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Cars: Muscle Cars
60's & 70's Classics
AMT new tool Chrysler 300C (commissioned)
Scarred
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Washington, United States
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Posted: Monday, January 28, 2019 - 12:07 AM UTC
Here is a picture of a '58 MOPAR muffler. It's NOS (new old stock) and you can see that it's not polished or shiny. It's has surface rust because it's not stainless steel or aluminized. New on a '57 it the exhaust system would look like this minus the rust. Since you want a "stock" look this is what the exhaust system would look like.

https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/zFAAAOSw2spbJ8LA/s-l500.jpg
goodn8
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Berlin, Germany
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Posted: Tuesday, January 29, 2019 - 04:07 AM UTC
Gabriel,
thank you so much for your kind words as I'm really still on the beginners side!

Very sorry about your paint mess, I'm sure you can fix it.
The tape isn't bad but need a bit attention. It usually works fine with thin sharp edges and a firm tack. It's thinness let you see, when it grabs the surface. And it's easy to cut.



Quoted Text

...Just a thought, how about rubing/light polishing the flatt paint job, to a semi gloss finish. Most likely you cant get into all bends, turns and crevicis, but that could work as a kind of shading. ...



Not that I'm the one giving advises on automotive builds , but this is exactly what I thought.
Otherwise really great job on the exhausts and the body paint! Keep on!

Th mas
Szmann
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Netherlands Antilles
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Posted: Wednesday, January 30, 2019 - 01:19 AM UTC

Quoted Text

Gabriel, those exhausts look great. Really nice metal effect.

A shame about the paint peeling. Did the paint peel from the primer, or paint and primer together peel from the plastic? I have been "dulling down" the raw kit parts with P400 grit wet and dry paper to give the primer plenty of opportunity to bite to the surface.

Looking forward to the next update.

Cheers, D



Thanks, D.!
It seems that it peeled all the way back to the plastic. I rough the surface myself with a 2000 grit as a rule and I certainly did it in this case. The cause it is perhaps some areas I've missed, being too close to the angular shapes. The spot on the roof could be my fault for cutting too deep with #11 blade - I had some suspicions there from the good beginning.

Gabriel
Szmann
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Netherlands Antilles
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Posted: Wednesday, January 30, 2019 - 01:29 AM UTC
Joel, thank you my friend for good advice and king words. Yeah, I guess I nailed it with the exhausts eventually.
On Tamiya tape: your advice is great but as Tomas has noted it as well, the de-tacking procedure seems is not working on 40mm - which, again, it is not "regular" Tamiya it is Kamoi tape. When applied doesn't feel that tacky but if sits too for too long on the model, that glue literally "melts" under the heat (I have an average of 27-29 Celsius degree in Caribbean). Unfortunately, I had no chance to spray the model in the same day I've masked it and it happened! It may be also that the solvent helps the glue "melt" - that is something I need to look into as well.
It was a whole conversation about Kamoi tape on modelling circles a while ago and I've sourced some on Amazon - I'll give that one a try as well.

Thank you for your permanent support and encouragements!

Gabriel
Szmann
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Netherlands Antilles
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Posted: Wednesday, January 30, 2019 - 01:39 AM UTC
Patrick, Thank you for encouraging (and funny) comments.


Quoted Text


I'd leave them as they are they look great. Remember they are unfinished steel so they wouldn't be glossy. I don't believe they even had a protective varnish on them and if they did it burned off as soon as they fired up the engine. Give them a good wash like you did the engine and trans and that should be good. I agree the matte would be to much but definitely no gloss.



Yes: eventually I decided to glue them to the chassis frame, spray some Micro Gloss acrylic varnish which is not all that glossy by the way, and then wash everything with the same van Diyck brown oil I've used on the engine.


Quoted Text


I gotta tell you when I saw the paint peel I almost felt like I was kicked in the groin. I was thinking 'did the paint cure completely?' 'Was the adhesive on the tape too agressive?' 'Did he anger the gods of plastic?' Next time be sure to make a proper offering to the patron saint of plastic fanatics and use a less aggressive tape.


