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Question on Beemax models
wildbill426
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Posted: Sunday, February 24, 2019 - 06:23 AM UTC
I am currently building my first Beemax kit, their kit #1, a Toyota Celica rally car. I had a horrible experience with the decals; the protective cover on the sheet left a mottled finish, and the larger sections both took forever to release from the backing paper and split multiple times. I was able to save the finish by clearing over them, but what should have been the fun part of the build was torturous.
That being said, the rest of the build has been good; the parts are well engineered and fit well. But the decals were so bad, I don't know if I'll try another. I was under the impression that Beemax is relatively new so it shouldn't be that the decals were old; I bought the kit only a few months ago and it was sealed when I got it.
So what I'm asking is, has anyone else out there built a Beemax kit? If so, how was your experience with it, especially the decals? I'm trying to figure out if my experience was a one-off, or not.
Szmann
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Posted: Sunday, February 24, 2019 - 12:53 PM UTC
Bill, I've never built a Beemax, but from my experience with decals, it seems that your sheet took some excess moisture or the decal paper was old stock even before printing. Now I cannot say if this happened while into the box or before packing.
I had the same problem with a set of Cartograf decals in an Eduard set, and the Cartograf quality is well known...

Gabriel
Joel_W
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Posted: Wednesday, February 27, 2019 - 08:06 AM UTC
Bill,
I just saw your post about the Beewax decals, so I checked my only Beewax kit, and the decals are sealed in a plastic parts sleeve. And yes there is a protective wax type sheet covering the decals that most companies now use. If there is excess moisture, heat, or humidity, it can leave that mottle effect on the decals, which is just a wax type residue.

I've had that happen on several occasions from various manufactures and even AM decal sheets. The residue always starts to dissolve in the water, and what's left is easily removed with a damp Q-tip while the decal is still wet after setting it in place on the model.

As for the issue of time for the decal to loosen from the backing paper, that's caused by two factors:
1-The amount of glue that the was applied to the decal backing.
2-The temp of the water. Decals love warm water about 70f degrees.

If your water was on the cool side, it will take longer to loosen the decals, and the more glue, that process takes even longer.
Rather then just wait for the decal to loosen, try working on two decals at the same time, but at different stages of application.

Joel
wildbill426
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Posted: Friday, March 01, 2019 - 07:57 AM UTC
Joel, thanks for the input. Knowing the wax thing is very helpful. I will also try the warmer water if they get stubborn. The biggest problem I had was with the decal curling violently upon contact with water and the decal splitting during application; might you have any insight on the cause of this, and the proper handling thereof? Much appreciated.
Joel_W
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Posted: Friday, March 01, 2019 - 08:20 AM UTC

Quoted Text

Joel, thanks for the input. Knowing the wax thing is very helpful. I will also try the warmer water if they get stubborn. The biggest problem I had was with the decal curling violently upon contact with water and the decal splitting during application; might you have any insight on the cause of this, and the proper handling thereof? Much appreciated.



Bill,
Assuming that the decals aren't old & brittle (like me these days), they curl from contact with the water, the colder the water, the more they curl. But strangely, if you place them face down the won't curl, but will sort of bulge then settle down ands start to relax.

I only use less then a inch of water so that the decal won't float, and I can keep it face down. I also don't soak the decal very long. I just get it wet for like 30 sec then place it on a piece of glass or a ceramic tile or plate face up, and let the water just do it's thing.

Never rush a decal in the wetting/loosening from the back stage. You can rewet the decal if it's starting to dry out and still isn't loose from the backing paper.

Joel
Ray_from_SA
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Posted: Friday, March 01, 2019 - 09:13 AM UTC
I am currently building the Beemax 935 K2 and honestly have been very impressed with the decals. They've released from the backing paper very quickly and easily and responded very well to setting solutions. Unfortunately there's nothing on the decal sheets to indicate who printed their decals for them.

