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Cars: Muscle Cars
60's & 70's Classics
Ferrari F50 Barchetta Build review
Hwa-Rang
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Kobenhavn, Denmark
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Posted: Sunday, March 15, 2020 - 07:47 PM UTC
Great Work Gabriel.
AussieReg
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Posted: Sunday, March 15, 2020 - 05:09 PM UTC
Making great progress on this build Gabriel! The red coat looks nice and smooth, and the gold primer coat looks to have done it's job.

The engine and interior are looking very sharp as well, you have managed to overcome the kit shortcomings so far.

Cheers, D
Joel_W
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Posted: Sunday, March 15, 2020 - 11:47 AM UTC
Gabriel,
So far from what I can see, the color coat looks darn good.

Joel
Szmann
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Netherlands Antilles
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Posted: Sunday, March 15, 2020 - 10:43 AM UTC
UPDATE

Well, the fact that I have sprayed just a single coat of bronze enamel made it dry faster than expected. I polished the surface with a cotton cloth to remove the free metallic dust particles - as I usually do and I was surprised with how little it came off - practically close to nothing!

Using TCP 012 "Chinese Red" acrylic lacquer, I applied two coats with my H&S Evolution 0.4mm @ 20psi, with a 10 minutes flashing time. The first coat was diluted 60% - 40% paint to thinner, while the second coat went somewhere to 50%-50%. As coverage, the first coat was already very good but I wanted to make sure I sprayed all nooks and crannies - that's why a applied a second one, more diluted.

For what I know now, there are no imperfections on the body - just a couple "dots" on the removable top. I could be that I'm wrong, since I didn't fiddle with it too long, I just hide it under the photo tent until the surface will be dry enough to expose it to dust.



There are goods and bads about the acrylic lacquers from TCP.

The Goods
They dry very fast and the period they are sticky on the surface it is very short.
The pigmentation is very good - their light colors (white, yellow, red) performing admirably.
They dry to a very smooth semi-gloss (some sort of foggy gloss I shall say) on which the gloss coat grips very well.

The Bads
The names are sometimes misleading, as this "Chinese Red" which stands probably for "Imperial Scarlet";
The surface is rather soft - that's partly good because they are easy to sand - and needs special care when sanding / polishing.
All in all, I like them for certain applications.



Cheers!
Gabriel
Szmann
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Netherlands Antilles
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Posted: Sunday, March 15, 2020 - 03:14 AM UTC

Quoted Text

Hi Gabriel, it's great to see this difficult kit progressing to the paint booth. I have followed your paint experiments over your various builds and I really like your boldness. I did try this mix, using Ferrari Red over Alclad brass for just a fire extinguisher to see how it would go. I am with you on this method because it does give the significantly more depth. I have a build I want to try using dark green over copper to see how that goes but that is sometime in the future.
Cheers
Michael


Michael, thank you for your interest and for support. The method was tested also by me in various combinations. For what I can say, the red works best over yellow / gold / copper spectre for "fiery red" and also over black, if you intend a dark "cherry red". The results over white & grey specters were average as they have the tendency to de-saturate the red.


Quoted Text

Gabriel,
The final results are all that counts, and you nailed it for sure.

Joel


Thanks, Joel!
This is just an intermediate result, after all. The final coat it's the one that matters the most and the emotions level it's still high in this build, since I've never used the TCP-012 Chinese Red. In the bottle looks good - that's all I can say for now

UPDATE
I'm done with trying to re-shape the engine. There are still a few scars here and there, a couple of ejection pins that I couldn't reach to clean and imperfections, but all the gaps are gone and most of the seam lines cleaned. Perfect it is not:


As preparation for detailing, I sprayed the whole assembly with Testor's Silver enamel. This paint looks awesome right after application, but gets dull very fast. In my climate, it start changing in a couple days, and in a span of several months turns black with oxidation. I try to use this weakness of the paint in my advantage because I certainly want a duller look to the engine:


The seats and interior tub done painting. A new clear coat is necessary before oil wash.