Well, yes! I'm starting having a sense of Greek drama here: all my builds are plagued with accidents - perhaps the plastic Gods are trying to chase me back to softskins because I am a heretic here
The glue on Tamiya 40mm is well known as aggressive: here perhaps is a conjunction of body preparation omissions and letting the tape for too long on the model before removing it.


Quoted Text


Here is a picture of a '58 MOPAR muffler. It's NOS (new old stock) and you can see that it's not polished or shiny. It's has surface rust because it's not stainless steel or aluminized. New on a '57 it the exhaust system would look like this minus the rust. Since you want a "stock" look this is what the exhaust system would look like.

https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/zFAAAOSw2spbJ8LA/s-l500.jpg


Patrick, this is a brilliant idea. I've been trying hard to find some underside pictures with the 300 series and I found some of a car sold on auction but they are taken from very shallow angle, as the photographer was afraid to go all the way under the lift and take proper pictures. It never crossed my mind to search on e-bay! Du-uh!
Now after seeing the original I must say I've come close enough with my intuition (except for the titanium hue). Very valuable reference for my next 300B build. Thank you so much for showing me the way!

Cheers!
Gabriel
Szmann
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Netherlands Antilles
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Posted: Wednesday, January 30, 2019 - 02:02 AM UTC

Quoted Text

Hi Gabriel.

Bummer about the paint. Keppeing my fingers crossed, hoping you can fix it.

The exhaust look awesome. Gloss or sating coat, hmmm. Just a thought, how about rubing/light polishing the flatt paint job, to a semi gloss finish. Most likely you cant get into all bends, turns and crevicis, but that could work as a kind of shading. This is NOT something I have tried myself, just idea that popped into my head.



Thanks, Jesper. Well, it needs to be fixed one way or another!
I have noticed myself the effect you're implying here: if a surfaced painted dead matte is supposed to some abrasion, it will gain a mild shine. It happened accidentally to me especially with acrylic paints, sometimes for good effect (car interiors), sometimes for bad (figures uniforms).
In this particular build I've chosen another way, but your recommendation was loaded into my "arsenal" - it worth a try if only for the sake of its simplicity!

Cheers!
Gabriel
Szmann
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Netherlands Antilles
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Posted: Wednesday, January 30, 2019 - 02:05 AM UTC

Quoted Text


Not that I'm the one giving advises on automotive builds , but this is exactly what I thought.
Otherwise really great job on the exhausts and the body paint! Keep on!

Th mas



Thanks, Thomas!
Well, any advice is welcome - I am one of those desperados always trying to add new "tricks" in my modelling hat!

Gabriel
Szmann
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Netherlands Antilles
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Posted: Wednesday, January 30, 2019 - 02:35 AM UTC
UPDATE - Regress report, Mafia II and more failures

Motto: The time you enjoy wasting is not wasted time

Hi guys!
To all: I didn't give up on this build or anything! I know I had until now almost daily updates but for the last two day I was unable to achieve a proper connection to AutoModeler page! It took forever to load the page and - when eventually it loaded, the "jump to page" button it wasn't working. After repeated failures I renounced and in frustration I played Mafia II, just to keep myself into the atmosphere

