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Tamiya 1/12 Nissan Fairlady 240ZG Build
foenetik
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Rhode Island, United States
Joined: September 07, 2014
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Posted: Friday, October 31, 2014 - 09:40 AM UTC
Hello Everyone!

Going to start my Tamiya 1/12 Nissan Fairlady 240ZG Build and review here shortly. As mentioned this will be a build log and the formal review will follow shortly after its complete. I'll give some initial impressions prior to building. I've had a chance to open her up and check out the parts up close already and they are as expected with Tamiya's known quality. I cant wait to get it started, its pretty big and has some really well done details. I am going to model it after my co-workers 240Z. He's been building his for a while now (it's been his dream build), and he finally just finished it. I thought it would be a great surprise to present it to him once its done. It will have a daily driven look but still well maintained. I also plan do add some more details to the engine bay and wherever I see that it could use some detail. I may also do some kind of road or other surface and some other vignette details. We shall see when I get to that point.

I am new to Automodeler but I have been tinkering with cars most of my life and its my first love with modeling. I've been modeling for about a year since a 15 year break from my childhood. This is going to be a really fun build. I am going to take my time with it as I want it to come out like the reference photos I have (and I have a ton!). I hope you guys join me for the ride. I cant thank Tamiya, Kitmaker and Jim Starkweather enough for this opportunity. I look forward to being covered in styrene shavings, glue and paint!

Thanks for looking!
DaveCox
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England - South East, United Kingdom
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Posted: Friday, October 31, 2014 - 09:58 AM UTC
240z is the best car EVER to come out of Japan. I'll look forward to following the build!
c5flies
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California, United States
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Posted: Friday, October 31, 2014 - 02:02 PM UTC
I'm looking forward to this one too, Tony!
Hwa-Rang
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Kobenhavn, Denmark
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Posted: Sunday, November 02, 2014 - 11:22 PM UTC
Looking forward to following this build.
foenetik
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Rhode Island, United States
Joined: September 07, 2014
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Posted: Sunday, November 23, 2014 - 07:52 AM UTC
Apologize for the late start. Works been crazy lately... but I am finally underway.

I figure instead of front loading pictures of all the sprues, I would split them into the sections that I am working on. This way they will be relevant to the sub assemblies I am working on. Since there will some overlap, I will just show new ones on the new sections.

As I mentioned above, I am going to be modeling this model after my coworkers Z. It was his dream car build, and this also gives me a ton of real world reference. It wont be exact to his as this is the Street-Custom version so there will be a few differences but it will be close enough. Then, when its done im going to surprise him with it. I will be going for a weekend driven look on the parts. So it wont be showroom but it will be as well kept as a car can be. Showroom is nice and shiny but I find solace in a little bit of wear to give a model character. Plus it gives me a bit of wiggle room on 'oopsies'.

Having given all the parts a good once over for the photoshoot I have to say, thus far, this model lives up to Tamiya's outstanding quality. The only gripe I have with Tamiya, is the staples on the sprue bags. I wish they would change to tape to prevent scratched parts, but they do individually bag sprues so that's good. It has nice details on all the parts, no flash, and easy to follow instructions. Some of the nice extras on this kit are working doors, and hood. It has some nice engine details as well, like spark plug wires (they have ends that go inside the engine instead of just gluing tubing into a hole, but I will get to that later). There are some soft vinyl (plastic?) parts in the kit to simulate rubber/vinyl parts. The seats have a really nice texture to them to simulate the fabric used in that period. This kit also includes metal parts, like carb stacks and some nice photo etch. Seatbelts are included. Tamiya has a see through hood for this kit but I wont be using it as I want to leave the hood open so I'll just be painting it body color but I wanted to note its inclusion. All in all this should shape up to be a great build.

For this build I will be using Tamiya Paints, Alclad II Finishes, and some light oil washes as needed. Possibly a few pigments for those lost and forgotten corners of the engine bay. I have chosen to use Tamiya TS-9 (British Racing Green) for the body. This is the color of the reference car and is an actual color the car came in per my research.

