Your pictures just remembered me how much I like this engine set-up... it may be I will carry on with my damaged Porsche.
Gabriel
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Porsche campaign anyone?
Szmann
Joined: September 02, 2014
KitMaker: 1,977 posts
Auto Modeler: 1,371 posts
Posted: Wednesday, February 20, 2019 - 02:21 PM UTC
Looking good, D.! The red / black / silver combo is quite effective - I'll try to "save it as template" for further use.
Your pictures just remembered me how much I like this engine set-up... it may be I will carry on with my damaged Porsche.
Gabriel
Your pictures just remembered me how much I like this engine set-up... it may be I will carry on with my damaged Porsche.
Gabriel
Joel_W
Associate Editor
Joined: December 04, 2010
KitMaker: 11,666 posts
Auto Modeler: 2,974 posts
Posted: Thursday, February 21, 2019 - 06:57 AM UTC
D,
The bottom end of the 911 slant nose looks fantastic. Honestly, I'm amazed at the detail in the Monogram kit.
Joel
The bottom end of the 911 slant nose looks fantastic. Honestly, I'm amazed at the detail in the Monogram kit.
Joel
Szmann
Joined: September 02, 2014
KitMaker: 1,977 posts
Auto Modeler: 1,371 posts
Posted: Friday, February 22, 2019 - 03:22 PM UTC
Well, time for me to resume the campaign.
I have bribed Thinkerbell (the one that lives in my wallet, naturally) to fix my Porsche bodywork and she has promised it's going to be ready by Tuesday.
Having a few days at my disposal, I decided to carry on with the build and start with the beginning
again. Step one in the instructions: assembly the engine:
Gabriel
I have bribed Thinkerbell (the one that lives in my wallet, naturally) to fix my Porsche bodywork and she has promised it's going to be ready by Tuesday.
Having a few days at my disposal, I decided to carry on with the build and start with the beginning
again. Step one in the instructions: assembly the engine:Gabriel
AussieReg
Associate Editor
#007
Joined: June 09, 2009
KitMaker: 8,156 posts
Auto Modeler: 2,953 posts
Posted: Friday, February 22, 2019 - 10:15 PM UTC
Great to see you back at this one Gabriel, following up from the CF Beetle and that beautiful 300C this should be great to watch.
Being picky, there's a mould line on one of the half-shafts that could use a quick scrape off.
Cheers, D
Being picky, there's a mould line on one of the half-shafts that could use a quick scrape off.
Cheers, D
Szmann
Joined: September 02, 2014
KitMaker: 1,977 posts
Auto Modeler: 1,371 posts
Posted: Saturday, February 23, 2019 - 12:12 AM UTC
Quoted Text
Great to see you back at this one Gabriel, following up from the CF Beetle and that beautiful 300C this should be great to watch.
Being picky, there's a mould line on one of the half-shafts that could use a quick scrape off.
Cheers, D
Thank you for your interest, D.!
Honestly, I'm going to make a "quickie" out of this one, because the next kit for build review is in its way. Most of the interior is done, and the undersides... I just need the new body and hopefully I can conclude the build in a week run.
Being picky at this stage is excellent - it saves a lot of work later. A little weird this silver plastic from Tamiya, reminiscent of the old Monogram / Revell: quite soft and slow to react to Tamiya extra thin glue...
Gabriel
Joel_W
Associate EditorJoined: December 04, 2010
KitMaker: 11,666 posts
Auto Modeler: 2,974 posts
Posted: Saturday, February 23, 2019 - 02:56 AM UTC
Gabriel,
Great to see that your Porsche is back on the workbench. I'm looking forward to seeing it cross the finish line.
Joel
Great to see that your Porsche is back on the workbench. I'm looking forward to seeing it cross the finish line.
Joel
Szmann
Joined: September 02, 2014
KitMaker: 1,977 posts
Auto Modeler: 1,371 posts
Posted: Saturday, February 23, 2019 - 02:37 PM UTC
Quoted Text
Gabriel,
Great to see that your Porsche is back on the workbench. I'm looking forward to seeing it cross the finish line.
Joel
Thanks, Joel! For a while the kit was out of stock by my supplier and I thought it's going to be my first abandon in a few years... but I set my stock alarm and I re-bought it as soon as re-entered stock. As I said before, one should not expect big feats from this build - it's just a "stop gap" build and the one before the last prior to my vacation...