First off, I've been trying to patch the damaged paint work. I use undiluted paint as a filler to level the edges of the tear-ups. It worked almost perfectly for the small chip on the roof, but for the larger tear on the side it was pretty much a mess.
Another thing I've tried it was to dilute the base paint to a wash consistency and to apply it as a pin-wash along the side inserts, to reduce the "conflict" between the edges. It worked somewhat, and looked quite good under the naked eye but it showed up horribly under the camera because the difference of hue between the wash and airbrushed base color.
As Joel and Damian already called it out, this color mix of mine is very sensitive to the light temperature and to camera settings - which is actually good for the presentation of the model but is a pain in the neck in trying to achieve consistency So: under the mixed light in my working area looks fine; under 5500K white light in my photo tent the body looks green and the wash looks blue! Well...
Then I've decided what I should have decided from the start: to redo the paint job completely. Furthermore, I polished again the whole body with 1000 / 2000 Tamiya sponge. Needless to say, almost all the Alclad went off because rubbing and accidental crossing with the polishing sponge. Basically I'm back to the stands now, on the aquamarine primer stage That must be Damian's curse and his will that I must reconsider my attitude toward the relaxing and well-being benefits of the masking process I've got to be punished for my big mouth again
Another session I've tried to install the exhaust system to the chassis and I had all the apparatus set-up done: lights, camera, gloves and all that. As soon as I've finished the dry-fitting and I was ready to get gluing, a friend of mine (also Romanian, established in Canada) has called and we talked like housewives in mid-age crisis. One hour and twenty minutes later, I realized my session has expired, the battery of the camera was empty after filming 40 minutes of emptiness... There I go again!
All that is happening on the background of a very busy schedule at work and very little bench time

Well, in frustration (AutoModeler not working, body paint botched, wasted bench time), I wisely decided to waste even more time in a massive Mafia II kill spread until the small hours in the morning At least I've killed all the bad guys! Wait a minute! In that game I am the bad (the worst) guy! Eugh!

And there I am, back into the past, with a car body in primer stage, an undone chassis, no video footage for my YT channel, no pictures taken for the build blog and late at work

Cheers!
Gabriel
AussieReg
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#007
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Posted: Wednesday, January 30, 2019 - 02:42 AM UTC
Gabriel, my friend, embrace the Zen healing power of the masking tape. Add in a glass of JD on ice, some smooth blues cruising through the room, and your problems will all melt away.

I'm truly sorry to hear of your setbacks, but sometimes the best answer is to take a few steps backwards in order to move forwards more smoothly.

Hopefully you can get back on track soon.

Cheers, D
Szmann
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Netherlands Antilles
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Posted: Wednesday, January 30, 2019 - 02:54 AM UTC

Quoted Text

Gabriel, my friend, embrace the Zen healing power of the masking tape. Add in a glass of JD on ice, some smooth blues cruising through the room, and your problems will all melt away.


Not even that I can't do! I'm a teetotaler! But I like the blues! BTW: MAfia franchise has beautiful swing, rock and roll and blues licensed songs in their soundtack, perfectly fitted for the game atmosphere and game time.


Quoted Text


I'm truly sorry to hear of your setbacks, but sometimes the best answer is to take a few steps backwards in order to move forwards more smoothly.


I agree! I should have done exactly what I did but in reverse: take a day off from the bench, zen-contemplate my mistakes, bite the bullet and re-do the paint job anew. In a pathetic attempt to save a day's work I've wasted three!


Quoted Text


Hopefully you can get back on track soon.


Up, sober, and reporting for duty! Tonight I'll be ready for spraying a new aquamarine coat!

Thank you kindly for your moral support!
Cheers!
Gabriel
Stickframe
#362
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Posted: Wednesday, January 30, 2019 - 04:28 AM UTC
Hi Gabriel -

Iíll echo Daminís words - sorry to hear of your unplanned adventure in model building! Welll, on the brighter side, after your first attempt, at least you know that the paintwork and color will look good when youíre done!

For what itís worth, I recently built a Nissan drifter - I kept fooling around with the paint/body......yes, turned out, I too had the luxury of stripping all of it, down to body....primer and all, gone!! And yes, a few beers aided in the post stripping party!! What a dummy!!! I was impatient and simply didnít wait for the paint and tint to set, instead kept fooling around with it!! Guess what? That was a bad idea! Lol

Looking forward to seeing version 2!

Cheers
Nick
Scarred
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Washington, United States
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Posted: Wednesday, January 30, 2019 - 05:05 AM UTC

Quoted Text

Hi Gabriel -

Iíll echo Daminís words - sorry to hear of your unplanned adventure in model building! Welll, on the brighter side, after your first attempt, at least you know that the paintwork and color will look good when youíre done!

