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Cars: Muscle Cars
60's & 70's Classics
Hosted by Jim Starkweather
Tri-Five Project Part 1 - 55 Series
AussieReg
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Posted: Friday, April 26, 2019 - 04:28 PM UTC
Thanks guys!

Joel, I seriously couldn't believe it, parked about 25 metres from my car, I was tempted to try my keys in it and take it home

Mark, the point is that you enjoyed doing it mate!

Rowan, I just try not to tell myself that these have been WIP for several years, focus on the finish line

A nice quiet day today so I got a bit more painting done. This SMS paint laid down so nicely I didn't even need to sand the white or white pearl. I just gave them a buff with a soft cotton cloth to take off the "dust" after about 15 minutes of curing.






Clear gloss next

Cheers, D
Joel_W
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Posted: Saturday, April 27, 2019 - 12:43 AM UTC
D,
So glad that you had 2nd thoughts about trying your key in the ignition. We need you here, and unless you're positive that the local jail has internet, you made the right decision in passing on trying your key.

The White Pearl looks perfect. So far, absolutely a perfect paint job for sure.

Joel
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Posted: Saturday, April 27, 2019 - 06:40 AM UTC
Damian, that '55 looks amazing. Running into vehichles like this Will put a smile on ya' race, for sure.

The '55 El C. looks awesome. With a nice subtle weathering it will be a killer. What kind of oil weathering do you have in mind?

Super choice, of color, for the convertible. Looks like the local paint manufacturer, is producing some seriously good paints.
RussellE
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Posted: Sunday, April 28, 2019 - 04:55 PM UTC
Gorgeous paint work D
AussieReg
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Posted: Sunday, April 28, 2019 - 10:17 PM UTC
I managed to get a couple of coats of clear gloss on (Mr Color GX110). It's a bit pebbly so I will hit it back with a sanding pad to smooth it our once it has had time to cure.




Cheers, D
Joel_W
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Posted: Monday, April 29, 2019 - 05:56 AM UTC
D,
The clear coat looks pretty good from my end, and should polish out just fine.

I also use Mr. Hobby/Mr. Color Gloss Clear, but it's #C46 lacquer base. I've never heard of GX110 before, so I googled it. It's a Clear Silver (?) that's not available in the USA. I'm assuming that it's a Acrylic Lacquer. What is the advantages of it over the C46 Gloss Clear?

Joel

RussellE
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Posted: Monday, April 29, 2019 - 09:33 AM UTC
Looks pretty good D!

I do find if the paint is not "wet" enough when it hits the surface then it will tend to "pebble" as you say...

This could be from having the airbrush too far from the surface, or paint not thinned down enough, requiring higher air pressure to push it through the airbrush drying it prematurely....

of course, I use enamels, so they do tend to take a longer time to dry, giving the paint time to settle on the surface...

actually, I may just not know what I'm talking about at all
AussieReg
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Posted: Monday, April 29, 2019 - 09:55 AM UTC

Quoted Text

I also use Mr. Hobby/Mr. Color Gloss Clear, but it's #C46 lacquer base. I've never heard of GX110 before, so I googled it. It's a Clear Silver (?) that's not available in the USA. I'm assuming that it's a Acrylic Lacquer. What is the advantages of it over the C46 Gloss Clear?


Hi Joel. Apologies for the confusion, that was a typo I didn't pick up. It's actually GX100 . This is the first time I've used it, but from videos and reviews I have seen it has a higher gloss and dries faster to a harder finish.

Cheers, D
AussieReg
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Posted: Monday, April 29, 2019 - 10:00 AM UTC

Quoted Text

Looks pretty good D!

I do find if the paint is not "wet" enough when it hits the surface then it will tend to "pebble" as you say...

This could be from having the airbrush too far from the surface, or paint not thinned down enough, requiring higher air pressure to push it through the airbrush drying it prematurely....

of course, I use enamels, so they do tend to take a longer time to dry, giving the paint time to settle on the surface...

actually, I may just not know what I'm talking about at all


Hi Russ.