Here is the reference car:





I have about 100 shots of the car so I should be able to replicate it pretty accurately. We will be beginning with the suspension as per Tamiya's 20 page instruction manual.

Suspension
Here are the sprues we will be dealing with:







Nice Rotor Detail:




Once I get some sub-assemblies completed I will post a few pics. I have a terrible habit of posting a ton of pics as I go, but I will keep them to just posting as I complete a sub-assembly. This will keep it less confusing, and possibly not as annoying. I always take lots of pics so if anyone wants to see any other ones just message me and I will be happy to send them to you.

I've put my other model aside to work solely on this as I realized I've had it for a little bit now and its time I get cracking. Plus I am excited to do this. Thanks again for joining me. Since I am new here, I just want to let everyone know that I am always open to criticism as well as suggestions. I am fairly new to modeling, and I know I have lots to learn. I will always listen to what others have to say.

Thanks!
foenetik
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Rhode Island, United States
Joined: September 07, 2014
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Posted: Sunday, November 30, 2014 - 08:35 PM UTC
Made progress on the suspension. Some things to note: the steering/suspenion is all workable. It comes with real metal springs, ball sockets on the components for proper suspension geometry, and the steering box has a nice gear setup so it rotates with the wheel. Its hard to show this in photos but its well thought out. All of the real cars rubber components are also rubber in the kit. For example the engine mounts and rubber boots. Its a well thought out detail.

One thing i changed from the OOB kit was the chrome. The rotors were chromed. Ive never seen chrome rotors and I felt it detracted from the realism of the kit. I used oven cleaner on all the chrome and will be painting with Alclad II finishes as needed. The chrome job was well done, it just didnt make sense for some of the parts to be chrome and it was easier to just strip it all and refinish. I used Alclad Steel on the rotors and Calipers.

Here are some of the components i completed:

Front Suspension with Rotors/Calipers




Detail of the rotor grooves


Steering box with working parts. The bar with the rubber ends toward the front moves horizontally, and causes the U joint to rotate.


The rear suspension is complete as well but with the way its made, it doesnt stand up so i will photo it once its attached to the car. I currently need to paint the unibody frame before i can proceed. The instructions call for body color, but i may use black textured coating to simulate the rubber undercoating my coworkers Z has. However, i may do body color as i like the contrast of the green and black. We shall see.
Szmann
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Netherlands Antilles
Joined: September 02, 2014
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Posted: Sunday, November 30, 2014 - 08:54 PM UTC
Hi, Tony, hi, guys.
Very nice detail, Tony. Keep up the good job Warm Regards.
Hwa-Rang
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Kobenhavn, Denmark
Joined: June 29, 2004
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Posted: Wednesday, December 03, 2014 - 04:11 PM UTC
Looking good Anthony.
c5flies
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California, United States
Joined: October 21, 2007
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Posted: Wednesday, December 03, 2014 - 07:33 PM UTC
Great start Tony! Nice 1:1 example to use as reference
foenetik
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Rhode Island, United States
Joined: September 07, 2014
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Posted: Thursday, December 04, 2014 - 03:50 AM UTC
thanks everyone. More to come shortly. The only thing i may not do is the orange suspension components. I kind of want to keep it close to oob as i can since its a review and all. Plus i dont want to anger the Z gods by using a non official color
foenetik
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Rhode Island, United States
Joined: September 07, 2014
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Posted: Friday, December 05, 2014 - 01:49 PM UTC
alright.. made some progress. the instructions call for the frame/unibody to be body color. I went with black textured paint. It looks like rubber undercoating (to match the 1:1 car). Came out nice. im going to paint all the bolts that brass color since thats what the original car has.

I also got the front and rear suspension done. There are quite a few moving parts which is great. Pretty much the entire suspension is articulated. Its really well done. No major fit issues.