For what itís worth, I recently built a Nissan drifter - I kept fooling around with the paint/body......yes, turned out, I too had the luxury of stripping all of it, down to body....primer and all, gone!! And yes, a few beers aided in the post stripping party!! What a dummy!!! I was impatient and simply didnít wait for the paint and tint to set, instead kept fooling around with it!! Guess what? That was a bad idea! Lol

Looking forward to seeing version 2!

Cheers
Nick



my brother drifts nissans and after 'rubbing' many walls he did away with metal fenders and paint and went fiberglass with vinyl wrap.
Joel_W
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Posted: Wednesday, January 30, 2019 - 05:16 AM UTC
Gabriel,
Not exactly the news I was looking for when I check your latest update. But I've been there with all of those issues many times, and it's surely not fun to go back and have to practically start over the entire paint process.

As far as the tape issue, I to do recall following some discussions on it, and there is even a video about it. I think it was one of Will Patterson's. While he felt that it was in almost everyway, the equal to Tamiya tape, I never really bought into it. Tamiya tape was formulated specifically for us modelers and minimizing the negative effects on a properly painted surface. The Kamoi tape wasn't. I'm not saying that it doesn't work, because plenty of guys love the stuff. I'm just saying that even though the Tamiya tape is expensive, it seems to last a long time, and I've never had an issue with it that I didn't cause myself, which as I've admitted to, I've done more then a few times.

So now you're back to the primer stage after a few days to mentally regroup. Since you've already had those major issues with the Kamoi tape, I would urge you go to back to well detacked Tamiya tape this time as you already know all of it's adhesion characteristics. Or you could use Bare Metal Foil, which I still can't get to lay down without any wrinkles. Just one wrinkle and it looses it's effect.

The bottom line is that I have 100% complete confidence in your ability to produce a perfect finish on the big Chrysler 300.

And as a added bonus, just walk outside into that beautiful Caribbean weather, and then think how lucky you are to not be here in the states where the middle of the country will be feeling the effects of temps down to -55 F degrees by tomorrow! This is a once in a life time weather effect, but if you have to try and live through it, once is more then enough.


Joel

Szmann
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Netherlands Antilles
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Posted: Wednesday, January 30, 2019 - 12:52 PM UTC

Quoted Text


Iíll echo Daminís words - sorry to hear of your unplanned adventure in model building! Welll, on the brighter side, after your first attempt, at least you know that the paintwork and color will look good when youíre done!

For what itís worth, I recently built a Nissan drifter - I kept fooling around with the paint/body......yes, turned out, I too had the luxury of stripping all of it, down to body....primer and all, gone!! And yes, a few beers aided in the post stripping party!! What a dummy!!! I was impatient and simply didnít wait for the paint and tint to set, instead kept fooling around with it!! Guess what? That was a bad idea! Lol

Looking forward to seeing version 2!

Cheers
Nick



Thanks, Nick!
Yeah, I was doing that a lot in my beginner's years - and I've learned it on the hard way myself. Honestly, my level of confidence is quite high despite the setback. The time lost annoys me the most - nothing else. But it counts on the (another bad) experience chapter I guess

Cheers!
Gabriel
Szmann
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Posted: Wednesday, January 30, 2019 - 12:57 PM UTC

Quoted Text



my brother drifts nissans and after 'rubbing' many walls he did away with metal fenders and paint and went fiberglass with vinyl wrap.



Patrick - I've actually seen on YT some vinyl wrapping shop in England making a 1:18 diecast as a gift to a customer. It works on scale models too - but I wasn't very elated with the result.

Cheers1
Gabriel
Szmann
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Posted: Wednesday, January 30, 2019 - 01:20 PM UTC

Quoted Text

Gabriel,
Not exactly the news I was looking for when I check your latest update. But I've been there with all of those issues many times, and it's surely not fun to go back and have to practically start over the entire paint process.