I'm thinning it with at least 50% MLT to slow down the curing time, might need to go higher with the thinner, and spraying from 2-3 inches away at about 15psi. I think the problem is that my airbrush only has a 0.25 tip, there's just not enough paint getting down to get that good wet surface. I might do some trials with this clear through my trusty old Paasche-H, that will hose it on!

Thanks for your input guys, much appreciated.

Cheers, D
RussellE
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Posted: Monday, April 29, 2019 - 10:08 AM UTC

Quoted Text


Quoted Text

Looks pretty good D!

I do find if the paint is not "wet" enough when it hits the surface then it will tend to "pebble" as you say...

This could be from having the airbrush too far from the surface, or paint not thinned down enough, requiring higher air pressure to push it through the airbrush drying it prematurely....

of course, I use enamels, so they do tend to take a longer time to dry, giving the paint time to settle on the surface...

actually, I may just not know what I'm talking about at all


Hi Russ.

I'm thinning it with at least 50% MLT to slow down the curing time, might need to go higher with the thinner, and spraying from 2-3 inches away at about 15psi. I think the problem is that my airbrush only has a 0.25 tip, there's just not enough paint getting down to get that good wet surface. I might do some trials with this clear through my trusty old Paasche-H, that will hose it on!

Thanks for your input guys, much appreciated.

Cheers, D


Indeed, that could be the case too, D!

Using too fine a tip, means you need to get much closer to the surface, to ensure the paint goes on "wet" enough.

I always use my large tip Badger for the type of work you're doing for that reason.

Not sure if I'd thin the paint anymore before trying the larger tip!
Joel_W
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Posted: Tuesday, April 30, 2019 - 01:49 AM UTC
D,
Thanks for the correction. I'd kill for a supplier of GX100 Super Clear III. C46 is close, but it's not the same.

While I'm no expert on clearcoats, I've managed to come up with a system that even works for me. I thin the Mr.Color C46 1:1 with their #400 leveling thinner, it's the best of the best out there. I've tried working flow psi's from 24 t0 16, and honestly a flow rate of 16 psi works. The key as you mentioned is the airbrush setup. I made the switch from Iwata's to Grex AB's and love them. One setup is a .3mm and the other AB is a .5mm. Huge difference in the amount of material being moved through the AB. One tack coat, give it 5 min to set up, the two or three wet coats. Just slow down your passes to the point where the clear looks wet. Just don't stop your pass. 5 min between coats works for me. You can even see the clear leveling as it dries. I do give it 3 full days to cure before I start the sanding/polishing/waxing.

Joel
AussieReg
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Posted: Tuesday, May 21, 2019 - 01:58 AM UTC
Taking a break from the 56 Hardtop, I spent some time tonight on detail painting the 55 Convertible.



Almost ready for assembly.

Cheers, D
Joel_W
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Posted: Friday, May 24, 2019 - 09:48 AM UTC
D,
I finally got down to what the difference is between the two clears we both use. The GX100 is their Lacquer based Super III gloss clear, while the #C046 is much like the Tamiya Acrylic Lacquer paints. Both will thin perfectly with the #400 leveling thinner, as well as Tamiya's Yellow cap that I still need to use my container up. I'd kill for a local resource of the GX100, but so far no one here in the states carries that line, nor the Tamiya lacquers. Go figure that one out.

For gloss work, as you figured out, you need more of a flow rate so you can use a lower psi. I'm shooting it as I said with a Grex .5mm setup. The difference between the .5mm & the .3mm setups is like night and day.

Joel
RussellE
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Posted: Friday, May 24, 2019 - 10:08 PM UTC
oh man, that dashboard looks sweet!
AussieReg
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Posted: Monday, May 27, 2019 - 06:30 PM UTC

Quoted Text

oh man, that dashboard looks sweet!


Thanks Russ. It fought me all the way and got repainted twice, but I managed to wrestle it into submission.