Szmann
Joined: September 02, 2014
KitMaker: 1,977 posts
Auto Modeler: 1,371 posts
Posted: Saturday, February 23, 2019 - 02:58 PM UTC
UPDATE
I've continued with the engine. First I cleaned again the seam lines, but apparently I haven't done the best of jobs, then I went on my usual path: gloss black Krylon as base and right after the flashing time I applied Krylon silver for aluminum and Alclad polished aluminum for exhaust manifold and pulleys:
The dash (nice, clean mold), was primed with Mr. Surfacer 1500 + MLT and the decal applied straight over it:
The details were picked up with silver pen; some buttons will receive a different color once silver dry:
Since I have changed the color scheme of the vehicle, I changed the assorted interior colors as well. I replaced titanium gold with silver - as per original Komfort scheme.
The seats and the dash dry-fitted - just perfect, as one should expect from a Tamiya kit. The door panel inserts are missing from picture, because they are still painted in the old copper and need to be reverted to dark grey, as per base scheme:
I haven't even noticed how advanced I was with this build before the self inducted catastrophe
Next step(s): clear-coating and wash for interior components;
brush detailing and assembling for the engine; I'm not going to do super-detailing although is very tempting. I seriously consider to deliver this car with two engines (if time allows), one inside and one exposed on a stand outside, the second one more detailed, as per excellent's Joel example.
Cheers!
Gabriel
I've continued with the engine. First I cleaned again the seam lines, but apparently I haven't done the best of jobs, then I went on my usual path: gloss black Krylon as base and right after the flashing time I applied Krylon silver for aluminum and Alclad polished aluminum for exhaust manifold and pulleys:
The dash (nice, clean mold), was primed with Mr. Surfacer 1500 + MLT and the decal applied straight over it:
The details were picked up with silver pen; some buttons will receive a different color once silver dry:
Since I have changed the color scheme of the vehicle, I changed the assorted interior colors as well. I replaced titanium gold with silver - as per original Komfort scheme.
The seats and the dash dry-fitted - just perfect, as one should expect from a Tamiya kit. The door panel inserts are missing from picture, because they are still painted in the old copper and need to be reverted to dark grey, as per base scheme:
I haven't even noticed how advanced I was with this build before the self inducted catastrophe
Next step(s): clear-coating and wash for interior components;
brush detailing and assembling for the engine; I'm not going to do super-detailing although is very tempting. I seriously consider to deliver this car with two engines (if time allows), one inside and one exposed on a stand outside, the second one more detailed, as per excellent's Joel example.
Cheers!
Gabriel
Joel_W
Associate EditorJoined: December 04, 2010
KitMaker: 11,666 posts
Auto Modeler: 2,974 posts
Posted: Sunday, February 24, 2019 - 02:22 AM UTC
Gabriel,
Excellent job on the metallizing of the various engine parts. I especially like the exhaust headers as they already look like they have the start of heat staining.
And naturally, I'm looking forward to your interior as you always seem to find a way to make them more interesting then the last one.
Joel
Excellent job on the metallizing of the various engine parts. I especially like the exhaust headers as they already look like they have the start of heat staining.
And naturally, I'm looking forward to your interior as you always seem to find a way to make them more interesting then the last one.
Joel
Szmann
Joined: September 02, 2014
KitMaker: 1,977 posts
Auto Modeler: 1,371 posts
Posted: Sunday, February 24, 2019 - 01:22 PM UTC
Quoted Text
Gabriel,
Excellent job on the metallizing of the various engine parts. I especially like the exhaust headers as they already look like they have the start of heat staining.
Thank you, Joel! For the exhaust manifold I used polished aluminum from Alclad but I sprayed it parsimoniously, in short bursts, just to barely cover the fresh gloss black underneath
Quoted Text
And naturally, I'm looking forward to your interior as you always seem to find a way to make them more interesting then the last one.
Joel
Well, thank you for your vote of confidence in blank, but this time I will remain true to the instructions manual. I've tried some CF on the back of the seats and I managed to scratch ugly both of them. However, I left them there and the whole interior was clear-coated with Alclad Aqua. My next kit for review has reached already Miami and I have 10 days left to finish the Porsche - or most of it; So, no more derivations, this being truly my last chance to finish the Porsche campaign.
