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Cars: Muscle Cars
60's & 70's Classics
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Ferrari F50 Barchetta Build review
Cosimodo
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Posted: Saturday, March 14, 2020 - 03:32 PM UTC
Hi Gabriel, it's great to see this difficult kit progressing to the paint booth. I have followed your paint experiments over your various builds and I really like your boldness. I did try this mix, using Ferrari Red over Alclad brass for just a fire extinguisher to see how it would go. I am with you on this method because it does give the significantly more depth. I have a build I want to try using dark green over copper to see how that goes but that is sometime in the future.
Cheers
Michael
Joel_W
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Posted: Sunday, March 15, 2020 - 01:55 AM UTC
Gabriel,
The final results are all that counts, and you nailed it for sure.

Joel
Szmann
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Posted: Sunday, March 15, 2020 - 03:14 AM UTC

Quoted Text

Hi Gabriel, it's great to see this difficult kit progressing to the paint booth. I have followed your paint experiments over your various builds and I really like your boldness. I did try this mix, using Ferrari Red over Alclad brass for just a fire extinguisher to see how it would go. I am with you on this method because it does give the significantly more depth. I have a build I want to try using dark green over copper to see how that goes but that is sometime in the future.
Cheers
Michael


Michael, thank you for your interest and for support. The method was tested also by me in various combinations. For what I can say, the red works best over yellow / gold / copper spectre for "fiery red" and also over black, if you intend a dark "cherry red". The results over white & grey specters were average as they have the tendency to de-saturate the red.


Quoted Text

Gabriel,
The final results are all that counts, and you nailed it for sure.

Joel


Thanks, Joel!
This is just an intermediate result, after all. The final coat it's the one that matters the most and the emotions level it's still high in this build, since I've never used the TCP-012 Chinese Red. In the bottle looks good - that's all I can say for now

UPDATE
I'm done with trying to re-shape the engine. There are still a few scars here and there, a couple of ejection pins that I couldn't reach to clean and imperfections, but all the gaps are gone and most of the seam lines cleaned. Perfect it is not:


As preparation for detailing, I sprayed the whole assembly with Testor's Silver enamel. This paint looks awesome right after application, but gets dull very fast. In my climate, it start changing in a couple days, and in a span of several months turns black with oxidation. I try to use this weakness of the paint in my advantage because I certainly want a duller look to the engine:


The seats and interior tub done painting. A new clear coat is necessary before oil wash.


Probably the next step is to deal with the bottom pan of the car, while all the other components dry (by using enamels for both body and engine I create myself a 48 hrs window).

Gabriel
Szmann
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Posted: Sunday, March 15, 2020 - 10:43 AM UTC
UPDATE

Well, the fact that I have sprayed just a single coat of bronze enamel made it dry faster than expected. I polished the surface with a cotton cloth to remove the free metallic dust particles - as I usually do and I was surprised with how little it came off - practically close to nothing!

Using TCP 012 "Chinese Red" acrylic lacquer, I applied two coats with my H&S Evolution 0.4mm @ 20psi, with a 10 minutes flashing time. The first coat was diluted 60% - 40% paint to thinner, while the second coat went somewhere to 50%-50%. As coverage, the first coat was already very good but I wanted to make sure I sprayed all nooks and crannies - that's why a applied a second one, more diluted.

For what I know now, there are no imperfections on the body - just a couple "dots" on the removable top. I could be that I'm wrong, since I didn't fiddle with it too long, I just hide it under the photo tent until the surface will be dry enough to expose it to dust.



There are goods and bads about the acrylic lacquers from TCP.

The Goods
They dry very fast and the period they are sticky on the surface it is very short.
The pigmentation is very good - their light colors (white, yellow, red) performing admirably.
They dry to a very smooth semi-gloss (some sort of foggy gloss I shall say) on which the gloss coat grips very well.

