I just love how that rusted finish has come out D!

Amazing work!

You didn't apply salt to the hairspray before overspraying with paint?

Will you be getting down to sandown for the model show this weekend?

Thanks Russ. I looked at the salt chipping on the engine stand which is 1/8 scale, and it just didn’t look right on the 1/24 car body.

I am going to Expo tomorrow, should be there most of the day. Are you going for a look?

Cheers, D

I'm hoping to go Monday

A bit of tinkering on the stock version, stripped the chrome off the intake manifold, carb and fuel pump.


Did some trimming to get the intake manifold to fit nicely, and worked on the belt/pulley/alternator/radiator hose sub assembly. Note the ejector pin divots in the radiator hoses (circled).



I found some nice images of an engine bay, and I am going to have a go at doing some extra detailing on this one. Plan is to bend up some styrene rod to make the ignition lead conduit, then drill in some fine copper wire and paint it up to represent the wires themselves.


Then everything went off to the paint shop for primer.




Cheers, D

D,
Looking real good. You're certainly focused 100% on all these builds. I just can't concentrate on more then one build at a time.

Joel

Thanks Joel. Trying out some new techniques and products on this project gives it another level of interest for me, I'm really keen to see how far I can take it.

I spent a little bit of time sanding and trimming and shimming to get the two body parts to fit as good as I could without compromising the profiles. I glued them and put some weight on top overnight and I'm satisfied with the basic result, now on to some sprue goo and fine sanding to get it nice and neat for the gloss black which will show up every little fault.




Cheers, D

Looking really good from here Damian!

PS. Thoughts on the show?

I though it was pretty good-lots of variety, definitely lots of cars this year and figurines.

Looks amazing D. The hair spray chipping is stunning. Have tried, with AK-interactives chipping effect fluid, on some winter camo. Works fine, but often the paint comes of in big chunks, not as subtle and natural looking as what you've created. Will try hair spray, next time around.

Thanks Jesper, I appreciate the feedback a lot!

From what I have seen and read, the trick is to apply the hairspray over a flat finish like Dullcote to give greater control of the paint being removed. If you apply it over a glossy finish it just comes off in large areas as you said. I found that the paint was a bit stubborn in places, so I dipped a Q-tip in X-20A and rubbed a small area to get it started, but I would rather have to work on it a bit longer and harder to get the control, than to have it come off too easily.

Cheers, D

D,
amazing work on getting the top to really fit that well.
Joel

I don't understand why they didn't make the vertical seam at the door jamb instead of in the middle of the panel. Nice job on both of them so far.

Thanks David. I was contemplating exactly the same question while I was fettling away furiously. Why didn’t they? It would make perfect sense.

Cheers, D

Some more work on the stock build, finished off cleaning up the join on the 2 main body parts, then spent some time cleaning up, aligning and gluing the front panels so that the nose can be easily lifted off in one piece.


Almost ready for primer on the body now.

Cheers, D

D,
Outstanding progress. Looking forward to seeing some primer laid down on the body.

Joel

Ask and ye shall receive



Plus a start on the engine as a bonus!

Cheers, D

D,
The body really looks good in black Primer. And the bonus of the engine sure was a surprise.

Next wish, some color on the body.

Joel

What color did you use on the engine, looks a lot like Interior Green?

Hi David. It is Tamiya Acrylic XF-23 Light Blue with a drop of XF-5 Flat Green. I looked at a bunch of reference photos of Flathead V8s from that era and the colours were all different, so I just eyeballed the mix to something I liked!

Moving to my plan for detailing the stock engine bay, I got some 1.5mm Evergreen rod and gave it a swim in some boiling water for a few seconds, then carefully bent it and held it until it cooled and it held its shape nicely. This will be the conduit for the ignition leads. It looks slightly over scale but I can live with that. I will drill holes in it and use some 0.5mm copper wire (painted gold) for the leads themselves.



Well, that's the best laid plan, lets see how far "astray" I can send it!

I've ordered some braided line in various diameters to run some fuel lines and other wiring.

Cheers, D

D,
I'm really looking forward to your engine detailing. Should really kick up the engine bay a few notches.

Joel

Ok, my cunning plan seems to be working with one small block. The beautifully represented spark plugs moulded into the valve cover are the same diameter as the copper wire I need to use as the ignition leads, 0.5mm, and you just can't drill a 0.6mm clearance hole into a 0.5mm diameter section. Simple mathematics tells me this!

The first thing I needed to do was carefully shave off the tops of the spark plugs down to a point where I could mark a centre point and then drill the clearance hole. Next was to dry fit the conduit and mark the entry points for the leads, then angle drill into the conduit.

The 0.5mm copper wire was bent around a small handle to get a nice curve, then trimmed to length and wrestled into place. All dry fitted at this stage but it's looking somewhat like I planned.



I will tidy up the spark plug ends and a drop of paint once the wires are glued in will look the part. I have left the conduit on the LHS of the engine over-length because it actually bends up and into the firewall.


The RHS conduit stops between cylinders 3 and 4 and the lead for cylinder 4 actually comes straight out of the end of the conduit.


Here is a shot of the RHS showing the nice spark plug detail prior to surgery.


And a quick shot with the belt/pulley assembly in place to make sure everything still goes together.


Given that I still need to do some bending on the LHS conduit into the firewall, this will all need to be assembled after the engine is actually in its final resting position on the frame.

Cheers, D

WOW, love it. Any reason to stick with the 0.5 instead of going down to 0.4?

Thanks Mark. I did actually think about that, and looked at drilling a 0.4mm clearance hole for 0.3mm copper wire, but it was too hard to get a mark dead centre on the top of the plugs and with 0.1mm tolerance it just wiped out the top of the plug anyway. The 0.3mm wire looked a lot too small as well.

LHS done.



My plan is to put a drop of medium CA in the hole, push in the wire and then draw it out slightly to create a tapered shape on the end to represent the plug, then a drop of white paint.

Cheers, D

Hi Damian,
Read the story on the front page and enjoyed it! Loved the tie in with the Beatles tune.

Dunno if you're into Facebook, but there is a page called "Weathered Models" Where some guys do amazing dio's of junkyards and old cars in dilapidated conditions as well a military models and scenery. Some so good you can't tell them from photos of the real thing.

Gaz

Thanks for checking in Gaz. Yes, I'm on the "Weathered Models" FB page, been following it for a while. Some incredible talent there for sure.

Cheers, D

Great looking engine details.
Love the engine color. A great color, for further weathering.