UPDATE:
I went one step forward with the engine, detailing it by brush. Nice molds by Tamiya, even more wondrous given their age:
The embedded Porsche writing was easy to pick up: just some red acrylic painted over and, once dry, the excess on the cover surface removed with a moist q-tip.
I save myself some time and I painted the oil pan with acrylic red, by brush. I found the pure red being a little "un-Porsche":
... and I came again over it with a tweaked red:
The belts I fount them thin enough and not in need for sanding; I painted them with "rubber black" (home brewed, naturally
):
However, the engine has some minuscule gaps that I have to deal with on the second engine - the one that will be exposed next to the car - if I ever get to make it:
I chose to use Alclad Aqua for gloss, reportedly being an acrylic specially designed to keep the shine of the metallic paints (blah-blah) because I wanted to keep it as close to this loook as I could - I sort of like it so:
The mismatch between the engine block and the head is quite obvious here - no biggie though - not much will be seen at the end:
The gaps are even more obvious here but, again, they're going to be pretty much out of sight:
The oil filter picked up with Liquitex blue (I have no clue of the original color of the OEM part but I love this blue):
... and that was it before the clear coat which I have applied but I took no pictures yet - I hid the freshly cleared engine in my photo tent until dries up.
... and a little more advance on the dash:
Note to self: when sprayed over Mr. Levelling Surfacer 1500 black, Alclad Aqua gives a very nice "cheap plastic effect" - good to know!
Other than that, I have clear coated the assembled interior as well, prior to washes - again, no pics because the assembly is still drying...
Cheers!
Gabriel
AussieReg
Associate Editor#007
Joined: June 09, 2009
KitMaker: 8,156 posts
Auto Modeler: 2,953 posts
Posted: Sunday, February 24, 2019 - 01:31 PM UTC
Lovely detail work Gabriel, you are moving along quickly on this one now.
Cheers, D
Cheers, D
Ray_from_SA
Joined: December 31, 2007
KitMaker: 47 posts
Auto Modeler: 13 posts
Posted: Monday, February 25, 2019 - 12:49 AM UTC
Quoted Text
Very nice work so far Ray, making good progress already. What paint did you use on the rims? I like the gold tone.
Cheers, D
It's Tamiya X12 Gold Leaf reduced and airbrushed. I find some of the other gold paints too bright for the BBS gold rims.
Joel_W
Associate EditorJoined: December 04, 2010
KitMaker: 11,666 posts
Auto Modeler: 2,974 posts
Posted: Monday, February 25, 2019 - 03:59 AM UTC
Gabriel
Outstanding build on the Porsche flat 6 engine. To answer your question about the correct color for the oil filter, well, it's not easy to do.
Porsche used a canister type filter, so you just changed the cartridge, which isn't cheap by any means. The original shell casing was painted various shades of Aluminum, but not super shiny silver. At some point the shells were painted glossy Blue, but I have no idea of what the current Porsches from the factory have.
Many owners painted the shell as the paint chipped off. Ans many aftermarket replacements are a different color as well.
your dash really came out looking quite realistic. Love the shade of leather black you came up with.
Joel
Outstanding build on the Porsche flat 6 engine. To answer your question about the correct color for the oil filter, well, it's not easy to do.
Porsche used a canister type filter, so you just changed the cartridge, which isn't cheap by any means. The original shell casing was painted various shades of Aluminum, but not super shiny silver. At some point the shells were painted glossy Blue, but I have no idea of what the current Porsches from the factory have.
Many owners painted the shell as the paint chipped off. Ans many aftermarket replacements are a different color as well.
your dash really came out looking quite realistic. Love the shade of leather black you came up with.
Joel
Ray_from_SA
Joined: December 31, 2007
KitMaker: 47 posts
Auto Modeler: 13 posts
Posted: Tuesday, February 26, 2019 - 01:14 AM UTC
A little update on my progress, fortunately no further surprises from this one, yet. I will say the kit would lend itself to detailing very well, Beemax gives you a decent starting point.
Underside of chassis - this is where I started ignoring the kit instructions and started following my reference material more. In truth, the green underbody may not be 100% correct as I believe the real car had black protective coating over the body color.