I know the Celica is one of their early kits, I wonder if they've been learning as they go and made improvements on the decal front?
wildbill426
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Posted: Saturday, March 02, 2019 - 05:55 AM UTC
Thank you Ray and Joel. I have purchased another Aoshima race car; not a Beemax, we'll see how it goes. I must say other than the decals the kit had great detail, and assembled without a hitch; if I avoid decal problems it'll be a home run. Joel, thank you again for your great insight into the decals; I am going to try everything you advised.
Curiously, I may have a tip for you; on a different kit, the decal sheet cover was held in place by scotch tape. I cut it off but didn't remove the tape. The part of the decal above the tape did not release from the backing paper and was that part was ruined. Lesson learned; if there is tape, remove it entirely from the decal sheet!! This wonderful hobby of ours makes sure we continue to learn almost every time we sit at our workbenches.
Joel_W
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Posted: Saturday, March 02, 2019 - 06:59 AM UTC

Quoted Text

Thank you Ray and Joel. I have purchased another Aoshima race car; not a Beemax, we'll see how it goes. I must say other than the decals the kit had great detail, and assembled without a hitch; if I avoid decal problems it'll be a home run. Joel, thank you again for your great insight into the decals; I am going to try everything you advised.
Curiously, I may have a tip for you; on a different kit, the decal sheet cover was held in place by scotch tape. I cut it off but didn't remove the tape. The part of the decal above the tape did not release from the backing paper and was that part was ruined. Lesson learned; if there is tape, remove it entirely from the decal sheet!! This wonderful hobby of ours makes sure we continue to learn almost every time we sit at our workbenches.




Bill
Glad to help.

So which kit did you get?

Joel
wildbill426
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Posted: Sunday, March 03, 2019 - 12:41 PM UTC
Joel, I'm not too sure...It says D1 Grand Prix, Kei Office S15 Silvia 2004 Rd5. Its green, lots of markings, pretty swoopy looking, Aoshima kit 5 in this series. I haven't opened it yet. All the photos on the box are reversed, which doesn't help, but I can read 'Nismo' on the side.
Joel_W
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Posted: Sunday, March 03, 2019 - 01:02 PM UTC

Quoted Text

Joel, I'm not too sure...It says D1 Grand Prix, Kei Office S15 Silvia 2004 Rd5. Its green, lots of markings, pretty swoopy looking, Aoshima kit 5 in this series. I haven't opened it yet. All the photos on the box are reversed, which doesn't help, but I can read 'Nismo' on the side.



Bill,
I'm no expert on Japanese sedan racing series, but this car, which is a Nissan ran in in 2004, and the kit was released in 2005. There's not much other information I could find out with just a few google searches.

Joel
wildbill426
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Posted: Monday, March 04, 2019 - 03:20 AM UTC
These decals have no panels plus they're in a plastic bag with no wax paper overlay. I think i'll use the Tamiya Kawasaki green paint, do the decals, and dip it in resin (aka Zero Diamond clear coat)
Joel_W
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Posted: Monday, March 04, 2019 - 04:35 AM UTC

Quoted Text

These decals have no panels plus they're in a plastic bag with no wax paper overlay. I think i'll use the Tamiya Kawasaki green paint, do the decals, and dip it in resin (aka Zero Diamond clear coat)



Bill,
the color panel decals are a fairly new thing. Wasn't that many years ago that we had to paint everything.

On my Tamiya Rothmans 956 Porsche, I air brushed all the Dark Blue side panels rather then buying the optional decal sheet from IndyCals with them printed. Many times there are so many compound curves such as going around, over, and under the head light compartments, or the bottom of the front clip, that you have to not only cut the decals into smaller parts, but painting sections that weren't covered or even worse always seems to happens to me.

Joel
wildbill426
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Posted: Tuesday, March 05, 2019 - 12:00 AM UTC
I've been doing Tamiya cars with panel decals since the 90s, so they're not that new. Same as you; I've had good and bad luck, mostly good, but the bad taught me how to mix paints to match colors, and that part is good!
Joel_W
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Posted: Tuesday, March 05, 2019 - 06:22 AM UTC

Quoted Text

I've been doing Tamiya cars with panel decals since the 90s, so they're not that new. Same as you; I've had good and bad luck, mostly good, but the bad taught me how to mix paints to match colors, and that part is good!



Bill,
I've had mixed results with matching colors. I come close, but most of the time it's just not close enough, and I can see it sticking out like a sore thumb.
Joel
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