The car looks great Ray and good to see the decals have no problems conforming to all those Porsche curves.

cheers
Michael

Hi all,
just came across this campaign and thought 'why not' , even though I should be concentrating on some over half-started projects.

Being one that tends to "march to the beat of a different drum" I've chosen my intended victim to portray:



. Click on photo for full size.

As per my normal build style - @ 25th scale and scratch built.
More to follow as things happen on the bench.

Roger, welcome to the Group Build. Great to see another representative from the land of the long white cloud here as well!

Porsche Junior 108 Tractor? Challenging scratch build my friend, I will be following with much interest.

Cheers, D

Roger,
Welcome to the AutoModeler forums, you're really going to like it here.

I'm looking forward to following your scratch build Tracker project.

Joel

Haha! Yes, you're funnily right. If my cat doesn't chasing imaginary birds inside the house, I might get it right as well

Roger, make yourself comfortable among us! Very interesting project and you have a follower of your progress here for sure!

UPDATE
A good thing about the strong solvents is that the paint dries fast. The shell was ready for sanding the very next day and I've cleaned with a depleted 2000 grit the very few pimples the primer had, and a little grit on one of the runner boards. I have exposed the bare plastic in couple of places, but not that much to require re-priming:


And then the emotions. I've ran out of Krylon gloss black and I found a bottle of Model Master gloss black, unopened. Full of confidence, I made my "regular" 50/50 with MLT and went spraying. It looked excellent into the mixing cup, but very splattery on the model. Oh-Oh! I recognized yet immediately the "gooey" behavior of the urethane, and I checked the bottle. Indeed, it was Gloss Black Lacquer, which I didn't notice before. I let it flash, re-done the mix to 40 percent paint for 60 percent MLT and sprayed the second coat. Much better, just slightly irregular surface. I let it flash again, for 10 minutes, tweaked the mix to 35 / 65 and hit the shell with a really wet coat, just at the limit of the run (the urethanes love that). And Yes! My own mug was grinning back to me from almost mirror surface. I put it in my photo tent to dry and, when dry enough, I took it outside and inspected it under the bright Caribbean sun. 4 "pimples" and a little rough surface on the rear fender, right side (you can see it in the following picture). After all, it was good I didn't payed attention to the bottle, otherwise I would have ended up using Rust-oleum enamel. That one isn't bad either, but it has a lot of linseed oil in it and it takes at least 48 hours to be sandable:



And I went to attack the last bits: mirrors, wipers, lights:
I've done the rear light bar "easy way", using felt pens. Not bad after all:


Meanwhile, after seeing this picture, I have addressed the inconsistencies of the black "rubber" stripe by the white lights.

The last bit I could manage today was the exterior mirror, done in BMF:


My Model Master lacquer is already dry to touch and tomorrow after work it should be ready for sanding and receiving the final color.

Cheers!
Gabriel

Gabriel,

That tail light looks great for using markers! Personally I've never had luck with them, perhaps the key is more patience?

Cheers to all for the welcome.
Damian - hopefully it'll represent one of the Porsche Diesel Juniors. If things start turning to custard I'll divert to Plan B and turn it into a Porsche Coffee Train P312 (petrol).
Considering the pedigree of these tractors there is actually very little info freely available, especially when compared to other exotic tractor manufacturers (Lamborghini).

Gabriel,
From what I can see, the shell looks great. As for the clear parts using Markers, I'll be the 1st to confess that I use them more and more. It's not lazy or cheating, it's using a system that works much better for certain applications then hand brushing on Tamiya clear colors.

One thing that took me for a surprise is when you said Lacquer based Model Master paints. I'm just assuming that it was a new color in their Metalizer line, which is the only Lacquer based paint from MM that I've ever seen. I just checked two online recourses and neither carries that line from Model Master.

Where did you get that paint from? Curious that they're a USA based company and don't sell it here.

Joel

Yeah, I feel a little like "cheating", but the edges of clear inserts between the orange the red lights would have been very difficult to get right with a brush.




Actually it took me by surprise as well. I bought for testing purposes - I recalled afterwards - the Gloss Black and the Chrysler Engine Red - I think some two years ago and I completely forgot until yesterday, as they were hiding mixed with my MM / Testors reserve.

I just checked the site and apparently the series was discontinued. However, they still have in stock a few lacquer colors and primers that may interest you, like this one:
https://www.scalehobbyist.com/manufacturers/Testors_Models_and_Paints/Paints/chrysler-engine-blue/TES00028012/product.php?s=3&t=1&u=1&pg=7&ppp=48&sb=stocknumber&so=a&e=0&man=tes

Gabriel

Ray, I needed like three passes over the interior of the plastic. Luckily, the alcohol-based ink dries very fast

Gabriel

Hi, guys!

