Hey Gang,

WC here...

I'm thinking about start using automotive clear coat for my car models (the kind with hardener). I was wondering does anyone know where I can get small quantity instead of a gallon? I'm talking about maybe pint size portion.

Also, has anyone here have experience with it? Also what is the drying time on the paint? If I shoot it with my Iwata or Pasche, is it hard to clean up?

Thanks for your help.

WC

WC,

Considerations when using a catalyzed clear coat:

Urethanes are more difficult to atomize. Requires more air pressure to produce fine particle size.

Have a pot life. Once mixed with catalyst it mixture must be used within the specified time. It you left any in your airbrush overnight by accident, the airbrush would be trash.

Urethanes require hot solvents to clean the gun. Methyl Ethyl Ketone (MEK) is one.

Urethanes contain isocyanates which is a health hazard when they are atomized. It is recommended to wear a chemical respirator when spraying.

Because of the hardness of the paint film, repair is much more difficult. Sanding is difficult.

Expense. One site I looked at did offer clear coat in pints for 39.95.

[url]http://www.automotivetouchup.com/auto_paint.asp/url]

Hope this info helps with your decision.

Don

Don, thank you for the fast respond and detailed answer.

I have not use it on the scale model kit and I was afraid of what you mentioned. Particle size.
However, I've seen some top car modeler using this method. The result was fantastic.. I want to mimic that style so I want to give it a try. Don, sounds like you've using the product before... what's the result?

WC

For a good result, you can try a nail polish ( not as silly as it sounds ). Be sure to polish it well, and perhaps add some modelling wax.

i use duplicolor spray myself,

but i have seen other people use the 2 part clears.. and they look nice and shiny ya. but in my opinion they are thick and fill in panel lines..

James, your work is excellent. Now let me ask you, is Duplicolor an automotive spray paint? Should I spray it in the cup and then use my AB to paint it? Now is this laqure based or enamel? I use acrylic for basecoat so I'm not sure if this going to be compatible. Also, I heard to use 2000 grit sandpaper to polish the finish... now does that work well?

WC

yes its touch up paint, i pick it up at canadain tire.. its just normal spray paint.. i dont have an airbrush so i just use it right from the can...
but ya im sure you could use with your airbrush..

its lacquer and can be polished just like you would a real car.. 2000 grit is good if you have lots of orange peel.. but you have to move up the grits and finish with like 12,000 or higher..
i just use the tamiya compounds on my stuff , much easier lol

being lacquer im not sure how it will go over top of acrylic..

James, for someone who use spray can, your craftsmanship and discpline speaks even louder.

so use tamiya compound instead of sanding paper huh? That's a first to me... I gotta go get some then...

Thanks for the advice.

WC

Hey guys, I stumbled upon your forums while searching for something unrelated, typical huh? Anyways I thought I'd share my experience with automotive clearcoats here.

Obviously, a base coat is required. I use any base coat I scavenge out of my friend's used paint storage at his shop. Brands should ideally be the same, but I have no problems using paints that are a different brand from the clear. I've also used this clear over Testors/Boyd enamel.

The 2-part mix is usually 50/50 which is the right consistency for an industrial sprayer but much too thick for airbrushes. I mix it per instructions then thin it further 50% with lacquer thinner. Generic Home Depot thinner works well and it's what I use for everything that requires thinning.

With my Badger 175T I spray it at about 30 to 35 psi with a wide tip. My diaphragm compressor couldn't supply this pressure but I now use my 60 gallon compressor to airbrush. YMMV.

The surface will look like orange peel at first but it will settle down and smooth out after about 20 minutes. It is then almost rock hard within an hour and can even be buffed with a Dremel. Sanding and polishing is not required if applied correctly and/or your lucky stars are aligned. Otherwise 2000 grit and 3M rubbing compound from your local parts store is all you need.

Panel lines should be scribed before hand, regardless of paint used. This deepens the lines preventing them from being buried, and eliminates the need to paint in the lines which in my opinion looks wrong anyway.

As mentioned a good respirator is required, about $20 at Home Depot. A good extraction method is also required as the clearcoat will stick to anything it lands on. Clean the airbrush and soak the needles in lacquer thinner immediately after use.

This is a Ford red basecoat with 2 part clear. The only prep is scribing the panel lines and applying rattle-can primer. After it was cured (1 day!) I simply polished it.



-Ron