Cars
Discuss all types of automotive modeling here.
Tamiya 1/12 Nissan Fairlady 240ZG Build
foenetik
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Rhode Island, United States
Joined: September 07, 2014
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Posted: Tuesday, January 06, 2015 - 08:57 PM UTC

Quoted Text

Just use a bit of left over chrome sticker from the mirror one. Easy to trim with the raised edge.



yeah, thats the plan now. thanks! hows yours coming along?
VonCuda
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North Carolina, United States
Joined: November 28, 2005
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Posted: Wednesday, January 07, 2015 - 06:06 AM UTC
Tony the whole car looks great, but that carpet in the back turned out awesome. I like all the little touches you've put into this build. Looking forward to seeing some paint go on the body.
Hwa-Rang
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Kobenhavn, Denmark
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Posted: Wednesday, January 07, 2015 - 01:18 PM UTC
Looks amazing so far.
foenetik
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Rhode Island, United States
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Posted: Thursday, January 08, 2015 - 12:04 AM UTC

Quoted Text

Tony the whole car looks great, but that carpet in the back turned out awesome. I like all the little touches you've put into this build. Looking forward to seeing some paint go on the body.



Thanks! much appreciated. Yeah i cant wait for the body paint to be over. thats the hardest part for me. especially with such a large surface. Hopefully it comes out decent.
foenetik
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Rhode Island, United States
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Posted: Thursday, January 08, 2015 - 12:04 AM UTC

Quoted Text

Looks amazing so far.



Thank you!
foenetik
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Rhode Island, United States
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Posted: Tuesday, January 13, 2015 - 05:01 AM UTC
small update. not the best pics...ill take better ones later

but i made a small engine harness. the 1:1 car i referenced didnt have a lot of wires so i just wanted to represent it a bit.

added battery cables:


added wires to alt:


added wires and connectors to coil. had some left over parts from the F1 build. they are rod ends but tehy work as connectors. woop.



still painting the body.
Hwa-Rang
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Kobenhavn, Denmark
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Posted: Tuesday, January 13, 2015 - 11:14 AM UTC
Wonderful details.
c5flies
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California, United States
Joined: October 21, 2007
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Posted: Saturday, January 24, 2015 - 12:59 AM UTC
Beautiful work Tony, all the small details that you are giving attention to really make this one shine
foenetik
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Rhode Island, United States
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Posted: Saturday, January 24, 2015 - 04:00 AM UTC
thanks! still working on the body. i had to get 2 more cans of spray. everything else is painted and assembled though. woo!
foenetik
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Rhode Island, United States
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Posted: Friday, February 13, 2015 - 12:53 AM UTC
finally got my paint! they sent me silver and with all the snow the last 3 weeks it kept getting delayed. i should have this wrapped up shortly. snow. grumble grumble.
RiccardoB
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Canada
Joined: February 09, 2015
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Posted: Friday, February 20, 2015 - 02:16 AM UTC
Hi Tony, I am following your wonderful built with attention, as I am beginning again to fiddle with plastic after many many years! I understand that Tamiya supplies vinyl cables for this kit, but if you need more of them...where would you go to buy them? I'm asking because I found this kit, Rover Mini Cooper 1/12 by Tamiya but there are no cables, the kit is from 1992. I would like to try do some details on the engine as you do!
Thanks a lot!
foenetik
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Rhode Island, United States
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Posted: Saturday, February 21, 2015 - 09:08 AM UTC

Quoted Text

Hi Tony, I am following your wonderful built with attention, as I am beginning again to fiddle with plastic after many many years! I understand that Tamiya supplies vinyl cables for this kit, but if you need more of them...where would you go to buy them? I'm asking because I found this kit, Rover Mini Cooper 1/12 by Tamiya but there are no cables, the kit is from 1992. I would like to try do some details on the engine as you do!
Thanks a lot!



thanks for following!

well, i know detailmaster.com has some under the radiator hose section. you can also use wire. to be honest, wire is better because it doesnt kink at sharp bends. and you can kind of mold it how you want. so just go to any electronics store and get the appropriate gauge. if you want to get it in bulk you can get it on ebay as well. its typically under jewlery wire. depending on the scale youll get different gauges. hope it helps!
RiccardoB
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Canada
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Posted: Friday, February 27, 2015 - 11:18 AM UTC
Hi Tony, thanks for your help! During the weekend I will go to a store called Radio Shack, I was told they are lot of different wires to choose from.
All the best,
Riccardo
foenetik
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Rhode Island, United States
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Posted: Friday, February 27, 2015 - 12:39 PM UTC