Here you can see the start of the interior tub, kit instructions wanted it all black, real car was green from photos I could find. Like I said it would lend itself well to adding detail:
Got a start on the body too, this is before I polished the paint, the complexity of all the surfaces made it fun trying to lay down a good coat:
Underside of chassis - this is where I started ignoring the kit instructions and started following my reference material more. In truth, the green underbody may not be 100% correct as I believe the real car had black protective coating over the body color.
Here you can see the start of the interior tub, kit instructions wanted it all black, real car was green from photos I could find. Like I said it would lend itself well to adding detail:
Got a start on the body too, this is before I polished the paint, the complexity of all the surfaces made it fun trying to lay down a good coat:
Szmann
Joined: September 02, 2014
KitMaker: 1,977 posts
Auto Modeler: 1,371 posts
Posted: Tuesday, February 26, 2019 - 02:16 AM UTC
Quoted Text
Lovely detail work Gabriel, you are moving along quickly on this one now.
Cheers, D
Thanks, D.! I need to... otherwise I'll be ran over by the next build whose kit was laden on-board today on Miami.
Quoted Text
Gabriel
Outstanding build on the Porsche flat 6 engine. To answer your question about the correct color for the oil filter, well, it's not easy to do.
Porsche used a canister type filter, so you just changed the cartridge, which isn't cheap by any means. The original shell casing was painted various shades of Aluminum, but not super shiny silver. At some point the shells were painted glossy Blue, but I have no idea of what the current Porsches from the factory have.
Many owners painted the shell as the paint chipped off. Ans many aftermarket replacements are a different color as well.
your dash really came out looking quite realistic. Love the shade of leather black you came up with.
Joel
Thank you, Joel!
I didn't go to super-detail this engine. The middle positioning "buries" most of detail under the rear seats / luggage shelf. The only care I took it was with the painting - the assembly is suffering. However, I intend to do the second engine as a stand-alone model, and there I will pay more attention to all issues I have omitted in this one. (I just hope I have enough time before my European vacation).
Ray, nice solid coat of paint. I agree, these compound surfaces can be troublesome when airbrushing because they create turbulence and hence rough surfaces. My approach is to spray - whenever that is possible - from the recesses to the edges, to avoid pooling of the paint and sand-like deposits. Sometimes it works.
UPDATE
I have cut from the sprue and base coated / metallized all the components for rear engine + rear suspension and drive train, but I had no chance to install them to the engine frame.
However, I had more success with the interior, which is virtually complete, safe the steering column and steering wheel:
The door inserts. Here you can see the remnant of my first intended scheme (copper), which I masked and sprayed over TCP 1220 F-35 Radar Display Gray #2 I know is a specially designed ANA color for aircraft, but in my opinion makes a very interesting interior color. Also, it dries very fast and is safe to touch in minutes:
All the other interior components added: pedals, handbrake and gear shifter: Checking the Tamiya interior against the original photos, one can see that Tamiya cut some corners here. For a more detailed model, one needs to scratch-build some detail:
The interior tube dry-fitted to the bottom pan. It's a Tamiya after all and fits with a click. Unfortunately I have discarded my home-brewed interior colors already, and to correct the sloppy job on the rear seats I would need basically to re-do the entire paint job and I just don't have the time for it. Fortunately for me, the seats are very low into the body, and very little is to be seen once the model complete (I know, it's the lazy modeler's excuse
)
Cheers!
Gabriel
AussieReg
Associate Editor#007
Joined: June 09, 2009
KitMaker: 8,156 posts
Auto Modeler: 2,953 posts
Posted: Tuesday, February 26, 2019 - 02:40 AM UTC
Just letting you all know that I'm not "asleep at the wheel".
My time lately has been taken up with trying to get a nice finish on the first part of the 51 Bel Air body work, and prepping and now priming this build.
Cheers, D
My time lately has been taken up with trying to get a nice finish on the first part of the 51 Bel Air body work, and prepping and now priming this build.
Cheers, D
AussieReg
Associate Editor#007
Joined: June 09, 2009
KitMaker: 8,156 posts
Auto Modeler: 2,953 posts
Posted: Tuesday, February 26, 2019 - 02:44 AM UTC
Ray, moving along nicely on your build. That body will come up well with a good sand and polish. The roll cage and interior details are coming together well.
Gabriel, I like the interior colour choices, nice and bright and clean once it is all put together.
Cheers, D
Gabriel, I like the interior colour choices, nice and bright and clean once it is all put together.