The Bads
The names are sometimes misleading, as this "Chinese Red" which stands probably for "Imperial Scarlet";
The surface is rather soft - that's partly good because they are easy to sand - and needs special care when sanding / polishing.
All in all, I like them for certain applications.



Cheers!
Gabriel
Joel_W
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Posted: Sunday, March 15, 2020 - 11:47 AM UTC
Gabriel,
So far from what I can see, the color coat looks darn good.

Joel
AussieReg
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Posted: Sunday, March 15, 2020 - 05:09 PM UTC
Making great progress on this build Gabriel! The red coat looks nice and smooth, and the gold primer coat looks to have done it's job.

The engine and interior are looking very sharp as well, you have managed to overcome the kit shortcomings so far.

Cheers, D
Hwa-Rang
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Posted: Sunday, March 15, 2020 - 07:47 PM UTC
Great Work Gabriel.
Szmann
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Posted: Monday, March 16, 2020 - 08:36 AM UTC

Quoted Text

Gabriel,
So far from what I can see, the color coat looks darn good.

Joel



Thanks, Joel
I have been a little over-enthusiastic when I said there are no spots. They didn't show on the wet paint, but on the dry one i have a few "areas of interest". However, the polishing work is minimal.


Quoted Text

Making great progress on this build Gabriel! The red coat looks nice and smooth, and the gold primer coat looks to have done it's job.

The engine and interior are looking very sharp as well, you have managed to overcome the kit shortcomings so far.

Cheers, D


Thanks, D.! The engine it's still troublesome. I did a test-fit with the firewall and the bottom plate and I might need to break down the whole right side exhaust to re-seat it. Let's see how it's going to be...
Yes, the interior it's quite good in this kit, thankfully, because it's going to be very visible.
The red it's quite nice, indeed, and the clear coat it's going to make it nicer (I hope )


Quoted Text


Great Work Gabriel.


Thanks, Jesper! The kit isn't finished yet but seems the tables are turning in my favor. Thanks again!

Gabriel
Szmann
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Posted: Monday, March 16, 2020 - 01:52 PM UTC
UPDATE - Ferrari Red, Orange or Imperial Scarlet?!

2K No Name applied. The gloss achieved is very good but it comes with something like an orange peel but much finer. You can see that the edges of the reflection are fuzzy and not perfectly round. That is perhaps the result of thinning too much the resin, spaying with too much pressure or not respecting the flashing time. I am rather inclined to consider the first reason... but the thing now it is that I'm not happy with the result. Back to square one with the clear, as soon as it cures.




And now a very good exemplification of how the gold undercoat works. The following picture is taken in the same place, with the same camera (without changing the settings) as the first two but the "orange" car is "Imperial Scarlet" now...


So, how it comes?
In the first two pictures, the car's body it's flooded in strong light. Strong enough to penetrate the clear and the red, bounce back from the reflexive gold, mix with the red (optical mix) and result orange (yellow + red = orange).
I the third picture, I have the same setup (same camera with same settings, some background and same temperature light), but the object is brought forward, outside from the light spot and the lights were dimmed. Now there is enough light just to penetrate the clear and bounce back from the red. That is why the color looks dark red now (clear coat effect). An important role in the last picture plays also the presence of the white foam block that changes the white balance of the camera. In the optimal natural light, the body will be a fiery red with orangey-golden "waters". But I didn't reach there yet - I need a good cut and polish on that body - maybe a second coat of resin - I can't tell yet.

Gabriel
Cosimodo
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Posted: Monday, March 16, 2020 - 04:32 PM UTC
Great explanation Gabriel on the photos and reinforcing the reason why you can never be sure of a car colour by looking at photos.
I will be very interested in how you go with the resin respray and whether it levels out the light peel effect. The ability to effect that outcome has limited by use of the 2K mainly because I didn't want to go back to the styrene and start again.

cheers
Michael
Joel_W
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Posted: Tuesday, March 17, 2020 - 01:24 AM UTC
Gabriel,
Optical lighting in Photography is it's own science for sure. Believe me I only know all to well. But the important thing is that you have a handle on it.