Quoted Text

Hi Tony, thanks for your help! During the weekend I will go to a store called Radio Shack, I was told they are lot of different wires to choose from.
All the best,
Riccardo



They sure do. You can also use solder as wiring as well. You just need to paint it after. Solder comes in very small gauges so sometimes it works better for the scale. Best of luck finding what you need!
RiccardoB
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Canada
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Posted: Saturday, February 28, 2015 - 12:53 AM UTC
Did you paint every small detail, all the silver screws using a brush?
foenetik
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Rhode Island, United States
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Posted: Saturday, February 28, 2015 - 06:15 AM UTC

Quoted Text

Did you paint every small detail, all the silver screws using a brush?



Yeah with a brush. I didnt do the sides really because its just to add contrast. Its just the tops. A normal onlooker wont even notice. Just judges and rivet counters
foenetik
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Rhode Island, United States
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Posted: Wednesday, March 18, 2015 - 09:32 AM UTC
its finally been warm enough to paint! just the outside took a whole can. they need to make larger cans for their big scale stuff hahaha.

got 2 more cans on their way to finish. then clearcoat and ill be wrapping this up! what a fun build.

foenetik
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Rhode Island, United States
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Posted: Wednesday, April 01, 2015 - 06:06 AM UTC
so... bad news. i had it all painted and cleared (with future). let it dry 48 hours. i got a tip to wet sand it to smooth the surface and now its got cloudy patches EVERYWHERE. it almost looks like the clear reacted to the water and sanding. i dont know what to do to fix it. i know im running into the deadline of time allowed but im having a model emergency. anyone got any ideas? i can take pics. im very sad right now.
Kevlar06
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Washington, United States
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Posted: Wednesday, April 01, 2015 - 11:02 AM UTC
Tony,
I'm primarily an Aeroscale watcher, but occasionally build a car model, and have been following your thread (I used to own a 1978 280Z 2+2). I've had similar issues with cars and aircraft using Future as a top coat. If you wet sanded and "white spots" showed up, I recommend rinsing the car body under the faucet to get all the loose sanding debris off, let it thoroughly dry for 24 hours, then re-coat it with Future, and the spots should disappear. The white spots are caused by the Future "puddling" on the surface, and then not drying evenly-- the application of water then causes it to cloud. A trick I use when applying Future is to hang the model vertically using a coat hanger, applying a heavy coat of Future, then "wicking" off the excess using a rolled up paper towel, running it along the bottom edges until the "dripping" stops. Then leave it alone for several hours. This ensures a thin, even coat of future, If that doesn't work, soak the body in household Ammonia for an hour, and it will remove the future top coat, rinse it in cold water, and you can apply another coat of future in 24 hours or so.
VR, Russ
Kevlar06
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Washington, United States
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Posted: Wednesday, April 01, 2015 - 11:16 AM UTC
Tony,
One word of warning about what I said in the post above using Ammonia to strip Future-- Ammonia works just fine in removing the top coat of future, if the paint underneath is enamel or lacquer based-- I don't know, but I sense you're using Tamiya spray cans-- I think they are lacquer based-- if not, and you used acrylic based paint, the Ammonia will remove acrylic paint, and you'll have to repaint the base coat too. But, it at least gives you the opportunity to try again!
VR, Russ
foenetik
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Rhode Island, United States
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Posted: Thursday, April 02, 2015 - 01:19 AM UTC

Quoted Text

Tony,
One word of warning about what I said in the post above using Ammonia to strip Future-- Ammonia works just fine in removing the top coat of future, if the paint underneath is enamel or lacquer based-- I don't know, but I sense you're using Tamiya spray cans-- I think they are lacquer based-- if not, and you used acrylic based paint, the Ammonia will remove acrylic paint, and you'll have to repaint the base coat too. But, it at least gives you the opportunity to try again!
VR, Russ



thanks for the info! i just washed it to get the debris off and the water made it mostly look green so im thinking anther coat may do the trick. yeah i know i can strip it but this part took me a couple weeks to get to and the build has taken me a while. so i was trying to avoid that but its better to do it right than rush it out.
foenetik
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Rhode Island, United States
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Posted: Thursday, April 02, 2015 - 01:43 AM UTC
ok so it looks like respraying will work. Russ you are my hero.

