OK, I'm getting ready to try Gravity paints for the first time with the Blue Oval GB. I'm not sure I want to try going right to the 2K Clear.

What else has been used successfully over Gravity paints?

For what I understood, Gravity paints are highly diluted auto paints, with acetone as solvent, and the finishing is a little rough per se. Like it or no, 2K is the best clear to deal with rougher finishes, since is the thickest clear and requires maximum 2 applications. the self-levelling properties of 2K are also phenomenal.
If you don't feel ready to try it, however, Model Master Clear Enamel it is also a viable option, and so is the Aqua Gloss from Alclad paints. I would not recommend X-22 from Tamiya. I've heard (but never tried myself) that Humbrol clear gloss it is also a good choice (with some modellers claiming that is the only good "color" from their range )

Gabriel

Hi David,
I have used it twice so far. As Gabriel, said it is a thick solution so you have to be brave when applying it. I am not sure I have nailed it yet but if you also use the Gravity polishes it comes up very well.

cheers
Michael

Thanks for the replies so far guys, I appreciate it.

I'm thinking I may get an extra color or two and try a sacrificial body (probably a Chevy LOL).

David,
I'm a very heavy user of Gravity paints, with Zero paints coming in 2nd for all my car finishes. I've now painted 7 car shells with them, 6 being Gravity, and 1 Zero paints. I had a hard time finding a outside the USA resource for Zero paints willing to ship to me, but Spot of Spain does, problem solved.

As Gabriel said, both of these paints as well as MCW paints are auto lacquer based, and are pre-thinned to the consistency of water. It's my understanding talking to both Gravity and MCW that their paints are thinned with automotive Lacquer Thinner from the same paint manufacture, as the paints sure do smell like Lacquer.

A good primer coat is an absolute must. I personally use a lacquer based primer, which I thin to the same water like consistency. Two tack coats, two wets coats usually works just fine. Then it's smoothed with Tamiya #3000 sponge wet going with real lite passes.

the trick to the application of the paints is lite even coats, and slowly build up your color coat. The goal is no orange peel. I do rub out my color coats and decal directly on top of the paint.

For clear coating I use Mr. Color C46 Clear Gloss, which is lacquer based, and air brushed just like I do the color coats. The final coat, I do cut with more LC to really help it self level.

I've stayed away from 2K clearcoats for a few reasons. 1st it's super expensive. I'm still looking for a auto brand that sells their 3 part kit in smaller sizes, not enough to clearcoat a full size car. 2nd, you need to completely clean your AB when you're done. Failure to do it correctly will cause major issues, and from what I've read, once dry, that's it for the AB. 3rd, it's harder to do the final polish and waxing compared to lacquer.

With all of that said, sooner then later I'll try to make the move. I have got my old Iwata single action, internal mix ABs, one with a .5mm setup, so that will become my 2k AB.

I do use a chemical paint respirator, and have a paint booth that is vented directly outside. And I wear Nitrile gloves when painting and cleaning my equipment.

Joel

I saw that

Thanks again all.

I wear a carbon filtered chemical filter and have a vented airbrushing station, most of the time I wear the Nitrile gloves as well.

I've sprayed automotive lacquer before and clean the airbrush with LT after every session even when spraying acrylics (full disassembly each time, I treat it like cleaning firearms).

I'll try the Mr. Color C46 instead of my usual MM Clear Gloss Lacquer.

I bought a sacrificial kit today and Damian will be happy, it wasn't a Chevy. Used a Hobby Lobby 40% off coupon and snagged a 1/25 Revell Snaptite Ford Raptor. Even if I screw up the body completely, the 35" BFG KO2s will come in handy. it was $11.99 after the coupon.

Now you are in trouble with Joel. I don't know which is worst

If you look at David's signature " . . . . I still bleed FORD Blue" then I think he is going to make the extra effort that this body not be sacrificed

Cheers, D

I almost bought the Revell Jeep Honcho and snowmobile kit, but it would have been 10 dollars more.

I was looking at the Raptor kit and I may pick up another one. The BFG KO2 All Terrains are very nice. I may use the seats on the Bronco, at first glance they look pretty good.

I only have had three truly sacrificial kits in my 30+ years of building. A Revell original series Cylon Raider, a Ford Escort and an Esci T-55. All were bought for cheap as paint tests. I still use them to test colors, I think the Escort has at least 10 different coats of primer and paint on it.

Other tests came out well enough that they made it to the workshop shelves, just not necessarily good enough for the office shelves.