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Indycal decals question
wildbill426
_VISITCOMMUNITY
Connecticut, United States
Joined: December 08, 2006
KitMaker: 403 posts
Auto Modeler: 25 posts
Posted: Monday, October 26, 2020 - 01:19 AM UTC
I'm using my first ever Indycal set on my Tamiya GT4 Mustang. I'm finding these decals are unlike any I've ever used! They seem to be printed on very thin plastic; but whatever is used for backing is very thin and tough. It is very hard to cut, even with a brand new #11 Xacto blade. The finish on the decals is matte, and isn't even. Overall they do go down well with heat and Micro Set but they certainly are a different experience. My question is, has anyone used clear over them? I'd like to use my Zero Diamond clear, which I've had good luck using before over decals, but I'm wondering how it will interact with the matt finish. If anyone can give me some feedback it would be most appreciated.
Joel_W
Staff MemberAssociate Editor
AUTOMODELER
_VISITCOMMUNITY
New York, United States
Joined: December 04, 2010
KitMaker: 11,666 posts
Auto Modeler: 2,974 posts
Posted: Monday, October 26, 2020 - 01:44 AM UTC
Bill,
Sorry to read that you're having issues with Indy Cal decals. I've used them as my go to 1st choice for years, and never had an issue other then two that I caused, which Michael replaced free of charge and in short order.

Indy Cal decals are printed on quality clear decal sheets so in a sense, all the decals are like one big decal. For cutting the sheets I use a very sharp pair of scissors, then once the decal has been separated from the main sheet, I cut as close to the actual decal as I can to remove excess clear film.

My decaling procedure is Paul Budzik's procedure. Works perfectly. Paul has been since the 1970's a IPMS National winner including scratch built aircraft. So his techniques are certainly time proven.

I soak each decal one at a time in a warm water bath for a min, then I let it rest on a flat hard surface till the decal freely moves.

My actual procedure is:
Micro Set under the decal, slide the decal into position.
Micro Set on top of the decal and let it do it's job of softening the decal, when starting to dry, I roll it into position with a damp Qtip
Micro Sol is then brushed on and I let it do it's job until it starts to dry, then using a damp Q tip, I work it so that all the air bubbles, wrinkles are gone, as well as starting to settle into the nooks and crannies.
Final step is Solvaset. Same procedure of brushing it on, and letting it do it's job till it starts to dry, then I carefully give it the Qtip treatment.

Like I said, I've never had any issues using my system with Indy Cal decals.

Here's two cars that were decaled with Indy Cal decals and my method:





Joel
wildbill426
_VISITCOMMUNITY
Connecticut, United States
Joined: December 08, 2006
KitMaker: 403 posts
Auto Modeler: 25 posts
Posted: Monday, October 26, 2020 - 02:19 AM UTC
Hi Joel: Thanks for the help. I didn't mean to sound negative; the decals are very good, just different. What clear paints have you used over them, and have you found any that didn't play well with the decals?
Joel_W
Staff MemberAssociate Editor
AUTOMODELER
_VISITCOMMUNITY
New York, United States
Joined: December 04, 2010
KitMaker: 11,666 posts
Auto Modeler: 2,974 posts
Posted: Sunday, November 01, 2020 - 12:29 PM UTC
Bill,
I didn't take your post as negative, but rather just stating what you experienced. My decaling procedures have solved a lot of issues I've had over the years as there's just so many variables to decals these days. And as I said, I kind of stole Paul Budzik's method with a little adjustment here and there.

As for clear coats, I've used Testors Glosscoat and Dullcoat, Mr. Color lacquer Glosscoat, hated all the Alcad Clears as none ever worked for me. I've never used a rattle can so I haven't tried any of the Tamiya clears. For me lacquer based gloss coats are full proof and super consistent.

Joel