Probably the next step is to deal with the bottom pan of the car, while all the other components dry (by using enamels for both body and engine I create myself a 48 hrs window).

Gabriel
Joel_W
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Posted: Sunday, March 15, 2020 - 01:55 AM UTC
Gabriel,
The final results are all that counts, and you nailed it for sure.

Joel
Cosimodo
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Posted: Saturday, March 14, 2020 - 03:32 PM UTC
Hi Gabriel, it's great to see this difficult kit progressing to the paint booth. I have followed your paint experiments over your various builds and I really like your boldness. I did try this mix, using Ferrari Red over Alclad brass for just a fire extinguisher to see how it would go. I am with you on this method because it does give the significantly more depth. I have a build I want to try using dark green over copper to see how that goes but that is sometime in the future.
Cheers
Michael
Szmann
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Posted: Saturday, March 14, 2020 - 09:34 AM UTC
UPDATE - Gold fever!

After I wet sanded the whole body with a spent 3000 grit Tamiya sponge, I have applied the undercoat for the red. I used canned Rust-oleum Brass enamel diluted with MLT. This was for the first time that I never had lines of different flakes.

Here's the secrets I found today:
1. Shake the hell out of the can
2. Let rest for couple minutes
3. With a pipette, suck paint right from under the surface of the paint, avoiding oils and free floating flakes
4. Mix well with MLT
5. Fill up the AB cup
6. Spray outside the surface of the model a couple seconds, until the heavy flakes from the bottom of the cup are expelled, and continue the move on the surface.
7. Spray as usual, observing "rule" #6.



No grit to talk about, and no metallic flake "rashes". I feel almost guilty now that I have to cover it in red!

Gabriel
Szmann
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Posted: Friday, March 13, 2020 - 03:22 AM UTC

Quoted Text


Every auto enthusiast knows that working on Italian cars is a pain in the rear. The beast is looking good.


Yes, indeed. And the Germans copied the example under dealers's pressure. Regular maintenance on modern Porche, high end Audi and Ferrari require lifting off the engine from the body. A few of them not even have an engine hood anymore, let alone the transmission dipstick! Crazy! I better buy a Ford T


Quoted Text

Gabriel,
The black primer looks smooth and consistent. I'd say you nailed it to a T.

Joel



Thanks, Joel.
Yes, "business as usual" kind of priming session. A little sanding here, a little polishing there and she'll be good for gold undercoat.

Gabriel
Joel_W
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Posted: Friday, March 13, 2020 - 01:44 AM UTC
Gabriel,
The black primer looks smooth and consistent. I'd say you nailed it to a T.

Joel
Scarred
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Posted: Thursday, March 12, 2020 - 08:35 PM UTC

Quoted Text

Gabriel,
You're beating this Italian beast into submission for sure.

Interesting plan of attack:
The next steps on the body: black primer - sanding - gold undercoat - red base coat - sanding - 2K - if it works flawlessly.

That's a lot of paint layers. If You're going to go with a Black #1,500 Mr. Finisher primer, I'd sand down the gray primer to save a layer.

Joel



Every auto enthusiast knows that working on Italian cars is a pain in the rear. The beast is looking good.
Szmann
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Netherlands Antilles
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Posted: Thursday, March 12, 2020 - 01:19 PM UTC

Quoted Text

Interesting plan of attack:
The next steps on the body: black primer - sanding - gold undercoat - red base coat - sanding - 2K - if it works flawlessly.

That's a lot of paint layers. If You're going to go with a Black #1,500 Mr. Finisher primer, I'd sand down the gray primer to save a layer.

