That's probably a little far to come to the Spring Thaw Model Show in Utica, NY, on March 29th.

Jim

Jim,
unfortunately, it is. These days I rarely get to NJ right over the GW bridge for the Mosquitocon.
Joel

LOL, ya made me go look it up. I was born just the other side of the GW bridge in Hackensack, NJ. Been gone from there a LONG, LONG time.

Well, we're getting closer! I think the body needs another coat of white. It doesn't really show in the photo, but it didn't cover as well as I'd like.




I think the next photos will be of the completed car, unless I have a disaster along the way!

Jim

Jim,
Photos do lie, believe I know that only to well. If you feel that another coat of White is needed, then go for it.

Joel

Delbert, great to see you making some headway on your build, and a super choice for a colour combination. I actually picked up a couple of green paints a while back to do a very similar combination on a 50's Chevy so it will be really good to see how you go about this one.

Jim, looking great mate! It's definitely hard to pick up in the photos, but as Joel said, they lie to us constantly. An extra coat to get that full opacity is often required as you roll the shell around in different lights.

Hard to believe that we are close to the 2/3 point on this Group Build, just over 2 months to run.

Cheers, D

me again.. for those that asked.. The 57 Fairlane kit tha I am doing is the AMT/ERTL kit.. 2 in 1 stock or custom..

That Greased Lightning is looking slick.. LOL

Anyways I Got all m parts ready and did my washing of them today. Hope to start painting in a day or so..

I also spent some time and mixed up 2 bottles of custom paint. I know I won't be exact by using photos of the ford paint chips and photos of examples, but I am only trying to get close..

And here is my two tone paint sample chip.. I know its only brush painted but it gives a good idea of what is to come.. :>




later..

Delbert

Thanks, guys. I am please with the progress on the 1948 Ford. It's actually going together quite nicely. The decals take a long time to come off the paper compared to AMT, but they're really nice.

Damian, I know you're the Chevy Guy, so I thought I should tell you that I started the Revell 1969 Chevrolet Nova SS kit the other day. It's part of my Muscle Car Kick!

Jim

Nice! My master plan to make this an exclusively Chevy forum is coming together beautifully!

Will we see a build log thread? I would love to see that coming together.

Cheers, D

Probably not a build log, but I will definitely post pics when I'm done.

Jim

Lefty has got up off the floor and climbed back into the ring. Still not in perfect shape after some punishing body blows, it will carry some bruises to the finish line.

Sorry for the boxing metaphors but I pretty happy how this came out. I repainted the car in the Gravity colours, firstly Ford Diamond White, not that I had much choice since I had destroyed the original white band decals. Then masked off and put on the Olympic Blue coat.





A couple of very small areas to clean up and I can start the second round of decals.

cheers
Michael

Nice recovery Mike, "Lefty" looks pretty good to me!

Delbert, nice colour combo. Since you've got them on a white card, make sure you use a pale primer on the shell otherwise you might find them darkening down quite a bit.

Cheers, D

Wow!! 3 progress reports. I'm really impressed

Delbert, the two tone Green colors look really good. D advice on a very light gray or white primer is a must.

Jim, Glad to hear that Grease Lightning is making excellent progress. And I'm looking forward to your finished pics of the Revell 1969 Chevrolet Nova SS kit. My friend had a Nova II with a ton of mods for Street Drag Racing. Just an amazing machine.

Michael, your two tone paint scheme looks fantastic. Not to mention that the body work came out absolutely perfect.

Joel

Very nice paint job Michael.

Work on the GT has begun.

For a brand new kit I've been disappointed by the amount of heavy flash on the kit. Here are the parts all cleaned up and ready for priming.



Then after priming



Now a line-up of blacks, greys and metallics for the interior...


I'm thinking of being brave and using Zero Paints for the first time, they have a set for this scheme. Any advice?

I finished my GT40 several weeks ago. Spare time is a difficult thing for me as a caregiver, and I cannot remember how to post pics of the build and final product. Any help appreciated.
Patrick

Hi Patrick. Great to hear that you have completed your GT40 build, I'm looking forward to seeing the photos.

Once you get the images loaded into your gallery, you will see a brown button to the right of the "Linked Thumbnail" box at the bottom (circled red in the image below). Click this button and a couple of extra boxes will appear below it. Copy the "HTML Code" (red arrow in the image below) and paste it into your post here.



I hope this helps, please let me know if you have any more problems.

Cheers, D

Finally finished. Ford GT 40 MKII, third overall 1966 LeMans. Sold in August 2018 almost $9.8 million.

Thanks for the help!

You're very welcome, any time!

That is a beautiful build Patrick, well done getting it completed and on display! It really is a stunning, iconic car, and having a genuine original '66 Le Mans podium car would be well worth the price tag.

Cheers, D

Another week gone, plenty of activity including a completed build that snuck up on us without even being on the "in-progress" radar! Well played Patrick!