I also took two videos to show some of the moving parts. The steering gear looks wet cause i added some white lithium grease cause it was binding a bit. that part wasnt well thought out. it works but the angle is too steep for it to work without some grease.
http://vid124.photobucket.com/albums/p4/djfoenetik/AM%20Fairlady%20Z/Build/D81EADFA-B1FB-4351-9FC9-D99D72895B05_zpsiodapieh.mp4

http://vid124.photobucket.com/albums/p4/djfoenetik/AM%20Fairlady%20Z/Build/C92B63FB-7D24-4175-838F-A123996CFF2B_zps0qbw7iay.mp4
VonCuda
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North Carolina, United States
Joined: November 28, 2005
KitMaker: 2,216 posts
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Posted: Friday, December 05, 2014 - 09:10 PM UTC
Having owned several 240's and a couple of 280's over the years, I'm watching this with interest. You've made a great start so far.
You were right not going with the instructions on painting the underside the same body color. All early 240,260 &280 Z's came from the factory with only a clear rust proof coating that actually didn't work, so the underside basically looked like natural metal with some slight body color over spray.

When you get around to the engine bay, the block was painted a light blue, almost the color of the old Ford blue. The head and valve cover were natural aluminium with no shine at all to them.

Great job so far. I'd love to have this kit.

ps: the original air filter can is correct but the orange should be toned way down. It was more of a red/orange.
foenetik
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Rhode Island, United States
Joined: September 07, 2014
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Posted: Saturday, December 06, 2014 - 04:32 PM UTC

Quoted Text

Having owned several 240's and a couple of 280's over the years, I'm watching this with interest. You've made a great start so far.
You were right not going with the instructions on painting the underside the same body color. All early 240,260 &280 Z's came from the factory with only a clear rust proof coating that actually didn't work, so the underside basically looked like natural metal with some slight body color over spray.

When you get around to the engine bay, the block was painted a light blue, almost the color of the old Ford blue. The head and valve cover were natural aluminium with no shine at all to them.

Great job so far. I'd love to have this kit.

ps: the original air filter can is correct but the orange should be toned way down. It was more of a red/orange.



thanks for the tip! im actually on the engine now. great timing! was the tranny alum color as well?
VonCuda
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North Carolina, United States
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Posted: Saturday, December 06, 2014 - 06:47 PM UTC
Yep, the tranny is aluminum, but you'll want to dull it down a bit with some dark wash or pigments. The rear end will be a natural steel as well as the axles. If you stick to one bright color like aluminum on the underside it will turn out looking funny. Experiment with several different shades of metal colors and dirty them up a bit so that everything looks as though it should be there.

Hmm....let's see. The spark plug wires are also black. The fuel lines running around the valve cover are a dull natural metal. Also, there will be a hose running from the heater core through the firewall to the front of the engine on the pasangers side right above the oil filter mount and it should be a light red...almost pink. Fan blades will be a milky white as they are plastic.

Another cool tip: When you are ready to do the wiper fluid reservoir, paint it white. When it's dry, tape off the upper 1/3 of it and paint over the rest with Tamiya clear blue. It will look almost real, as if it's got wiper fluid in it.
foenetik
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Rhode Island, United States
Joined: September 07, 2014
KitMaker: 52 posts
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Posted: Saturday, December 06, 2014 - 07:06 PM UTC
awesome. thank you so much. unfortunately they instructions called for the diff housing/axles to be black and i already glued it in. so its black. i found some pics of the engine to reference what you said about the blue and orange so i have that down. oddly enough, i cant find a lot of pics of the engine or underside of these cars. other than my coworkers, but his isnt original. so i really appreciate the color help. id mask off the rear but the bracing over it will make that impossible and i had to superglue them in cause of the pressure from the movable suspension.

on the diff metal shades note, i actually have most of the alclad line, so im trying to do just that.
VonCuda
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North Carolina, United States
Joined: November 28, 2005
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Posted: Saturday, December 06, 2014 - 11:38 PM UTC
Tony, at the end of the day it's your model and it's supposed to be fun. I didn't want you to think I was being a know-it-all. Oddly enough, one of my pet peeves is when people try to pick apart someones build by telling them they're doing something wrong, but I find myself doing that too.