Joel



:) It sounds like one or two too many, right? Well, the black primer it substitutes actually what the second coat of gray should have been. I have used grey instead of black at the beginning from logistic reasons - I just have a bigger stock of gray and the interior alone ate me three coats. The initial gray was polished or sanded whatever the case on the exterior surfaces, and I'm not too afraid of a build-up. I would be a little worried about the metallic undercoat, because I'm gonna use Rust-oleum from tin can and these paint are rather thick and they have large metallic flake. But, again, I prefer one coat of Rust-oleum than two-three coats of Alclad, both as time economy and as cost cutting. I'm gonna keep one eye on the panel lines after the gold coat and redo them if necessary, although I doubt. I have a rather "light hand" when comes about airbrushing, even when I use large setup (0.4mm)

UPDATE - black is the new grey
Once I decided that my undercoat will be gold, it makes more sense to use a black primer. This is the reason I chose to apply the second coat in black instead of grey.
The usual grains here and there, mostly under the spoiler and inside and around the front "nostrils", but nothing to have me use bad words, and thus OK.








The rear quarter it still has a little visible line - and I haven't decided yet if I should sand again or just ignore it and go forward. Luckily, it is more prominent on the left side, where there is still some plastic thickness left under the primer.


Cheers!
Gabriel
Joel_W
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Posted: Thursday, March 12, 2020 - 08:19 AM UTC
Gabriel,
You're beating this Italian beast into submission for sure.

Interesting plan of attack:
The next steps on the body: black primer - sanding - gold undercoat - red base coat - sanding - 2K - if it works flawlessly.

That's a lot of paint layers. If You're going to go with a Black #1,500 Mr. Finisher primer, I'd sand down the gray primer to save a layer.

Joel
Szmann
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Netherlands Antilles
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Posted: Wednesday, March 11, 2020 - 06:05 AM UTC

Quoted Text

You're making excellent progress, my friend. I have full confident, in you winning this battle.



Thank you so much, Jesper, for stopping by. Yes, if the Modelling Gods are not playing pranks, I'm gonna win eventually The engine is surrounded and will surrender soon.

Cheers!
Gabriel
Hwa-Rang
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Posted: Wednesday, March 11, 2020 - 04:34 AM UTC
You're making excellent progress, my friend. I have full confident, in you winning this battle.
Szmann
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Netherlands Antilles
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Posted: Wednesday, March 11, 2020 - 02:50 AM UTC
Sorry for the deleted post, KM Network works awfully slow and the previous upload was timed out - the post was empty.

Joel, the decals were already sprayed with Tamiya Smoke as a filter and as a gloss coat. The following gloss coat will be acrylic, so I can use oil wash.

UPDATE

This is my second go to the rear quarter panel. It looks much better now, but perhaps no further refining it's possible - at least on the right side - because the plastic is by now paper thin with sanding


The primer applied previously on the main shell was quite good, so a little wet sanding with 3000 grit was all it needed. Also some overlooked seam lines were corrected:



The removable roof was also sanded, and you can see here how easily the red bleeds out wherever the polishing was a little more energetic


Gabriel
Removed by original poster on 03/11/20 - 14:18:31 (GMT).
Joel_W
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Posted: Wednesday, March 11, 2020 - 12:45 AM UTC
Gabriel,
The door panels look really quite good. Looking forward to how the smoke coat alters the look of the CF as it gets toned down.

Joel
Szmann
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Posted: Tuesday, March 10, 2020 - 02:10 PM UTC

Quoted Text

Gabriel,
The interior to date is really shaping up. The CF decaling looks dead on perfect. Are those your own CF decals?

Joel



Thank you, Joel! Yes, these decals are produced by BlackLight Design.

Update - CF done but more to come
I found the contrast between 2 components of the CF a little too sharp - especially after checking my online references - so I applied a filter. BLD decals are printed on transparent film, and the underlying color is very important. It also allows to replicate modern CF shades, like the ones deployed by Konigsegg (blue, red, holographic white).


The effect is more visible on more exposed parts. Also, the filter dealt with my few mistakes:


A clear coat will follow after the smoke filter, to add more depth and also to blend further the difference between matte black and the glossy fiber. I know the details look a little confusing now, like some sort of dazzling scheme, but the following stages will address the issues.


And that was about interior CF bits, but there is more in the engine bay...

Cheers!
Gabriel
Joel_W
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Posted: Tuesday, March 10, 2020 - 11:56 AM UTC
Gabriel,
The interior to date is really shaping up. The CF decaling looks dead on perfect. Are those your own CF decals?

