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Revell Datsun 240Z
VonCuda
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North Carolina, United States
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Posted: Friday, January 29, 2010 - 01:31 PM UTC
Ok, I've got one month free between airplane campaigns so I thought I'd do something a little different. My first car that I bought when I was 14 years old was a 1971 Datsun 240Z. My kids bought me this model kit for Christmas a couple of years ago so I figured it was time to do something with it.




I've submitted an inbox review already tonight. I've also started the engine and suspension. I'll post some progress pic's tomorrow if we still have electricity. We're expecting 15 inches of snow here tonight and tomorrow so our power will probably go out...........again.


Hermon
KoSprueOne
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Myanmar
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Posted: Friday, January 29, 2010 - 01:36 PM UTC
NICE . subscribed!




VonCuda
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North Carolina, United States
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Posted: Friday, January 29, 2010 - 02:59 PM UTC
The front and rear suspension are done. I've used 4 different colors of MM metal paints to try and define the individual components. Can't really tell from the pic's though.
The engine is also together. Believe it or not, this is pretty close to the original color, though only the block and timing cover were painted, not the head or valve cover. I chose to do the whole engine........cause it's mine.




I'll do a bit of sanding on the body tonight. Looks like it'll take a good 4 to 5 hours to actually get the shell good enough to paint. Lots of flash and seem lines everywhere. Tomorrow I'll start on the undercarriage and interior.


Hermon


PS: Thinking of going with the really deep, dark orange original color. Dunno yet. Any suggestions?
AussieReg
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AUTOMODELER
#007
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Victoria, Australia
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Posted: Friday, January 29, 2010 - 03:45 PM UTC

Quoted Text


PS: Thinking of going with the really deep, dark orange original color. Dunno yet. Any suggestions?



Olive Drab brother, hehe !!

Really nice work so far Hermon. I'm starting to look more at the old Chevies in the stash as I spend more time over here. Looking forwards to the DD Campaign, it will be my first civy car in 20 years or more !!

Cheers, D
VonCuda
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Posted: Saturday, January 30, 2010 - 10:54 AM UTC
I hear ya D. As much as I love airplanes, I just can't do them all the time anymore. The more cars I build, the more fun I have.

Thanks for lookin' in.
Hermon
VonCuda
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North Carolina, United States
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Posted: Saturday, January 30, 2010 - 03:36 PM UTC
Got the engine finished tonight. Yes, that is the right color for the air cleaner housing. I may add some plug wires later......dunno yet.




I also sprayed some color on the inner fender wells and firewall. I'm going with Model Masters Champaign Gold Metallic. Not an original 240Z color, but looking around on the paint shelf I didn't really see anything else I liked and I don't have enough orange paint to mix up the factory dark burnt orange color.


Hermon
Steve1479
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Ontario, Canada
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Posted: Saturday, January 30, 2010 - 03:41 PM UTC
I'll be watching this, looks good so far.

BTW I'd go with the classic Datsun 240 Mandarin Orange colour =]
Yoni_Lev
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Washington, United States
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Posted: Saturday, January 30, 2010 - 11:00 PM UTC

As much as I am a diehard American iron fan, I will admit to having a soft spot for the early Z-car. As such, I'm looking forward to watching this build. I don't have the kit in my stash, but it looks like a nice one, and I'll look for your inbox review to be posted...soon?

-YL
VonCuda
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North Carolina, United States
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Posted: Sunday, January 31, 2010 - 11:33 AM UTC
Thanks Yoni, and the review is up now. I have the Hasegawa 240Z kit as well and at $35.00 it doesn't have nearly the detail as this cheap Revell kit does. Doesn't even have an engine.


Something interesting I hadn't noticed until now. The oil filter in the kit is in completely the wrong place. The kit supplies a remote oil filter mounted on the passenger side inner fender well. Also, the battery is mounted sideways on the firewall where as on the actual car it is mounted front to back, on a tray. It's supposed to be accessed by flipping up one of the little access doors beside the hood, on the fender.



I'll probably add some oil lines to this remote filter later on just to make it look somewhat legitimate.


Hermon
VonCuda
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North Carolina, United States
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Posted: Sunday, January 31, 2010 - 01:21 PM UTC
A quick shot of the dash and gauge decals. I messed up the tach decal (second large gauge from the left), but fortunatly this kit offers not one, but two sets of decals. One set is for a stock Z and the other is a rally gauge option. The decal setting solution is still wet in the photo but once everything is dry I'll put a drop of Future over each pod. Kind of a shame that all that detail will go unseen in the finished build because of the angle of the dash.




Hermon
Yoni_Lev
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Washington, United States
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Posted: Sunday, January 31, 2010 - 05:02 PM UTC

Ok, that sinks it. I have to add one of these to the stash!

-YL


Hwa-Rang
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Kobenhavn, Denmark
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Posted: Sunday, January 31, 2010 - 11:09 PM UTC
Looks pretty good so far Hermon.
KoSprueOne
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Myanmar
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Posted: Monday, February 01, 2010 - 01:13 PM UTC

Quoted Text


Ok, that sinks it. I have to add one of these to the stash!

-YL





I was thinking the same thing




VonCuda
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North Carolina, United States
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Posted: Monday, February 01, 2010 - 01:19 PM UTC
Thanks guys.

Yoni, there just so happens to be one of these kits on Ebay right now for $8.00.



Ok, major construction is done with the engine sitting in the bay, firewall installed as well as the radiator. Interior is done...just gotta set the dash in place.



You'll notice the paint is no longer MM Champaign Gold Metallic. The paint was doing some really goofy stuff through my airbrush so she's now wearing Tamiya Gold Flake.