In reality when it comes to the Z cars, there really is no 100% right or wrong. Many of the 3rd and 4th year cars especially the 260z had dealer installed spray undercoating which was black. This was in certain areas of the US where it was found that the early 240z tended to rust extremely fast.

Also of note is that somewhere in....I believe....1973....there was even a batch of Z's that arrived off the ship with blue NGK spark plug wires due to a defective run of originals.

Anyway, just build it the way that makes you happy and feel free to ask any questions. Having fun is the main goal.

ps: I'm digging the British racing green! You're friend has good taste.
foenetik
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Rhode Island, United States
Joined: September 07, 2014
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Posted: Sunday, December 07, 2014 - 05:03 AM UTC

Quoted Text

Tony, at the end of the day it's your model and it's supposed to be fun. I didn't want you to think I was being a know-it-all. Oddly enough, one of my pet peeves is when people try to pick apart someones build by telling them they're doing something wrong, but I find myself doing that too.

In reality when it comes to the Z cars, there really is no 100% right or wrong. Many of the 3rd and 4th year cars especially the 260z had dealer installed spray undercoating which was black. This was in certain areas of the US where it was found that the early 240z tended to rust extremely fast.

Also of note is that somewhere in....I believe....1973....there was even a batch of Z's that arrived off the ship with blue NGK spark plug wires due to a defective run of originals.

Anyway, just build it the way that makes you happy and feel free to ask any questions. Having fun is the main goal.

ps: I'm digging the British racing green! You're friend has good taste.



I, in no way felt you were either a know it all nor picking apart my build. I did ask you for your assistance. To be honest, building is my favorite part of modeling. Im, unfortunately not that good at painting yet so I look for all the help i can (im by no means bad at it, but clean paint is my weakest skill for sure). I know in the end its my model, but i still want to do this place, and Tamiya proud since its a review/build to represent their product and this forum. Since this car was before my time, and my lack of original reference material, i can use all the help with colors as i can get.I really do appreciate all the tips and assistance you have given.

I like the green as well. its a nice color. mine will be more vibrant since his is older and faded but hes going to repaint it the same color so it should match in the end.

Hwa-Rang
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Kobenhavn, Denmark
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Posted: Monday, December 08, 2014 - 02:08 PM UTC
Looks great so far Anthony. Love the look of the textured paint. What brand of paint is it?
foenetik
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Rhode Island, United States
Joined: September 07, 2014
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Posted: Monday, December 08, 2014 - 02:57 PM UTC

Quoted Text

Looks great so far Anthony. Love the look of the textured paint. What brand of paint is it?



Thanks! Its Krylon
warreni
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South Australia, Australia
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Posted: Saturday, December 13, 2014 - 03:58 PM UTC
Not wanting to be a kill joy or nay-sayer, but the reference car is not a 240ZG...

I started building mine about a week ago and I painted the chassis the same colour as the body. The 240ZG was not part of the early production as far as I know and by the time they were built the Japanese 240ZGs and Zs all had their chassis painted body colour to help with rust proofing.

Also, as Tamiya says in the instructions the ZG was only available in three colours, White Red and Maroon. I used Tamiya TS-11 on my car as it is as close as I could find to the original colour.

But ignore all the previous words Anthony as it is your model and you can paint it whatever colour you want to paint it!

Cheers and keep at it,
Warren


foenetik
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Rhode Island, United States
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Posted: Saturday, December 13, 2014 - 05:36 PM UTC

Quoted Text

Not wanting to be a kill joy or nay-sayer, but the reference car is not a 240ZG...

I started building mine about a week ago and I painted the chassis the same colour as the body. The 240ZG was not part of the early production as far as I know and by the time they were built the Japanese 240ZGs and Zs all had their chassis painted body colour to help with rust proofing.

