it.
Another thought: brake fluid. I'm pretty sure basic brake fluid is the same in most parts of the world. It doesn't actually strip the chrome so much as it lifts the clear carrier underneath, causing the chrome to come off the plastic like a skin. It takes a while, too. I've had to soak parts for a few days to get all the bits off. The bonus is that the parts are completely bare afterwards, with no clear coating left on your bumpers, valve covers, etc..
Oh yes...always wash the parts with soap, and rinse well afterwards.
HTH.
-YL
Uruk-Hai
Joined: January 31, 2003
KitMaker: 795 posts
Auto Modeler: 9 posts
Posted: Friday, February 05, 2010 - 06:19 AM UTC
I have used this many time with great results. The substance is available is drain cleaners.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sodium_hydroxide
Cheers
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sodium_hydroxide
Cheers
Hisham
Joined: July 23, 2004
KitMaker: 6,856 posts
Auto Modeler: 50 posts
Posted: Friday, February 05, 2010 - 06:30 AM UTC
Thanks a lot, guys.. you've all been extremely helpful. I'll look for products with "lye" in them.. and I'll also try the break fluid.. as that might be the easiest to find here.. and like Yoni said, I'm sure it's the same all over.
I have an old kit with some damaged parts which I'll never build.. so, I'll use the chrome parts for experimentation.
Thanks again
Hisham
I have an old kit with some damaged parts which I'll never build.. so, I'll use the chrome parts for experimentation.
Thanks again
Hisham
md72
#439
Joined: November 05, 2005
KitMaker: 4,950 posts
Auto Modeler: 555 posts
Posted: Friday, February 05, 2010 - 06:45 AM UTC
I don't know how dangerous they are, but I seem to recall people using tire cleaners, (Bleche-white was a US brand I've heard mentioned), or brake fluid.
Hope it helps.
Hope it helps.
Hisham
Joined: July 23, 2004
KitMaker: 6,856 posts
Auto Modeler: 50 posts
Posted: Friday, February 05, 2010 - 07:31 AM UTC
There's a brand of cleaner here used to clean ovens and greasy surfaces.. it's called "Mr. Muscle". It's liquid not spray. Anyone heard of this brand name?
Hisham
Hisham
Yoni_Lev
Joined: September 20, 2007
KitMaker: 861 posts
Auto Modeler: 339 posts
Posted: Friday, February 05, 2010 - 12:16 PM UTC
Quoted Text
There's a brand of cleaner here used to clean ovens and greasy surfaces.. it's called "Mr. Muscle". It's liquid not spray. Anyone heard of this brand name?
Yep. We have it here in the States, although I've only seen the oven cleaner in aerosol form available in stores. Restaurant supply houses usually carry the spray-on bottle type.
-YL
Snowhand
Joined: January 08, 2005
KitMaker: 1,066 posts
Auto Modeler: 234 posts
Posted: Friday, February 05, 2010 - 05:25 PM UTC
Mr Muscle is good to use. If it's the foamy one, just cover the sprue (or part) with it, allow it to do it's work for about 15 minutes, and rinse with water. You may have to use an old toothbrush for some hard to reach spots, but other than that, works like a charm 
Hisham
Joined: July 23, 2004
KitMaker: 6,856 posts
Auto Modeler: 50 posts
Posted: Friday, February 05, 2010 - 08:54 PM UTC
Unfortunately, we don't have regulations that force manufacturers to list all components of a product, so the bottle I have just says:
Ionic surfactants
Non-ionic surfactants
solvents
It's a liquid and the bottle is orange colored.
I guess I'll just have to go through a trial and error process. I'll just dip a piece in some of the liquid and see what happens after a couple of hours.
Thanks for your help
Hisham
Ionic surfactants
Non-ionic surfactants
solvents
It's a liquid and the bottle is orange colored.
I guess I'll just have to go through a trial and error process. I'll just dip a piece in some of the liquid and see what happens after a couple of hours.
Thanks for your help
Hisham
Hisham
Joined: July 23, 2004
KitMaker: 6,856 posts
Auto Modeler: 50 posts
Posted: Saturday, February 06, 2010 - 12:58 AM UTC
Just an update...