so, what do i do about orange peel. i have laquer clear, should i use that instead once i get the base of future down? i have polishing compound but i didnt think it would take down orange peel.is what happened an issue with future, or something i did?
Kevlar06
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Washington, United States
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Posted: Thursday, April 02, 2015 - 07:07 AM UTC
Tony,
Hmmm...I've never had a problem with orange peel with future, I usually spray Future straight from the bottle, without thinning at 18-25 PSI, or I dip the model part completely into the future and then wick off the excess as explained above. You might try decreasing or increasing pressure to try and get more future on the model. Don't "mist coat" future. Orange peel is usually caused by the paint (or in this case Future) drying slightly before it reaches the surface of the model, or the presence of moisture on the model or in the AB. By getting closer to the model with a heavier coat, you eliminate this drying action. Future is self leveling, so it should spread out on the surface pretty well. I actually try and get it to "drip" off the car. As you are discovering, repeated coats of Future will often fix earlier problems-- the one thing repeated coats won't fix are blemishes and particles stuck under the paint, or those that drift onto the Future coat as it's drying. I have a rack with a large plastic bin that I can place over the car body to keep dust out as it's drying. Future doesn't like water as it's curing, and you should really let it dry for 24-48 hours before doing anything with it-- High humidity will often cause the white spots to appear as moisture condenses on the model (this can also cause "orange peel", so try and apply Future in a warm-dry place and use a moisture trap on your AB. By the way-- I lived for a year in Newport/Middletown while attending the Naval War College-- RI is a great place! VR, Russ
foenetik
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Rhode Island, United States
Joined: September 07, 2014
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Posted: Thursday, April 02, 2015 - 07:23 AM UTC

Quoted Text

Tony,
Hmmm...I've never had a problem with orange peel with future, I usually spray Future straight from the bottle, without thinning at 18-25 PSI, or I dip the model part completely into the future and then wick off the excess as explained above. You might try decreasing or increasing pressure to try and get more future on the model. Don't "mist coat" future. Orange peel is usually caused by the paint (or in this case Future) drying slightly before it reaches the surface of the model, or the presence of moisture on the model or in the AB. By getting closer to the model with a heavier coat, you eliminate this drying action. Future is self leveling, so it should spread out on the surface pretty well. I actually try and get it to "drip" off the car. As you are discovering, repeated coats of Future will often fix earlier problems-- the one thing repeated coats won't fix are blemishes and particles stuck under the paint, or those that drift onto the Future coat as it's drying. I have a rack with a large plastic bin that I can place over the car body to keep dust out as it's drying. Future doesn't like water as it's curing, and you should really let it dry for 24-48 hours before doing anything with it-- High humidity will often cause the white spots to appear as moisture condenses on the model (this can also cause "orange peel", so try and apply Future in a warm-dry place and use a moisture trap on your AB. By the way-- I lived for a year in Newport/Middletown while attending the Naval War College-- RI is a great place! VR, Russ



Oh, im definitely mist coating. i thought you had to put it on with lighter coats and build it up. no wonder it took so many coats to get where iwas, and it wasnt even that smooth. i think im also too far. i usually spray 12" or so away. so if you spray it heavy, do you have to worry about drips? i saw what you said about wicking but what about those that dont make it to the bottom. thats what i was scared of. thanks for all this info btw. it really helps.

yeah i like RI, im in pawtucket. i love being so close to the beach, good sushi, and lobster!
Kevlar06
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Washington, United States
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Posted: Thursday, April 02, 2015 - 08:05 AM UTC
Tony,
Yep, 12 inches is probably too far away. I use mist coating for building up enamels and lacquers so they don't run, but it doesn't work well with Future because of it's self leveling properties. It's designed to be applied in heavy coats, and its fast drying. I recommend turning up the paint flow on your AB up and turning down the pressure to start. If you hang the model from a coat hanger, the Future will naturally drip off, and you can use the "wicking" method above to remove the excess, then just let it level on its own. There's a natural tendency of modelers to mess with it as its drying, because we see drips and streaks-- just ignore them and let it dry and level on its own. Once its thoroughly dry, if there are high spots, you can sand them and re-future. As to your question about clear coats-- I would give the future at least a week to dry before clear coating. I only have experience clear coating future with light coats of Testors lacquer clear gloss and Alclad Clear Kote in the round bottles (I prefer the Alclad unthinned)-- I'd be careful with anything else-- but give the Future plenty of time to harden-- lacquers are naturally caustic, and could cause problems with Future that is partially cured-- Humidity is again an issue-- Future takes longer to dry in humid climates (like RI or Washington where I live) so I recommend finding a warm dry place to let it cure. VR Russ