Also, as Tamiya says in the instructions the ZG was only available in three colours, White Red and Maroon. I used Tamiya TS-11 on my car as it is as close as I could find to the original colour.

But ignore all the previous words Anthony as it is your model and you can paint it whatever colour you want to paint it!

Cheers and keep at it,
Warren





No worries, i know its not a zg ( i mentioned in the first post it was just a Z, but thats not here nor there). I was originally going to make this car look just like his but in order to do that i would have to change quite a bit and seeing as its a review i didnt feel it would best represent the product. So im basically making it in the spirit of his at this point. I realize i said the green is a color that the car came in, and i know thats incorrect. I was referring to his car but i worded it incorrectly. You are definitely correct about that. I want to stay close to the instructions color call-outs but some of the parts i had to change because i didn't feel they were accurate (like the rotors being chrome). You are totally correct though, its my model and i can paint it however but i always appreciate input. Ive never been around a ZG or a Z for that matter besides my coworkers so hearing how it should be painted does help and i like to know.

Thank again for the input.
VonCuda
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North Carolina, United States
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Posted: Sunday, December 14, 2014 - 05:57 AM UTC
To make the debate even more confusing, my oldest sister was the original owner of a 1970 240Z. She picked it up at the local dealer the day of delivery and owned it up until 8 years ago. I can say with 100% certainty that the underside was NOT sprayed body color (burnt orange). Being a member of our local Datsun Z club for nearly 20 years I can also say that many of the members owned original Z cars and the only paint that was ever on the underside of their cars was slight over spray.

I can also point you to a few original Z owners who's cars definitely WERE sprayed totally with body color.

I know a man who owned a 1974 260Z that came from the factory with the original "round top" carbs instead of the one year only "flat top" carbs. That particular car also came factory equipped with NGK spark plug wires instead of the factory black ones.

One thing I can tell you is that after 40 years of driving, owning and being around Z cars from 1970 to 2014, there really is no set in stone guides for what is truly factory original.

foenetik
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Rhode Island, United States
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Posted: Monday, December 15, 2014 - 03:25 AM UTC

Quoted Text

To make the debate even more confusing, my oldest sister was the original owner of a 1970 240Z. She picked it up at the local dealer the day of delivery and owned it up until 8 years ago. I can say with 100% certainty that the underside was NOT sprayed body color (burnt orange). Being a member of our local Datsun Z club for nearly 20 years I can also say that many of the members owned original Z cars and the only paint that was ever on the underside of their cars was slight over spray.

I can also point you to a few original Z owners who's cars definitely WERE sprayed totally with body color.

I know a man who owned a 1974 260Z that came from the factory with the original "round top" carbs instead of the one year only "flat top" carbs. That particular car also came factory equipped with NGK spark plug wires instead of the factory black ones.

One thing I can tell you is that after 40 years of driving, owning and being around Z cars from 1970 to 2014, there really is no set in stone guides for what is truly factory original.




haha you seasoned modelers are killing me so many different opinions on colors. im glad you all agree i can paint it whatever color or id be really confused. i really do appreciate all the discussion though. its nice to get some insight on how they actually looked.
VonCuda
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North Carolina, United States
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Posted: Monday, December 15, 2014 - 04:30 AM UTC
It's like Burger King, Tony. You can have it your way!
foenetik
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Rhode Island, United States
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Posted: Monday, December 15, 2014 - 02:08 PM UTC
got most of the engine work done. Everything fit well. Dry fitting is key because on theres quite a few places where there are just general location pins. its easy to misalign pieces and discover it later if you dont do a dry run. For example, the alternator is crooked and i cant really fix it cause i forgot to dry run it, and its all glued, but when installed it will be hard to notice. lesson learned. I will do weathering later. However, i did some minor pitting and such on the valve cover. its subtle so it may not show well in the pics.

Its mostly alclad steel, and white aluminum. The black and blue are tamiya custom mixes. Tamiya calls out x4 for the block and thats a straight dark blue so from the pics i saw and the advice above i felt it was way too dark. made my own color.

















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