Here's the new place to view the progress at...
Take one '66 el camino kit and one '69 charger kit and you get this, the one ma mopar never made!






The charge roof is removed as well as the trunk, then the '66 el camino is removed form that kit and grafted onto the charger body...had to remove an 1/8" from the width of the chevy roof to fit the charger body just right...

More progress, the wings are reinstalled and need to be smoothed and blended- I filled the origonal fuel filler area since I'm thinking a side mount would be better...time will tell...


Sanded and blended more and gave it a radius in both rear corners...still needs more smoothing and inside wing filling...


...she's gettin there...

Sorry, I forgot the chassis/interior shot. The interior tub was cut behind the front seats and a flat wall was added.


A temp bed floor was added, but I don't much like it....consider it a reference...

Stretch the top more and one could do a wagon...Hmmmmm...eh, that's another build!

Wow, very very cool project Bob.

Bob, that Chargamino has Joe Dirt written all over it.
Very nice custom work so far.

Hermon

Thanks guys...when are you guys going to try one? It's more time consuming than anything else. I've seen your handy work...this isn't out of your reach, and it's fun making something totally different.

So far the "name" is the only thing I can't seem to figure out;
- El chargo
-Ramchero
-Loadrunner{that would be for a plymouth actually}
...any other thoughts?....

More progress...for those who have never tried this sorta thing, you'll note I frequently paint and semi sand off the primer...this is for two reasons;
1- the primer shows flaws that the eyes can't easily see without paint.
2- the primer acts as a filler for very minor low spots or cracks...very minor.
I like using paint as a small crack filler...brush it on the needed area, prime to see if it filled enough and redo as needed. This would only be for tight areas that you can't easily fill and sand or for paper thin cracks in tight areas...otherwise I use filler.
Just for references I'm using squadron green filler, use what you like or can easily get.
I just wet sanded the top this morning to knock down some of the marks on the top that weren't smooth or well rounded and filled in the inner wing panels behind the rear window area.
This is why a large can of auto primer is a good idea to have around, since priming and wet sanding the body often to get a smooth surface lends to a good paint job.
I used to simply prime and paint, then wet sand...why rework the already painted semi smooth surface when it's easier to get a great base before ya paint....makes things smoother this way and a better finish.

Oh, have to add this...the very reason I like to use any kind of bottle paint to fill is for when you use filler. Ever notice that the area just sanded looks smooth, but after you wash it off - you are washing the model off, right? you may see pin holes or lines that weren't there before? That dust from sanding makes great "loose" filler, but it's the kind that doesn't stick! I always use a trickle of water over the model, and a soft tooth brush to clean things off. When dry, prime and look at what's there..or not there...and rework as needed. A small brush and some bottle paint is an easy way to fill those really tiny lines from sanding or pin holes in the filler. Prime afterwards and recheck. The primer will be your barrier for the final paint job whether it's enamel, lacquer, or acrylic...no worries about lifting, so long as you clean and prime every time!

Very interesting project build. What is the bed going to look like?

what about, "Elco Change-o", ok, sorry 'bout that

I bought some model master "vinyl top" paint the other day...this is the "2nd part with texture"...1st part is just paint. White is all that's offered @ the LHS.
Destructions say hold 2 feet away and shake up and down{I'll assume, the can} and do 1-2 light coats...here's what we get 1st try-


Light coats is a must since this stuff can clump up easily...I can see it working but it'll take a few more shots of practice to get it even. I plan on top coating in a flat black. The practice cab is just a slow work in progress of an early 2 ton semi tractor, so stripping it won't be a hassle.

I've never tried this product before. Keep us posted as to results.
I wonder if stippling on Dr.Microtools Supreme Model Putty red (or another similar product), by hand with a brush will provide an adequate texture. I've never tried this before either

I've got Mr surfacer 500 and was going to try that for the top...I'll try the spray again and my origonal idea and see which works better......

