Oh my!! you've got my Revell Roush Mustang gluing issues beat by a country mile. I've never seen so many pin marks on a few pieces before. But since it's a closed wheel car, the suspension parts facing up will be inside the body and not visible. The bottom sides hopefully don't have any ejector pin marks.
I'm taken aback too! I agree, most of them are out of sight but still!
What really is puzzling is that a kit dating only back a few years has an electric motor and gear assembly. Wonder where they came up with the idea from?
My best guess is that the had (or bought) some old F-40 stock and cast anew only the interior and the body shell. That will explain the huge difference in plastic quality and molding between black, red and silver parts.
I thought I had fun with the underside of my '55, there are 25 ejector pin points on the one part!
, I'm quite sure your part holds the record for the most "pinned" one. My engine bloc has "only" 12, of which "only" 4 were interfering with the assembly process UPDATE - I will let you know when two parts will fit together
The engine odyssey continues with adding the engine bottom. Well, it is hard to see any engine there, between the clothes pins and clamps, but you have to take my word for it. The part was horribly warped away from the bloc and sideways, that I had to glue it bit by bit, waiting for the glue to set before pressing down forward for another millimeter. A few seconds job on a Tamiya
kit has become an full evening job on CC Lee kit!
Waiting for the glue to set on the engine, I started working on the body. Completely different plastic, soft and glossy this time, on which TET works without a hitch. The softness of the plastic provided me with some superficial scratches as well, but so far I'm thankful - isn't as bad as I thought it will be:
Well, no big surprise here. The frame of the triangular window has collapsed inside the box and it's ready to break:
For symmetry, same goes for the other side
My solution to this problem it was to glue the windows inside the frame at this early stage, and to make sure the bent frames are glued to the edges of the windows. Even if I smeared a little the window with TET, it's all fine - I'm going to polish it and mask it before priming:
The spoiler and the engine hood came as separate parts, and of course they don't fit. Here you can see the gap running along the join line:
With the shell, the usual drill: removing parting lines, cleaning up flash, removing scratches, re-scribing panel lines... you know the job:
Here are the body parts scuffed up with 1500 grit sandpaper, but not quite ready for primer. First I need to patch the gap between spoiler and rear engine deck, and also to polish and mask the triangular windows:
For sure I'm going to need at least couple heavy coats of primer on this one, so it's never too early to start working on the body shell!