Yes, I know! I even try to taper the blades on another fan. It works for the outer most part, but as the circle narrows, it is impossible to sand down. I just loathe them, but I guess we need to live with

I might be creating a monster, but I'm thinking on my next build I might cut some replacement blades from an old beer can (because I don't drink soda) and see how I go transplanting them onto the kit fan hub.

The body looks great, but which is the true colour to the naked eye? The images in the spray booth look a lot darker, so I would think the last image might be the true colour.

Gabriel,
The color coat out of the booth looks perfect. Talk about a gloss job. Well done my friend.

As for replacing those fan blades. The Aluminum from a can would certainly work, but be a lot harder to shape then using .020 sheet. I've found that you can shape thin sheet by heating up the handle of a Exacto knife and rolling it till it cools off. The roll isn't major, so the plastic should hold the shape just fine.

Joel

Hi Gabriel,

It’s pleasure to see your work - the motor and body are both looking good!

Regarding the fan, I’ve tried the aluminum can method before and liked the results. I suspect there are lots of ways to do this. I first cut the aluminum into a circle matching the overall fan diameter. Next, I drilled a small hole in the center. Then traced the fan pattern onto the aluminum I wanted and cut it out, followed by slightly twisting the blades. I then cut out two small diameter discs from thin styrene, and drill a small hole in the center. These function as collars - on the front and back of the fan. These are positioned on the fan on a length of thin brass rod. The styrene collars help to stabilize the fan, add some visual bulk, and create a decent mounting surface.

Looking forward to your progress -

Cheers
Nick

Gabriel, somehow I missed the start of your build (I guess holiday season can do that) But I'm all caught up now!

Excellent progress so far!

Can I ask: What did you use for the spark plug leads?

I wonder if I'll be able to slice the fan pulley after cutting off the blades and to sandwich the aluminum blades between slices, to keep the original detail on the pulley, or at least to thin it down from back to front for the same reason.

Killer paintjob Gabriel.

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I wonder if I'll be able to slice the fan pulley after cutting off the blades and to sandwich the aluminum blades between slices, to keep the original detail on the pulley, or at least to thin it down from back to front for the same reason.

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That is exactly what I was planning to try out as well. I also like Nick's approach, sounds straightforward and relatively easy. I see some experimenting in the near future, best I have a couple of beers to stock up on raw materials

Cheers, D

I agree, it looks like a feasible solution. I cannot wait to try it myself in the next build - Ford 1920 Roadster, also from AMT. Fortunately on this case, the fan has only two blades. Unfortunately, it is molded together with the belt. I'll see how it goes.

I have been going over the process in my head, thinking about how to replicate the ridge details in the fan blades. Gluing a half round piece of Evergreen perhaps? I'm also considering pressing the blade down over a drill bit and "burnishing" with a toothpick might be an answer. Hmmmmmmm . . . .

Cheers, D

Gabriel, this is really an amazing build!

Thanks for the tip about the spark plugs! Will use than on my Trans Am that's been on the bench the last four years

Am no expert on the brake lines, but if the owner doesn't want them, I'd sure be tempted to omit them

Gabriel,
I have a hard time remembering yesterday, but going back to the 1960s is a real challenge for sure.

From what I can remember, the engine oil pan was always painted the same color as the engine block. The real hard question was what color. Chrysler unlike Ford or GM used different colors for different engines. Hemis and race Hemis were treated differently color wise, and were mostly Orange. The colors used for various other blocks did vary by year and or engine type.

During the 1960s the general used color was a darkish Blue. I Googled it to find out exactly what color Blue, but for the most part no one seems to know. What was interesting is that the Blue had a tendency to turn more towards a Turquoise color due to heat, but to the naked eye, with all the dirt, and grime from road use, it's pretty hard to tell. Since you're doing a mint build with no miles on it, the color would be darker then your body color. As for the Black, well, like I said, from more google searchers, it depends on the year right through the 1980s. But Black is wrong for your build.

The issue with the steering Tie rod is because the Idler Arms are angled incorrectly. Not sure if you could have tweaked the angle some to cure the problem or not.

As for the clips for the rear brake lines, I haven't a clue. Usually they were two on each side. the outer one was always just before where the line attached to the axel casing had a fitting for the brake fluid hose so that it was flexible to move up and down with the shocks/springs. the other clamp was usually more to the rear end, but like I said, the few times I saw one, I just don't remember.

Hope this helps.

Joel

Black on black he wants, black on black we do. The thing is he didn't specified which black

Gabriel,
Great decision, as the customer is always right. You can win the battle, but you'll always loose the war with no customers.

Love how those shocks came out. So much so that I'm going to get some of that True Color Cobalt Blue Candy paint.

Joel

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Black on black he wants, black on black we do. The thing is he didn't specified which black

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Gabriel, you cheeky devil
Looks great.