More progress lately so I'd thought I'd share. Here's the bed half done...the tan is paint for simple fine filling around the wheelwells and I had just dropped in the green filler for radiusing the corners inside...still needs that rounded and then I need to add the corrogated "bumps" in the walls and floor for stiffening like the real ones had.

Still working on her, but I've had troubles...seems the bed sides didn't heve enough support so every time I went and sanded the filler to round it, I'd create new cracks in the filler..after 4 times of redoing it I figured it out...I just put in 15min epoxy on both sides of the outer bed pieces to make it rigid...I wasn't pushing hard when I sanded but it obiously was enough to cause me trouble.
Note to all, if your going to puyt some filler and curve your bed sides youd be wise to shore up the outer walls so this doesn't happen to you!

Great work so far bob i have been following the build, keep up the good work.

Here's something new...Mr surfacer 500 applied with a stubby brush...thoughts?

Hey Bob,
I’ve been following the build and it looks great, enjoy each posting. Sorry about the bed, sounds like you figured it out. As to the “Mr. Surfacer”, are you going for a vinyl top…if so it looks ruff. My I suggest using masking tape. Lay it out just as you have it now. It also looks to scale and holds up for years. I’ve done it twice without any problems. Hang in there…the bed will work out as will the body.

Happy Modeling,
Joe

Yup going for a vinyl top. The bed is far better now with the addition of the epoxy..no more flexing{was driving me nuts - and to quote the wife, that ain't a far trip}. I agree, the surface is alittle too textured so some sanding is in order.

I agree with Joe...give the masking tape a try for the vinyl top. I have, somewhere in my back issue stash, an article in either Scale Auto Enthusiast or Car Modeler magazine that outlines the technique. I will see if I can dig it up.

I have a modeling buddy who uses Tamiya Flat Black (XF-1) shot unthinned through his airbrush at pressure higher than normal to replicate vinyl top texture. He sprays several separate "mist coats" over the surface from about 12-14 inches away from the model, gradually building up to full coverage. The unthinned paint coupled with the higher pressure and distance create a very realistic vinyl texture. I've also heard of this being done with regular model enamels, but the Tamiya paint has the advantage of being easily removed while still wet, if you don't like the look.

HTH.

-YL

Yeah, in good light it looked as if it had a bunch of rust under the top...at least this gave me a perspective for another type of build....I sanded the stuff off and took it back down to bare top. The masking tape thing scares me alittle with the possibilty of it lifting off later...are folks gluing the tape on or what?
I still have my "vinyl top texture spray" that wasn't too bad...may try that next.

IIRC, the "proper technique" is to apply the masking tape over clean, bare plastic, then burnish it down and paint it. You're supposed to use a good, old-fashioned yellow or tan masking tape, not the blue or green removable "painter's tape". When I first learned of this trick back in the mid-1980s, I think the only kind of masking tape available was the old-fashioned kind!

The reason I mention the "proper technique" is because I applied my last masking tape vinyl top over paint, after the model was assembled...





and it hasn't lifted. Yet. But I'm fully expecting it to in a few months.

BTW, if I can find that article, I'll scan it for you and send it to you via email.

-YL

...that's what would worry me. Eons ago, when building the G scale train stuff, I once used MEK to bond the plastic laminates on the curved roof of a box switcher{different types of plastic used on the build - MEK was supposed to bond both types} and 2-3 months afterward it started to separate and curl....Uhg!!! Never again did I do that!
Hey, did you clear coat over the tape to seal it?
I'd love that article should you ever find it.

I bet you thought I forgot all about this one - huh? Nope.
She's getting closer!




...still a couple of lil things...like the motor and trans...exhaust...maybe a clear coat and polish...

Awesome piece of work so far Bob.

Thank you sir-
To do it over again I'd make the bed as part of the body for a better fit. I also had to really trim off the front of the dash to fit the under part of the cowl since I changed that with the el camino top/winshield addition. I also had to grind off the back end of the tail lights to the point it went "thru" for clearance sake, but a thin layer of transparent red sheet fixed that.