UPDATE

Now I understand why Joel was rushing to grab some Model Master lacquer - that thing is really good: tough as nails, but easier to sand than 2K. I just feel stupid I didn't test it earlier and now is very difficult to find any. However, there are still a few shades left at my supplier, which I dutifully added to my shopping list. Cleaning the few imperfections was a child's play.
Then followed the shortest, best spraying session in my entire "career":


I have used the (new) Krylon Silver enamel (lacquer?), diluted with MLT 50%-50%:


The mixture was sprayed thru my H&S Evolution with .4mm setup @ 20psi, in a single coat, from approx. 12cm (4in):


There is no fault in the paint job that worth any mention: it is as close to perfection as it can be. For the first time, I don't need any sanding or supplementary preparation before 2K.
Deceptive was also the total spraying time: 4min, acording to my video camera!


After such a light coat, by tomorrow it should be well dried for 2K.

Cheers!
Gabriel

Gabriel,
The shell looks absolutely perfect. After the 2K application, don't forget to put on your sunglasses before looking at it in the light.

Joel

That looks fantastic Gabriel!
And nice recovery with modulating the black while spraying.

cheers
Michael

Thanks, Joel! Let's just hope so! But 2K is as quirky as the urethane and - remember? - at this stage I messed up last time.

Gabriel

Yeah, just momentary lack of reason with the lacquer - fortunately I had some prior experience with urethanes, and I knew right away what is to be done - otherwise I would certainly have panicked and messed up.
Yes, I'm happy with the today's result.

Thank you for your kind words!

Gabriel

That finish looks superb Gabriel, excellent work! I'm sure it will look even better under the 2K.

Cheers, D

Thank you very much, D.!
I actually guess the 2K is going to "flatten" slightly the shine - but this is not necessarily a bad thing. Backdating in the '80s, these cars weren't all that brilliant in looks. Let's see what is going to happen tomorrow.

Gabriel

Agreed Gabriel, it might flatten out the shine a bit, but it will give a really nice depth to the finish.

Can't wait to see it!

Cheers, D

Interior is done and assembled, lovely fit of all parts, no issues (except for my lousy detail painting on the instruments).



Cheers, D

D,
The pit looks great. A light wash on the seats, and it will look as real as it can get.

Joel

D. you're getting out "interiors" resident specialist. Nice one too! As Joel said, a little wash may help, but is good as is if you don't feel to take the step.

UPDATE
2K my love!

She went flawless this time. I tweaked just a bit the mixing ratio: 2 resin : 1 hardener : 1.3 reducer. I have noticed in previous sessions that, although my H&S is equipped with a .4mm setup, the atomization is very fine due the long taper of the needle and precision nozzle and the air sound was more of a whistle than the normal hissing. The new formula is spot on for my setup. One coat of overlapping passes and it was done! Voila! Ironically I have left a single "load" of this resin - I have bought already a new brand!
A secondary involuntary effect it was that the resin had become more "hot" due the higher reducer percentage and etched very superficially the very thin layer of Krylon Aluminum. All the better - because that created a very subtle pearlescent effect!
(Gabriel, stop bragging and ranting and let the images speak):







Cheers!
Gabriel

Gabriel,
You're without a doubt the master of 2k around here. The shine is spectacular even before you've done a thing to it.

Joel

Thank you, Joel.
I doubt it needs any more "treatment". It has just a few minuscule imperfections that perhaps cannot be addressed without sacrificing the natural shine, and with my polishing compound still due to arrive, I'm not ready to take any chances.

However, the resin is dry to touch on the small parts, and I couldn't resist to fit the engine cover together with the spoiler


And the other few bits were finished, waiting the final assembly. Here you have the front lights:


Cheers!
Gabriel

Hi Gabriel,
There is a Beatles song about how its getting better all the time.
"I've got to admit it's getting better (Better)
A little better all the time (It can't get no worse)
I have to admit it's getting better (Better)
It's getting better.... "

Very apt for this Porsche!

cheers
Michael

Beautiful finish Gabriel, very hard to see even the smallest fault in any of those images.

The seats on my build had a light pin wash before assembly, but I didn't want to go too heavy until I could have a good look all put together. I think I will go over it again with the same Black/Burnt Umber oil mix.

Cheers, D