Looking at the 2K orange peel, it looks like a combination of to much applied at to slow a rate of moving your AB across the body. But all isn't lost. Let it dry and cure for a min of 3 full days, then 3,000 through 12,000 wet sand paper, followed by your polishing procedure, and I'm willing to bet that you'll have that mile deep shine.

Joel
Szmann
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Posted: Tuesday, March 17, 2020 - 03:29 PM UTC

Quoted Text

Gabriel,

Looking at the 2K orange peel, it looks like a combination of to much applied at to slow a rate of moving your AB across the body. But all isn't lost. Let it dry and cure for a min of 3 full days, then 3,000 through 12,000 wet sand paper, followed by your polishing procedure, and I'm willing to bet that you'll have that mile deep shine.

Joel


Thanks, Joel! I'm still mentally investigating the cause. For sure there is not too much applied - I have no runs and no pooling anywhere. My best guess for now it that I didn't respect the flash time between the first and second coat - I had a call from Ireland while doing that - and the second coat didn't integrate with the first. I had the same thing happening on my first Porsche 959 and at that time I tried to level the resin with a heat gun - with catastrophic results. I'm still laughing at that story - but I have a spare Porsche engine left!

Update
This evening the resin seemed hard enough for polishing. I was still in two minds: should I sand down the orange peel and apply a new coat, or should I try to cut and polish the orange peel directly. I found the second option more economical as time, and I went ahead. I broke the resin surface with 3000 grit sandpaper dry first, then I went wet sanding with the same grit and finally I used the Tamiya trio.


The orange peel was almost completely removed, but the reflection it's still a little smudged, sign that the resin isn't hard enough or I just need another round of polishing.


At this point, maybe even some good car wax can solve the problem: the reflection is there and it is deep enough - it works like a mirror:


With another day allowed to the main body to dry, probably tomorrow it will be just good for polishing.

Gabriel
AussieReg
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Posted: Tuesday, March 17, 2020 - 04:17 PM UTC
That's a nice clear reflection in the last photo Gabriel, great job polishing out the clear coat so far!

Cheers, D
Hwa-Rang
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Posted: Tuesday, March 17, 2020 - 08:27 PM UTC
That looks nice and shiny Gabriel. Great job.
Szmann
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Posted: Tuesday, March 17, 2020 - 11:17 PM UTC

Quoted Text

That's a nice clear reflection in the last photo Gabriel, great job polishing out the clear coat so far!

Cheers, D


Thanks, D.. Well, that piece has the simpler shape. Let's see how it's going to work on the body. Maybe I can go around without scratching anything


Quoted Text


That looks nice and shiny Gabriel. Great job.


It doesn't look bad - I agree, but I also know I had better results. I'm still pretty much uncertain

Gabriel
Joel_W
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Posted: Wednesday, March 18, 2020 - 01:19 AM UTC
Gabriel,
The finish looks great now. As for waxing, I always use a high quality model car liquid wax, never one of the waxes for The Coupe. Way to expensive, and it was never meant for these types of jobs.

I bought the entire polishing and wax from Gravity, but will be moving over to general auto polishes, but not any of their waxes.

Joel
Szmann
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Posted: Wednesday, March 18, 2020 - 08:23 AM UTC

Quoted Text

Gabriel,
The finish looks great now. As for waxing, I always use a high quality model car liquid wax, never one of the waxes for The Coupe. Way to expensive, and it was never meant for these types of jobs.

I bought the entire polishing and wax from Gravity, but will be moving over to general auto polishes, but not any of their waxes.

Joel



Thanks, Joel!
I have Novus and Tamyia waxes. For some reason I prefer Novus. As for polishing, Turtle wax light and moderate scratches seems to work as well as Tamiya compounds, but since I have them, I'm looking to liquidate the stock.