Joel I'm sorry to be disappointing! Lucky me I really enjoy painting (not endlessly on the same model though!) and sanding (yeah, I'm a freak too!). I cannot say I'm glad I botched the paint job, but I'm not being dishearten either: just mildly annoyed with the time loss on a commissioned build.


Quoted Text


As far as the tape issue, I to do recall following some discussions on it, and there is even a video about it. I think it was one of Will Patterson's. While he felt that it was in almost everyway, the equal to Tamiya tape, I never really bought into it. Tamiya tape was formulated specifically for us modelers and minimizing the negative effects on a properly painted surface. The Kamoi tape wasn't. I'm not saying that it doesn't work, because plenty of guys love the stuff. I'm just saying that even though the Tamiya tape is expensive, it seems to last me a long time, and I've never had an issue with it that I didn't cause myself, which as I've admitted to, I've done more then a few times.


Yes, you're correct (again)! It is one of the Will Pattison rantings and it was all centered around modeling supplies manufacturers selling Kamoi tape as the ultimate modeler's tape at prices seven-fold bigger than the one anyone can buy on Amazon. I'm quite wary myself about the greed and recklessness of our "supplies specialists", but this is a completely different conversation that is best hold in private.


Quoted Text


So now you're back to the primer stage after a few days to mentally regroup. Since you've already had those major issues with the Kamoi tape, I would urge you go to back to well detacked Tamiya tape this time as you already know all of it's adhesion characteristics. Or you could use Bare Metal Foil, which I still can't get to lay down without any wrinkles. Just one wrinkle and it looses it's effect.


I will definitely take your suggestion and use the "regular" Tamiya. I heard the trick with BMF already - but I'm not all that confident: I never managed to get a clean edge on long cuts. I will use BMF ultra chrome in its intended way only and only the second masking / painting fails.

Quoted Text


The bottom line is that I have 100% complete confidence in your ability to produce a perfect finish on the big Chrysler 300.


Thank you for your vote of confidence and I'll try not to be disappointing again!


Quoted Text


And as a added bonus, just walk outside into that beautiful Caribbean weather, and then think how lucky you are to not be here in the states where the middle of the country will be feeling the effects of temps down to -55 F degrees by tomorrow! This is a once in a life time weather effect, but if you have to try and live through it, once is more then enough.


Joel




Joel, I am originating in a country with an excessive continental climate: scorching hot in the Summer and numbing cold in the Winter with a yearly maximum range between maximum and minimum of 60-80 Celsius degrees! I've seen them both. Now I'm living in an area with perhaps most stable and pleasant temperatures in the world, but ravaged now and then by monstrous hurricanes I still have to cross the Kalahari on a camel and Antarctica on a sled and my climate checklist is complete! LOL!

Cheers, old friend, and thank you for being so supportive!
Gabriel
Szmann
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Netherlands Antilles
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Posted: Wednesday, January 30, 2019 - 01:39 PM UTC
UPDATE - Second chapter on painting and some little good news

Well, I managed to re-spray the body with very similar results as the first time - just a little glossier in this occasion, but with the same pimples (I'm suspecting my white enamel paint as having incompletely dissolved "pigment clumps") - I didn't see the need for a new picture - you have seen it already in the first chapter . It's all manageable and neat, drying just now in the photo tent.

I did my best from today's session and assembled and filmed the process. A little fiddly and some teething problems of the "new" AMT but I am generally happy with the fitment and detail:

The engine has three locator pins in the frame that come together perfectly, in a surprising tight and stable manner. Not the same I can say about the connection of the exhaust pipes with the exhaust manifolds: the male connector is bigger than the female molded in the exhaust manifold and I needed to enlarge the hole at the cost of some chipped paint - no biggie, there is covered by the glue weld and very hard to be seen:


The exhaust pipes interweave very nice with the suspension and frame elements - I just loved it all along!