I used this Mr. Muscle liquid on a part from an old Fujimi car kit and it worked like a charm. 10 minutes and the chrome dissolved completely without having to wash it or scrub it.
But then I put a part from an Italeri truck model... and it did not work. It's been sitting in the liquid for the past hour or so and the chrome refuses to get off, even when I scrub it with a tooth brush. I don't know if ti's just a matter of time or what.. so I'll leave it in the liquid and see what happens after a few hours.
Wish me luck
Hisham
I used this Mr. Muscle liquid on a part from an old Fujimi car kit and it worked like a charm. 10 minutes and the chrome dissolved completely without having to wash it or scrub it.
But then I put a part from an Italeri truck model... and it did not work. It's been sitting in the liquid for the past hour or so and the chrome refuses to get off, even when I scrub it with a tooth brush. I don't know if ti's just a matter of time or what.. so I'll leave it in the liquid and see what happens after a few hours.
Wish me luck
Hisham
Yoni_Lev
Joined: September 20, 2007
KitMaker: 861 posts
Auto Modeler: 339 posts
Posted: Saturday, February 06, 2010 - 08:13 AM UTC
Quoted Text
Just an update...
I used this Mr. Muscle liquid on a part from an old Fujimi car kit and it worked like a charm. 10 minutes and the chrome dissolved completely without having to wash it or scrub it.
But then I put a part from an Italeri truck model... and it did not work. It's been sitting in the liquid for the past hour or so and the chrome refuses to get off, even when I scrub it with a tooth brush. I don't know if ti's just a matter of time or what.. so I'll leave it in the liquid and see what happens after a few hours.
Wish me luck
Hisham
Based on how easy - or hard - it is to remove chrome, I can't help but think that different manufacturers use different processes for their plating, and that it's also changed throughout the years.
I did some experimenting myself last night. I dropped a piece of chrome sprue from a mid-80s issue of an AMT '40 Ford kit in bleach, and the chrome was gone in 5 minutes. I had similar results with some Monogram chrome from a '78 or '79 vintage '57 Street Vette. It took longer for some Revell chrome issued in the early 1990s, but the bleach still did the job. Lindberg chrome from a somewhat recent '66 Chevelle didn't budge in bleach, but succumbed to Simple Green. Ditto with the chrome from Revell's recent '65 Chevy pickup. Aoshima chrome pieces from a miscellaneous motorcycle kit (unknown year) held onto the shiny stuff through both bleach and Simple Green, but didn't last in oven cleaner.
Not very scientific, but it just goes to show that one method doesn't work for all chrome, all of the time.
-YL
Red4
Joined: April 01, 2002
KitMaker: 4,287 posts
Auto Modeler: 76 posts
Posted: Thursday, February 11, 2010 - 01:59 AM UTC
I use Mr Plumber Gel and it works like a charm on all chrome I have tried. Have also used EZ Off oven cleaner. I found the trick with oven cleaner is to place the parts in a 1 gallon ziplock baggy, spray the parts thoroughly with oven cleaner, then seal the bag up. It prevents the stuff from evaporating, and keeps the nasty fumes at bay. When I am ready to clean the parts up, I simply run a little water into the bag to neutralize the cleaner, remove the parts and rinse them. I had thought of using brake fluid before, but the issue of what to do with it once I am done using it became a problem as I don't want to simply dump it down the drain or on the ground. As others have said, you may have to experiment to see what is going to work best for your situation. From the sound of it, the Mr. Muscle is working for you. Good luck. "Q"
Hisham
Joined: July 23, 2004
KitMaker: 6,856 posts
Auto Modeler: 50 posts
Posted: Saturday, February 13, 2010 - 11:04 AM UTC
Yes, Matthew, the Mr. Muscle is working with a different length of time depending on the make of the model... but it does get off eventually.
I have a related question, if I may... Is this the same stuff you would use to strip paint off of die cast models.. or is that a totally different thing?
Thank you
Hisham
I have a related question, if I may... Is this the same stuff you would use to strip paint off of die cast models.. or is that a totally different thing?
