Hello all! I have decided to come back to the modelling world after a bit of an absence due to school (well, I'm still getting my Master's but that's another story!). I was able to pick up a NIB 1995 Mustang by AMT for a song, and have a few questions:
-My windshield was not protected in a bag like a majority of the parts, and unfortunately has some scratches. How should I go about in removing them?

-I've never done a glossy paint scheme (my primary modeling concentration has always been military) and would like to do one. Any suggestions?

-Would you recommend I remove the chroming already on the chromed parts and replace them with BareMetal Foil, or keep them as-is?

Thanks for your time!

Hi Matthew

Removing scratches, from clear plastic is not easy. Haven't tried it myself, but have read about modelers who have removed scratches with sandpaper and/or polishing compund. The sandpaper, of course, needs to be very fine(Grid 10000)some dunk the item in Future after polishing.

Painting: first of all, you need to prep the model far better than the average military model. Gloss paint will not hide any scratches or imperfections. Prime the model, check for imperfections. When shooting the color coat, first give it a mist(very light coat, that does not necessarily cover the primer) wait untill the paint is semi dry(Tacky) then shot another coat. 3-4 light coats is far better than one thick coat. Some make the final coat a wet coat. Making the final layer so thick the paint will level it self out, but not so thick it will start to run. This gives great results if you can handle it. I will suggest "many" light coats. Perhaps give it a rest after second coat and check for flaws. If you need to remove flaws, don't use any rubing compund between coats. Any residue can react with your paint.
Clearcoat the same way as with the color and polish when dry. I ussually wait a week, or more, before polishing. I use Meguiars scratch X and wax(Can't recall whitch one)

Using BMF or not really depends on what needs to be chromed. BMF is superb for various straightline chrome trim. BMF is not good for a 1950's bumper or grill, valve covers, alternator or similar stuff. Here Alclad II chrome will be the one to use.

Hope this is helpfull. Looking forward to seeing your shiny work.

Thank you very much! This should be very helpful. I'll put up some pictures when I get the chance!



(Also, I apologize for posting this in the muscle car thread; I wasn't paying attention to the time period for it.)

Welcome to the shiny side Matthew Jesper gave excellent advice as usual, so I'll just add a few more ideas.
Go through the instructions real well and assemble what can be done that gets a gloss coat, and to make sure all those body pieces are painted in one sitting. I've had good luck with Tamiya TS paints right out of the rattle can, and they dry fairly quick...dust is your enemy here! The Alclad chrome needs a black gloss coat to really shine, I prefer Tamiya TS-14 gloss black over Alclad's black enamel since it dries quicker and is easier to shoot.

Looking forward to seeing the 'Stang!

Good to know! Thank you very much! And I'm hoping to get a few pictures up soon!

Oops, should have clarified that the Alclad needs a gloss black base coat

That makes sense! Thank you again for your help!