Next pic is a shot of the body at the quarter window. This is one of the major drawbacks to this kit. Really bad seam lines in the worst possible places. Usually not a big deal to fix but this one is only about 1mm from the 240Z emblem above the quarter panel. Should be fun to make that one go away.






Hermon
AussieReg
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#007
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Victoria, Australia
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Posted: Monday, February 01, 2010 - 02:11 PM UTC

Quoted Text

Thanks guys.
Ok, major construction is done with the engine sitting in the bay, firewall installed as well as the radiator. Interior is done...just gotta set the dash in place.

Next pic is a shot of the body at the quarter window. This is one of the major drawbacks to this kit. Really bad seam lines in the worst possible places. Usually not a big deal to fix but this one is only about 1mm from the 240Z emblem above the quarter panel. Should be fun to make that one go away.



Yeah, but Hermon we are all in awe of your "mad skills", so we will accept nothing less than a flawless finish here mate !!
old-dragon
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Illinois, United States
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Posted: Monday, February 01, 2010 - 02:43 PM UTC
Oooh, how'd I miss this one! Cool car..reminds me of when my dad bought a new datsun 510 sedan...took it in one day to have something done and came home with a 280Z 2+2. I flipped out because I thought he traded the sedan in, but the 280 was only a loaner - bummer! He did buy a new motorcycle the following month...ah, the freedoms of divorce I guess{mom hated cycles}.
You nail down a color yet?...gold wasn't it?
Yoni_Lev
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Washington, United States
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Posted: Monday, February 01, 2010 - 04:50 PM UTC

Quoted Text

This is one of the major drawbacks to this kit. Really bad seam lines in the worst possible places. Usually not a big deal to fix but this one is only about 1mm from the 240Z emblem above the quarter panel. Should be fun to make that one go away.



Ouch. That's an awful place for a mold line. I hope you can get rid of it without damaging the emblem. Ever think about making a few tinfoil copies of the emblem in case you do damage it?

BTW, love the new gold.

-YL
VonCuda
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Posted: Tuesday, February 02, 2010 - 01:12 PM UTC
Ever think about making a few tinfoil copies of the emblem in case you do damage it?

BTW, love the new gold.

-YL

You'll have to explain that one. I've never tried it but it sounds like a good idea to try out in the future.






OK, anyone know what these holes in the roll pan are for? Me either, they don't belong there.






Ahhhhhhh.......much better.




Test fitted the front clip tonight. The body is warped quit a bit and made some ugly gaps in the body/front clip area. I put the shell in some hot water, put in the front clip, then layed it flat on the table and covered it with a small amount of weight here and ther. After a couple of hours she's nice and true.



Hermon
AussieReg
Staff MemberAssociate Editor
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#007
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Posted: Tuesday, February 02, 2010 - 01:39 PM UTC

Quoted Text


OK, anyone know what these holes in the roll pan are for? Me either, they don't belong there.
Hermon



They are for the rearward firing lazer guided heat seeking incendiaries that go on the Olive Drab version that your are SUPPOSED to be making !!

Cheers, D
KoSprueOne
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Myanmar
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Posted: Tuesday, February 02, 2010 - 02:07 PM UTC
wow, nice progress dude


Quoted Text


OK, anyone know what these holes in the roll pan are for? Me either, they don't belong there.



Hermon


Maybe for mounting the rear bumper in the correct position ?



Yoni_Lev, excellent advice! You burnish down foil over the emblem to make a "mold". If you accidently damage it during that seam line elimination round, you can melt bits of sprue or drop some epoxy into the created mold, then replace the old one. (talk about run-on sentences)

silicone gasketing material from a tube can also be useful for making quick, 1 shot (or several) molds




Yoni_Lev
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Posted: Wednesday, February 03, 2010 - 07:51 AM UTC

Quoted Text

Yoni_Lev, excellent advice! You burnish down foil over the emblem to make a "mold". If you accidently damage it during that seam line elimination round, you can melt bits of sprue or drop some epoxy into the created mold, then replace the old one. (talk about run-on sentences)

silicone gasketing material from a tube can also be useful for making quick, 1 shot (or several) molds



KSO hit the nail on the head. You simply use a small piece of tinfoil to make a mold of the emblem and fill it with 5-minute epoxy. When it's dry, trim the excess foil with a knife, sand the back smooth and presto...instant replacement badge. And yes, silicone can also be used to make a mold for epoxy or liquid sprue cast parts. Just pop the pieces out of the mold, add some Bare Metal Foil and you're done.

This method works well with badges, emblems and other raised details (marker lights, for example). I've done some body scripts this way, but it's very tricky because the resulting parts are small and quite fragile.

-YL
VonCuda
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Posted: Wednesday, February 03, 2010 - 01:03 PM UTC
KSO, you're right about the holes. They WERE for mounting the rear bumper. I hate you.

Yoni, I've never heard of the foil and moulding technique but I understand what you're saying. Awsome idea and I'll surely be using it in the future.

No working at the bench tonight. Too tired after work.



Hermon
VonCuda
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Posted: Wednesday, February 03, 2010 - 01:25 PM UTC
Oh, and KSO, when I say I "hate" you I mean it in a man to man friendly kind of way. Like......."dude, you have an awsome big screen TV. I hate you".


Hermon
KoSprueOne
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Posted: Wednesday, February 03, 2010 - 01:29 PM UTC
haha, no worries Bro, I know what you mean




old-dragon
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Posted: Wednesday, February 03, 2010 - 02:36 PM UTC

Quoted Text

KSO, you're right about the holes. They WERE for mounting the rear bumper. I hate you. Hermon



Awhhhhhh..........Rookie!!!!! You mean you didn't read the destructions all the way thru?! Mad modeling skills 101.......
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