Finally got my Skyline done. This is the Tamiya kit that offers two differnt markings. I chose the #23 car. Built strictly OOB. This was by far a more complex build than the other kits I have done thus far, but enjoyed it very much. About the only real hang up was the two tone paint. The first red that I shot looked too orange and after comparing it to the decals, it was. I reshot it with some Hmbrol and it was damn near a perfect match. The Aluminum was a perfect match to the bottle of non-buffing aluminum that I had on hand though. This was my first attempt at buffing the paint out too. I was pleased with the overall look once done. Not sure why I did it as I shot a semi-gloss over the whole thing once the decals were on, and the shine toned down considerably. It looked good while it lasted though. The decals took some coaxing around the rear corners, but eventually laid down nicely. I have another one on hand that I am going to do in different markings altogether. Black, yellow and white I believe. Anyway, here are a few pics of the overall build. Thanks for looking. Comments welcome. "Q"

Hi Matthew

Very impressive work. Gloss or semi gloss, the paintjob still looks really good. You have definitely done a good job on the decals.

On Tamiya's website, some parts on this car are painted to look like carbonfiber. I don't know if this is optional or??

Which Humbrol did you use for the red?

Agree with Jesper's comment on decal and paint job, it does look good.

I take that the first photo was taken after buffing the red paint. Any tips on buffing? I have seen Tamiya's buffing compound comes in different grades. By any chance you use any of these?

After I messed up a rally verion of a Celica, I can't help asking all these questions.

Thanks for the comments guys. Actually the paint hadn't been buffed out yet in the third pic. The tin is Humbrol #19. It definitely takes longer to dry than most paints though. I let it sit for a good 4 days, before trying anything. On the next one, I will let it set even longer as even after four days it still felt kind of soft. I decided I would try this buffing technique just to see if it really made any difference, and also to remove a couple minor flaws, ie. dust specs from the hood. It did look ok, but I think if the builder just took his time and had a good paint job to begin with, he/she wouldn't need to buff anything. As I said, earlier, mine was just to see if I could, and to remove a couple of dust specs. As to the carbon fiber decals, Tamiya doesn't provide for that option in the kit. However, I bought two sheets from Scale Motorsports of two differing colors of carbon fiber, and also some seat belts to use on other builds. They are a nice improvement. The sheets should provide one with enough to do a few cars depending on how extensive one got with the application.
The buffing system I used was from Micro Mark. I started with the 3600 grit pad, then 4000, 6000, 8000, and finaly 12000. This was followed with the Novus polishing creme/light scratch remover (#2 bottle) and then the #1 bottle for the protectant and shine. As far as a suggestion on using it, rub the sanding pads in one direction only, ie. front to back. No circles as this makes it hard to remove the scratches, and also creates an uneveness. When you get to the point of using the #2, and #1 bottles though, these are the same as applying regular car waxes, "Wax-on"-"Wax-off", small circles. Also, I suggest trying it out in an out of the way space to see if you are getting the results you want, then proceed to the main areas of the body.
On the next car of the same build, I will use a good amount of the carbon fiber decals, so keep your eye open for it. Thanks again. for kudos, guys. "Q"

Thanks for the tips. Will definitely keep my eyes open for your next project. Keep up the good work.

Thanks for the tips very nice job on the car's interior