Interstate for a few of days for work (Adelaide then Sydney) so no progress to report.

Cheers, D
AussieReg
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Posted: Wednesday, May 29, 2019 - 01:39 AM UTC
I love this stage, it really starts to look like something!




Cheers, D
Joel_W
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Posted: Wednesday, May 29, 2019 - 02:13 AM UTC
D,
Looking real good.

Joel
AussieReg
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Posted: Thursday, June 27, 2019 - 05:06 PM UTC
Still grinding away at the 55 Convertible, all the little shiny bits and pieces going into place slowly but surely.






Cheers, D
Joel_W
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Posted: Friday, June 28, 2019 - 12:39 AM UTC
D,
Slow but steady, precise work always pays off big time in the end.

Joel
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Posted: Sunday, June 30, 2019 - 09:02 PM UTC
Looks great. The front grill came out perfect.
AussieReg
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Posted: Monday, July 01, 2019 - 01:35 AM UTC
Thanks Joel and Jesper, I'm glad you're still following along.

More little shiny bits tonight, tiny paintwork on the front and rear Chev badges, a bit of trimming and sanding to get the tail lights fitting neatly, and a dry-fit of the windscreen.




Cheers, D
Joel_W
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Posted: Tuesday, July 02, 2019 - 01:27 AM UTC
D,
Looks just like a real restoration, it's that good.

We get the Motortrend Cable station and they do restorations all the time. I can tell you that modeling is way easier then what these guys have to deal with.

Joel
AussieReg
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Posted: Tuesday, July 02, 2019 - 01:54 AM UTC

Quoted Text

D,
Looks just like a real restoration, it's that good.

We get the Motortrend Cable station and they do restorations all the time. I can tell you that modeling is way easier then what these guys have to deal with.

Joel


Thanks Joel, I greatly appreciate the feedback. I'm a big fan of the "Car Resto" programs like Misfit Garage and Classic Car Resto's, some amazing old cars and wonderful to see the work that goes into them.

A bit more work on the '55 Ragtop. I assembled the rear bumper and spare wheel carrier, but found that the exhaust tips are so tight up under the chassis rails that they interfere with the fit of the bumper (circled in the image below), so I had to fit some 3mm blocks under the exhaust pipes to force them down for clearance. Once I got that sorted the rear bumper assembly went into place without much trouble.



Carrying on with the finishing touch additions, I fitted the chrome tissue dispenser under the dash, which was tricky given that everything was assembled in the interior, but I lost the part off the chrome sprue early in the build and it turned up today in the box with the '56 Hardtop parts !!
The steering wheel assembly went in next, then the 2 visors on the windscreen frame, the windscreen wipers, and the side window frames. The windscreen assembly is still dry fitted and will be glued down last.


The last thing I got to tonight was the chrome side mouldings and door handles. The cleaned up nicely and fitted into the moulded recesses beautifully.



All of this handling has rubbed off the chrome paint on the forward side mouldings, so before I attached the windscreen and the last couple of delicate chrome parts (side mirror and antenna), I need to think about how to refinish them. I might mask and spray them, or possibly try out one of the Molotow pens.

Very close to the end now, it's been a fun build and lots of learning for me to store away for the rest of my Tri-5 shenanigans. The one thing I really need to focus on is spending a bit more time and effort on the main paint finish. The Pearl White on this build came up really nicely, but the Wine Red still has too much orange peel for my liking.

Cheers, D
md72
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Posted: Tuesday, July 02, 2019 - 03:04 AM UTC
How did you get the chrome on the Bel Air logo on the rear fender?
AussieReg
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Posted: Tuesday, July 02, 2019 - 10:35 AM UTC

Quoted Text

How did you get the chrome on the Bel Air logo on the rear fender?


Hi Mark.

I haven't started on the moulded badges yet, not sure which one you are referring to

I usually dry brush them with a very fine brush and chrome paint, keep building up layers until I'm happy.

Thanks for checking in!

Cheers, D
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