Joel
Szmann
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Netherlands Antilles
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Posted: Monday, March 09, 2020 - 01:26 PM UTC

Quoted Text

Looking very nice so far Gabriel! What is your process for cutting the templates? I can envisage laying down masking tape and trimming it to the area to be decalled, then lifting it off and using it to cut a card template.

Looking forward to the next update, you are moving quickly on this one!

Cheers, D



Thank you for following up, D.!

You have described quite accurately my decal fitting. I lay first masking tape over the plastic part. When I have compound surfaces, (like in this particular case the part behind the seats running all the way to the door sill mats), I use multiple pieces of tape together. I trace the contour to be cut pretty much like applying BMF: first with a toothpick to establish a sharp margin, then with a pencil or fine pen. I remove the tape, and I trim it close to the cutting line, then I move it on the CF decal sheet. I cut the contour thru both masking tape and decal paper simultaneously with a very sharp #11 blade. I prefer to keep some "paper bleed" on the masking tape, because I noticed that the cut edges remain cleaner when cut thru the tape and decal paper than when cutting thru the decal alone.

I try to move quick because I'm running out of time. My March is expected to be very busy and I really want to catch the beginning of Strip... Campaign, whose beginning coincides with the second edition of TCC.
Cheers!
Gabriel
AussieReg
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Posted: Monday, March 09, 2020 - 01:08 PM UTC
Looking very nice so far Gabriel! What is your process for cutting the templates? I can envisage laying down masking tape and trimming it to the area to be decalled, then lifting it off and using it to cut a card template.

Looking forward to the next update, you are moving quickly on this one!

Cheers, D
Szmann
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Posted: Monday, March 09, 2020 - 12:02 PM UTC
Minor update

Apparently Joel and I were struggling with decals during the last days. As in Joel's case, my CF decals are one sheet and I have to cut myself the templates. quite tedious work and easy to screw up. I did a few mistakes, but I had not enough patience to redo the decalling. However, in most visible parts, the decals are looking acceptable. There are still to be applied on dashboard, door cards, engine cover and inner rear fenders. F-50 it is built almost entirely from CF, but the called out parts are the most obvious on the real model.
In parallel, I went on with the seats detailing - I'm not done yet, but the main colour scheme is laid.

Cheers!
Gabriel
Szmann
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Posted: Monday, March 09, 2020 - 02:33 AM UTC

Quoted Text

Gabriel,
I'll 2nd what D just said.

I did a little more research on this Red color issue with some fellow modelers (unfortunately, not members in our community). One who built the Ebbro F1 Lotus 49B in the Red and Gold color scheme had all sorts of issues with the Red plastic bleeding through even the lacquer based primer and distorting the Gold. He ended up stripping the shell parts, then priming and a undercoat of Silver of all colors. Then the Red which as you said the actual color in the bottle and the Gold was then dead on.
Joel



That fellow's modeller experience (and many others I've seen on YT and random forums) proves exactly my point, but just a few seem to understand the phenomenon. The corect diagnostic leads to the corect cure. If you block the translucency of the plastic from all parts (inside and edges inclusive), any primer will do. If you prefer to spray only from outside the shell, any undercoat with a high reflective index will do (silver and gold work best).
My favorite color for plastic molding would be either light grey either tan (!) color.

Cheers!
Gabriel
Joel_W
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Posted: Monday, March 09, 2020 - 01:48 AM UTC
Gabriel,
I'll 2nd what D just said.

I did a little more research on this Red color issue with some fellow modelers (unfortunately, not members in our community). One who built the Ebbro F1 Lotus 49B in the Red and Gold color scheme had all sorts of issues with the Red plastic bleeding through even the lacquer based primer and distorting the Gold. He ended up stripping the shell parts, then priming and a undercoat of Silver of all colors. Then the Red which as you said the actual color in the bottle and the Gold was then dead on.

I'd gladly settle for every model to be molded in neutral gray plastic. That would have saved me countless hours even with my Roush Mustang.

Joel