Thank you
Hisham
Yoni_Lev
Joined: September 20, 2007
KitMaker: 861 posts
Auto Modeler: 339 posts
Posted: Saturday, February 13, 2010 - 01:14 PM UTC
Quoted Text
. I had thought of using brake fluid before, but the issue of what to do with it once I am done using it became a problem as I don't want to simply dump it down the drain or on the ground.
When I use brake fluid, I just pour it back into the original container. I'll reuse it a few times over before it becomes ineffective at removing paint & chrome. A 1-pint bottle will last me a few months. Luckily, I have a automobile waste recycler in the area that takes used motor oil, brake fluid and the like, so I just drop it off there when I need to get rid of it.
BTW, good tip on the Ziploc baggie, Q.
If I'm stripping paint from a diecast, I just go to the local Home Depot or Lowe's and buy a gallon of chemical paint stripper. I dump it in a big Rubbermaid container (with a lid) and soak the parts in it. It's much quicker and more effective than brake fluid or oven cleaner, and I can soak about 3 or 4 model bodies (1:18) in the dunk tank before the stripper no longer works well. After pulling the parts out of the tank, I wipe them off with a soft rag, and clean them very well under warm running water with soap and a toothbrush.
The one downside of this method is that the chemical stripper is caustic, so you have to be careful and you really MUST wear skin and eye protection to prevent mishaps.
HTH.
-YL
Red4
Joined: April 01, 2002
KitMaker: 4,287 posts
Auto Modeler: 76 posts
Posted: Friday, April 02, 2010 - 01:58 AM UTC
Quoted Text
Yes, Matthew, the Mr. Muscle is working with a different length of time depending on the make of the model... but it does get off eventually.
I have a related question, if I may... Is this the same stuff you would use to strip paint off of die cast models.. or is that a totally different thing?
Thank you
Hisham
Sorry for the long wait on a reply...
For stripping diecast I will usually use a dedicated paint stripper, and barring that, I will use a media blasting cabinet which takes all the paint off all the way down to bare metal. My buddy has a 4' cabinet where I do this. My son in law paints cars for a living, so I repaint the cars the needed color, then send them out with him for clear coat and baking. Makes for a really nice durable finish.
"Q"
Steve_W
Joined: January 19, 2010
KitMaker: 44 posts
Auto Modeler: 14 posts
Posted: Friday, April 02, 2010 - 04:23 AM UTC
Quoted Text
I have used this many time with great results. The substance is available is drain cleaners.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sodium_hydroxide
Cheers
...aka Caustic Soda here in the UK and should be available in DIY stores as a cleaner for paint-work. Pretty strong stuf tho so rubber gloves & eye protection needed I think
straightedge
Joined: January 18, 2004
KitMaker: 1,352 posts
Auto Modeler: 100 posts
Posted: Monday, April 26, 2010 - 02:15 AM UTC
I just wrote a piece over in the paint section where I used plain old Clorox Bleach but it has to be fresh out of the bottle to remove the new chrome because after it has been left out in the air it loses it's ability to remove the chrome off the plastic but make sure you try it on some scrap sprue pieces before you try it on your good parts because all of these kits aren't made out of the same plastic, and this way only took a minute or two with no scrubing the chrome came off right before my eyes.
I hope this has been helpful.
I hope this has been helpful.
straightedge
Joined: January 18, 2004
KitMaker: 1,352 posts
Auto Modeler: 100 posts
Posted: Thursday, June 17, 2010 - 03:24 AM UTC
Now like they said after the bleech took off the chrome then I put some generic oven cleaner I bought to take off the shiny coat under the chrome and I don't know what I done wrong with the simple green but I took a whole bottle of green stuff and let my model soak in it all night but the paint was still there and I tried scrubbing and everything so I went back to the old generic oven cleaner and that took off the paint.
Now I got a gallon of this Castrol super clean here but I haven't tried it yet so I can't comment on it until I do.
Now I got a gallon of this Castrol super clean here but I haven't tried it yet so I can't comment on it until I do.
 |
WEB HOSTING BY
Copyright ©2021 Auto Modeler and Kitmaker Network, a subsidiary of Silver Star Enterprises
All Rights Reserved. Please read our Conditions of Use and Privacy Policy.
All Rights Reserved. Please read our Conditions of Use and Privacy Policy.