Cheers, D
Joel_W
Associate EditorJoined: December 04, 2010
KitMaker: 11,666 posts
Auto Modeler: 2,974 posts
Posted: Tuesday, February 26, 2019 - 02:48 AM UTC
Quoted Text
A little update on my progress, fortunately no further surprises from this one, yet. I will say the kit would lend itself to detailing very well, Beemax gives you a decent starting point.
Underside of chassis - this is where I started ignoring the kit instructions and started following my reference material more. In truth, the green underbody may not be 100% correct as I believe the real car had black protective coating over the body color.
Here you can see the start of the interior tub, kit instructions wanted it all black, real car was green from photos I could find. Like I said it would lend itself well to adding detail:
Got a start on the body too, this is before I polished the paint, the complexity of all the surfaces made it fun trying to lay down a good coat:
Ray,
The color and paint application looks outstanding. Can't wait to see it polished.
Agreed about following your references, as I've found more times then not, that the manufactures tend to make a lot of the colors up. This is something I just can't understand as they have the real car right in front of them.
My BeeWax 935K2 came last week. The kit really does look good. Honestly, it's about the best semi curbside kit 934/935 I've seen to date.
Joel
Joel_W
Associate EditorJoined: December 04, 2010
KitMaker: 11,666 posts
Auto Modeler: 2,974 posts
Posted: Tuesday, February 26, 2019 - 03:09 AM UTC
Gabriel,
The interior colors really work very well together. The Aircraft gray looks more like what they called Dove Gray. You do have a good eye for colors unlike me, who is also partially color blind.
the interior looks fine once installed, as the body work will take center stage.
Joel
The interior colors really work very well together. The Aircraft gray looks more like what they called Dove Gray. You do have a good eye for colors unlike me, who is also partially color blind.
the interior looks fine once installed, as the body work will take center stage.
Joel
Joel_W
Associate EditorJoined: December 04, 2010
KitMaker: 11,666 posts
Auto Modeler: 2,974 posts
Posted: Tuesday, February 26, 2019 - 03:11 AM UTC
Quoted Text
Just letting you all know that I'm not "asleep at the wheel".
My time lately has been taken up with trying to get a nice finish on the first part of the 51 Bel Air body work, and prepping and now priming this build.
Cheers, D
D,
Prep work looks great. Honestly, I'm getting confused trying to follow all your concurrent builds. Especially since I'm use to just one build at a time.
Joel
Szmann
Joined: September 02, 2014
KitMaker: 1,977 posts
Auto Modeler: 1,371 posts
Posted: Tuesday, February 26, 2019 - 01:59 PM UTC
Quoted Text
Gabriel,
The interior colors really work very well together. The Aircraft gray looks more like what they called Dove Gray. You do have a good eye for colors unlike me, who is also partially color blind.
the interior looks fine once installed, as the body work will take center stage.
Joel
Thanks, Joel. Yes, I remember I've have mixed orange in the darker shade of gray just to make it come closer to the intended copper. And, indeed, TCP-1220 it's a warm gray that can be called "dove gray". The thing is that this paint has a very discreet metallic flake to it, that gives it a little "spark". Apparently I've gave up aircraft building, but for sure I'm going to buy this paint because I haven't discovered (yet) how to brew it myself. And for a "color blind" man, you see the colors pretty well
Damian, I'm glad to see some progress there!
UPDATE
Well, the engine is ready. I'm not too happy with the gaps left behind, although pretty much they'll be out of sight - I know they're there.
... And what will be the modelling without drama! Will be pretty boring, right?
Here's the drama: remember when I was saying that the silver plastic is odd, resembling the old Revell / Monogram? Here is the proof:
I applied the wash on the engine before going to work and some turpentine accumulated between the cooling fins - which I wanted. What I wasn't expect, it was that the turpentine it will melt and contort the fins! Haha! Now that's realism, baby! That's for sure a "happy accident" Bob Ross style, but I never called for it. It is true, it is partly my fault, because I haven't insisted with the acrylic clear coat on the find for fear of overloading them. Well - I guess is good.
However, the engine is well tucked under the rear of the interior, and not a whole lot of it is going to be seen:
... and I didn't stop there. I cut almost everything from the sprue with the exception of mirrors and wipers and everything is primed, painted or metallized by now:
Cheers!