Running update on builds

18 weeks in, 24,000 views and over 500 posts
23 enlisted (two dropped out now - Pasi and Roman)
13 builds in progress (+1 still looking for decals)
6 builds completed

Aussiereg (Damian) - '36 Ford 5-Window Coupe - COMPLETED
Spruslayer (Mike) - '65 F-100 Service Truck - COMPLETED
TacFireGuru (Mike) - Louisville Delivery Truck - COMPLETED
Stickframe (Nick) - IMSA Mustang - COMPLETED
Joel_W (Joel) - '85 Mustang Roush Body - COMPLETED
bluebell914 (Patrick) - 66 GT40 COMPLETED

jimb (James) - '48 Deluxe Convertible - Finishing touches, almost there!
Szmann (Gabriel) - '66 F-100 Flareside - Paint Stage
PasiAhopelto (Pasi) - '57 "Fireball Roberts" NASCAR - Body Painted - withdrawn due to paint issues
md72 (Mark) - '51 Custom Coupe - Body primed, engine painted, chassis rust effects done
Dixon66 (David) - 1st Generation Bronco - Parts Prep and body mods
tinbanger (Richard) - '65 Mustang 2+2 Fastback - Primer
Cosimodo (Michael) Build 1 LHD - Escort RS1600 MkI 1973 RAC - Body repaired and repainted
Cosimodo (Michael) Build 2 RHD - Escort RS1600 MkI 1973 RAC - Body painted, drive train assembly, interior detailing
Hwa-Rang (Jesper) - '65 Mustang 2+2 Fastback - Body Prep Work
forest1000 (David) - "Thunderbat" NASCAR - Painted, decals on, assembly pending
JClapp (Jonathan) - '15 Model T - Parts Prep
Merlin (Rowan) - '40 Standard Coupe - Chassis/Engine Painted, Decals AWOL
Merlin (Rowan) - '57 Del Rio Wagon - Reviewed and hit the bench, engine/chassis under way
Delbert (Delbert) - '57 Fairlane 500 - Assembly and colour scheme tinkering underway
RedwingNev (Neil) - 2017 GT40 Le Mans - Parts cleaned up and primed

Littorio (Luciano) - '65 Falcon Ranchero or '60 Starliner - enlisted
Ray_from_SA (Ray) - WRC Escort, Focus or Fiesta (or all 3 ??) - enlisted
betheyn (Andy) - enlisted
heavyjagdpanzer (Bill) - Mustang "Blue Max" Funny Car - enlisted
IronOwl (Sascha) - enlisted

Lovely GT-40 Patrick

Patrick,
An absolutely impressive build. Just love the overall finish and your plaque.

I've added your name to the list for Ribbons.

Joel

Neil,
Have no fear, using pre-thinned lacquer based paints is very easy. The two most popular brands are Zero and Gravity of Spain.

Always start with a full jar if you're using Gravity paints. Zero paints in the 60ml jar can be half full as you still have plenty of paint, but if you're using their new, smaller jars then you need a full jar to be on the safe side.

Use a properly vented paint booth to the outside.
Wear vapor face mask, as well as gloves.

give all the primed surfaces a light rub with 3,000 grit, followed by a wiping with a tack cloth. This does two things. It smooths out the surface just enough but at the same time it's rough enough to give the color coats a surface to bite into.

mix the paint completely till you can see the glass bottom when you tilt the bottle.

Set your compressor to 20psi
1st color coat is a tack coat. Just easy and complete passes.
3 min to dry off
2nd color coat go a little slower but always complete passes. Never stop for missed spots.
5 min to dry off
3rd and final color coat. go a little slower still. Complete passes and don't stop
10 min to dry off.
If you need a 4th coat, then apply one.
Let the color coats dry and cure for a good 3-4 days depending on humidity.

Joel

Thanks Joel, all great suggestions.
But


this one kills me every time. The regulator on my compressor goes to 200 PSI. So in an ideal world, 20psi would be 10% of full range, but given the construction of the gauge, it's more like 7 or 8% of full scale. Really hard to know if you're at that value or not. And the guy who sez he's using 18psi has got me even more frustrated.

So as a reminder, what is the rig that you're using that gives you that level of control?

Mark,
Your home compressor was most likely like my home utility Husky compressor. It easily could get to 180 psi. I used it to blow out our sprinkler system, fill up the car tires, etc. The compressor had a regulator with a gauge. So I just set it to 20 psi by turning the knob and watching the gauge.

Now I have an Iwata duel regulator compressor. It's really made by Sparmax. Same exact principle, but it has two regulators so I don't have to change air brushes all the time as one has a .3mm setup and the other a .5mm setup.

There is virtually no difference between 18 psi and 20 psi as these gauges aren't exactly super accurate. If you AB'd at lets say 24 psi, it's ok. It the amount of paint, the distance to the body, and the speed of your passes that are important.

Joel