I wasn't again all that happy with the way the second segment connects to the mufflers. It is a keyed pin indeed there but the assembly is to heavy and the joint has a tendency to buckle under its own weight. Besides, a slight overdone bent on the right side exhaust pipe makes it shorter - that's why I needed to add some tape there, to support the joint until dry. Some pins with retainer would have been much more appreciated for this kind of joint. I cannot play down the will of AMT to improve and I'm not deducing karma points for this:


A gloss clear follows - probably sprayed selectively - and another brown wash which will dull out the "bare metal" on the frame. Once the process is done, I'm gonna take some more decent pictures in the photo cube, now hosting the drying body.

Cheers!
Gabriel
RussellE
#306
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Victoria, Australia
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Posted: Wednesday, January 30, 2019 - 08:57 PM UTC
AMT have really done a good job on the chassis Gabriel!

And your work has really brought it to life!
AussieReg
Staff MemberAssociate Editor
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Posted: Thursday, January 31, 2019 - 12:37 AM UTC
Great to see some assembly going on now Gabriel. A few little problems that you are dealing with, but overall it looks really good so far.

Also happy to hear that the repaint has proceeded.

Cheers, D
Hwa-Rang
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Posted: Thursday, January 31, 2019 - 01:28 AM UTC
Can only echo, what's already been said. Excellent work.
Szmann
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Netherlands Antilles
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Posted: Thursday, January 31, 2019 - 01:46 AM UTC

Quoted Text

AMT have really done a good job on the chassis Gabriel!

And your work has really brought it to life!



Hi, Russ!
I totally agree! This is my first AMT that I really enjoy. There are few issues here and there but well worth the trouble by rapport to detail level.

Thanks for stopping by!
Gabriel
Szmann
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Posted: Thursday, January 31, 2019 - 01:52 AM UTC

Quoted Text

Great to see some assembly going on now Gabriel. A few little problems that you are dealing with, but overall it looks really good so far.

Also happy to hear that the repaint has proceeded.

Cheers, D



Thanks, D.!
Overall I'm quite impressed with the AMT kit. So impressed in fact that I have another two in my shopping cart. Not even Tamiya cannot pull this level of detail for 20 bucks.

Yeah, the paint looks good - I quick checked it this morning - still a little tacky but I cannot mistake my ugly face in the reflection

Cheers!
Gabriel
Szmann
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Posted: Thursday, January 31, 2019 - 01:55 AM UTC

Quoted Text

Can only echo, what's already been said. Excellent work.



Thanks, Jesper!
Now I find everything a little too gleamy and garish, but the following treatment and some properly focused pictures will make the difference. Clear coating programmed for tonight session.

Cheers!
Gabriel
Joel_W
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Posted: Thursday, January 31, 2019 - 02:15 AM UTC
Gabriel,
I envy the fact that you live in a climate with beautiful weather conditions all year round. And yes Hurricanes are getting more frequent and more severe with each passing year. Most miss us on LI but pass close enough out to the east Atlantic to cause great concern. Then one does hit, it's a true disaster here. Still, my great wish that I tell my lovely wife nearly every day is to move down south even with the increase in Hurricane hits. I can't stand the cold weather, and right now it's a balmy 2f degrees. thank goodness I'm retired, and at least can stay inside till it hits the teens.

Love how your chassis turned out with the variation in semi gloss black. That truly looks so realistic. As for the issues of the front pipe to the exhaust manifold, then to the "can", and the rear pipe being a real bear trying to weave it up and over the rear axel, and finally getting everything aligned corrected without all those little extra twists, you did an excellent job of it. I can personally attest to just how realistic that is. I've done it (with a friend or two) on my back, and on a lift. A classic case for side pipes.

Joel
ChurchSTSV
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Posted: Thursday, January 31, 2019 - 03:18 AM UTC
I recently tried to hand paint some exhaust with Vallejo silver and it was a disaster.

Can you provide some more detail on how you got those pipes looking so good? What paint you used etc?