Gabriel
AussieReg
Associate Editor#007
Joined: June 09, 2009
KitMaker: 8,156 posts
Auto Modeler: 2,953 posts
Posted: Wednesday, February 27, 2019 - 02:03 AM UTC
I made time for a quick 20 minute airbrush session tonight to get the base colour on the interior.
It's a bit darker than the instructions call for but I prefer this to the paler shades. Black details will be hand-painted tomorrow night and pinwash applied.
Cheers, D
It's a bit darker than the instructions call for but I prefer this to the paler shades. Black details will be hand-painted tomorrow night and pinwash applied.
Cheers, D
Joel_W
Associate EditorJoined: December 04, 2010
KitMaker: 11,666 posts
Auto Modeler: 2,974 posts
Posted: Wednesday, February 27, 2019 - 05:07 AM UTC
Gabriel,
I'm not sure what the base of your black oil was, but like you, I certainly wouldn't have expected it to melt and twist the plastic unless it was Lacquer based. The plus as you said is that it did add a little something to the engine. In real life that couldn't happen, but in scale, it does add some character that is a real plus in my book as well.
The engine installed into the frame with the interior looks good, if not as you said, hidden on the top side, but I'm sure a good deal of it shows on the bottom side.
Joel
I'm not sure what the base of your black oil was, but like you, I certainly wouldn't have expected it to melt and twist the plastic unless it was Lacquer based. The plus as you said is that it did add a little something to the engine. In real life that couldn't happen, but in scale, it does add some character that is a real plus in my book as well.
The engine installed into the frame with the interior looks good, if not as you said, hidden on the top side, but I'm sure a good deal of it shows on the bottom side.
Joel
Joel_W
Associate EditorJoined: December 04, 2010
KitMaker: 11,666 posts
Auto Modeler: 2,974 posts
Posted: Wednesday, February 27, 2019 - 05:09 AM UTC
Quoted Text
I made time for a quick 20 minute airbrush session tonight to get the base colour on the interior.
It's a bit darker than the instructions call for but I prefer this to the paler shades. Black details will be hand-painted tomorrow night and pinwash applied.
Cheers, D
D,
The interior base looks real good.
Joel
Szmann
Joined: September 02, 2014
KitMaker: 1,977 posts
Auto Modeler: 1,371 posts
Posted: Wednesday, February 27, 2019 - 12:19 PM UTC
Quoted Text
Gabriel,
I'm not sure what the base of your black oil was, but like you, I certainly wouldn't have expected it to melt and twist the plastic unless it was Lacquer based. The plus as you said is that it did add a little something to the engine. In real life that couldn't happen, but in scale, it does add some character that is a real plus in my book as well.
The engine installed into the frame with the interior looks good, if not as you said, hidden on the top side, but I'm sure a good deal of it shows on the bottom side.
Joel
Hi, Joel.
Yes, you're right. That's a molten engine! In real life the fins will rather break than bend... Anyhow, this is what I have. I have used my "regular" wash: oil paint + turpentine. The only lacquer thinner was in the undercoat and maybe the turpentine has reactivated it. It's a "first" for me as well
And yes, unfortunately, that area is the only area to be fully exposed after the model completion ... oh well, I have the second engine that begs to be built as a stand-alone mini-model!
UPDATE
I have completed the dash with the steering column and steering wheel:
...and I have added the dash to the interior which is complete in its turn as well:
The front suspension / steering assembly added to the car:
The air filter dry-fit and the exhaust system installed, together with the turbo pipes:
IO could have used the new wheels for the build, but I had started already to strip the old ones:
The wheels painted with Krylon Gloss Black and metallized immediately with Krylon Silver:
Same went for the spoiler - I needed to rash this one so I can clear-coated and apply CF decal before installation:
I find this Krylon Silver a little too "white" for my taste - I would have preferred a grayer tone - but it is less troublesome than Alclad and it will be my choice of color for this version. There is a little of a learning curve as well with this one, but easy to catch with it.
I had the impression this second body is even worst than the first one with regard to the parting lines:
Hoever, whining doesn't help and I went to sanding and priming. Surprisingly enough, very little re-touching is needed before a second coat of primer - or maybe I'll go straight for the gloss black, depending in how much the first primer will be affected by sanding:
Cheers!
Gabriel
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