Gabriel
RussellE
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Posted: Wednesday, March 18, 2020 - 09:23 AM UTC
Hi Gabriel

been quietly watching your build of this lovely vehicle from the side lines up til now.

Your efforts to achieve that deep shine are paying off and you're nearly there now!

Best health to everyone!
Szmann
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Posted: Thursday, March 19, 2020 - 08:56 AM UTC

Quoted Text

Hi Gabriel

been quietly watching your build of this lovely vehicle from the side lines up til now.

Your efforts to achieve that deep shine are paying off and you're nearly there now!

Best health to everyone!



Thanks, Russ! I had a feeling you can't be that far...
Well, my efforts to get the deep shine put me into trouble

UPDATE - One scratch too many
After I managed to give some decent polish to the rear quarter and to the roof, I started working the main body. It was a long shot, anyhow and soon enough I put two scratches on it, one uglier than the other. Fed up, I grabbed my AB and sprayed another coat of the same TCP Chinese Red[/b], thinner this time and in a single wet coat. It went good. Let's see how's going to look once dry:




The bottom is devoid of any detail and the single thing I'm gonna do here is to seal the battery panel.


The wheels were full of hard to clean flash (what else?!). I cleaned them, primed and sprayed with [i]Alclad chrome
over gray primer - the combination gives a quite convincing "alloy" (not shown in the pictures yet)


The works on the engine and interior progressing slowly, but nothing worth a picture yet.

Cheers!
Gabriel
RussellE
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Posted: Thursday, March 19, 2020 - 09:35 PM UTC
yep, not far away Gabriel

body's looking good now
Joel_W
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Posted: Friday, March 20, 2020 - 01:19 AM UTC
Gabriel,
Nice job on the wheels as they're a major eye catcher when the model is on display.,

Joel
Szmann
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Posted: Friday, March 20, 2020 - 02:24 PM UTC

Quoted Text


yep, not far away Gabriel

body's looking good now


Thanks, Russ! And after today's 2K session, it looks even better!


Quoted Text

Gabriel,
Nice job on the wheels as they're a major eye catcher when the model is on display.,

Joel



Thanks, Joel!
I'm still working out the small details at slow pace, being caught with launching the new evaluation rules for TCC.
Since last update I managed to put together some lose ends on this build, but the main problem was the paint on the body.

UPDATE
The second attempt to clear coat went much better, although not flawless. I have to deal now only with few dried resin grains - much better than a whole lot of eggshell finish:


The bottom pan was also sprayed back, but nothing of interest before I add the extra details and the firewall to it.

Gabriel
Joel_W
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Posted: Saturday, March 21, 2020 - 01:40 AM UTC
Gabriel,
All I can say is that from my vantage point, the body shell looks like it has a million dollar finish.

Joel
Szmann
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Posted: Sunday, March 22, 2020 - 05:58 AM UTC

Quoted Text

Gabriel,
All I can say is that from my vantage point, the body shell looks like it has a million dollar finish.

Joel



Thank you, Joel! Yes, apparently I managed to avoid the mistakes from the first session, somehow.

UPDATE - last lap

Well, my Ferrari build it's entering the last lap.
The engine almost done in this picture: the spring loaded cross member added and ignition wires scratch built:


The interior and the engine dry-fitted. It might be a little alignment issue with the engine, but for most part it seats pretty good. The firewall still not installed:


The engine finally completely assembled. Some scratch-built elements added, like transmission coolant pipes and MAF sensor wires - quite visible on the original F50:


The masks eventually removed from the lateral windows and the "rubber" surfaces painted black:


The metallic painted surfaces are to receive CF decals as well, together with the engine bay side of the firewall:


Now everything it's a matter of "wait to dry before go further", and I hope that by tomorrow everything will be done with.

Cheers!
Gabriel
RussellE
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Posted: Sunday, March 22, 2020 - 09:29 AM UTC
Gabriel, you make it look easy.

That engine looks great and the carbon fibre finish is very nice.

Looking forward to the final updates!