Here's my start photo. Contrary to previously published reports it's not Jeff Gordon's Monte Carlo.

Target Reynard, it's a 'used' kit, all the parts appear to be in place except one radius rod on the rear suspension. It's kinda visible in the lower right corner.

The cockpit tub was started but that's it. I'm thinking of building the #12 road race version.

It looks like a completely different assembly process from other cars I've built and I might have to break down and buy some of the premium paints y'all are always singing the praises of.

I like that kit Mark it would be a good one for me one color paint job, good for us beginners.

Just a note to you all that you guys suck.

Decalpool Jagermeister decals and Gravity Jagermeister Orange ordered. Biggest question is will these make it in time to actually use for the build. Decals are coming from Hong Kong and Gravity is obviously in Spain. No idea what the lead times are really going to be.

Mark,
Just a great choice as Chip Ganassi owner with Jimmy Vasser driver, & Target as their main sponsor were right behind team Penske for my favorites race after race.

I'll be following your build for sure. As a matter of fact, one of the 2 or 3 builds on my list is an AMT Indy Car. Just looking at the kit sprues, the top and bottom chassis sections are split right down the centerline as are all the AMT kits. That seam doesn't exist on the real cars, and can be an issue to remove it between the top and bottom suspension struts.

Since it's an older Revell kit, just in case the decals aren't up to snuff, Indy Cals makes them in both 1/25 & 1/24 scales.

Joel

Gabriel,
What a fantastic start. I'm loving it for sure. About the only place on Earth I know where they make Home Depot Orange is MCW paints. They're exactly the same as Gravity and Zero paints: Pure lacquers, pre-thinned and just as expensive. But they're made in the Good Old USA which is a plus for me. Your mix looks darn close in the spoon pictures, and should be dead on over the light gray primer.

Like you said, with the hood down, no need to add anything to the engine bay, just weather what is visible when you turn it over. The engine does look good, but I'm wondering why they have the exhaust manifolds molded with flex pipe? I've never seen that before.

Joel

David,
As far as the Gravity of Spain paints, you should get your order within 3-4 days including this weekend. I just got another small paint order from the for restocks this past week, and it took only 3 days. The last time I Ordered decals from Decalpool it took more then 3 weeks. Now could be worse. Hopefully not.

Have you used Decalpool's decals before? Mine were silkscreened, beautifully registered, and the colors were dead on. The only thing I noticed is like most Asian decals, they're on the thicker side but no where like Tamiya's older decals. You should have no issues using them.

Joel

Thanks for that info Joel. I have not used Decalpool before. What do they react well to? I have Microsol/Microset and Mr Mark Softer on hand at the moment.

Joel did you mean MCW? They do have a Target Red lacquer. Looks like there's only a paper and snail mail order system. Any recommendations for primer under lacquer?
I checked out Gravity, Zero and SMS (hi Damien) they all had reds but no reference to Target Red. Zero appears to be shut down for the virus, SMS America was out of a basic Red, the Ferrari Reds at Gravity were tempting, but not Target.

Mark,
Sorry, I got the letters backwards again. The company is MCW finishes: https://mcwfinishes.com/

I haven't heard of the other company, and will be checking them out now.

Edit: just checked the link and I do remember that company. I believe that the two companies are one in the same as Mike bought them at some point a few years ago. Not sure why two sites, but I'm going to check out various colors and see what is what.

Thanks for the link.

Joel

David,
I used my usual Micro Set, Micro Sol, & Solvaset for flat surfaces, but needed the stronger Mr. Mark Set & Sol for compound curves. I'm sure that a few more applications of Solvaset would have worked just as well. But since I bought them for Asian decals, I used them only when needed.

Joel

Thanks again Joel.

Hi guys -

Wow - many of you are already into curve 1! (or, past the tree, with no curves for you drag guys!!) and looking good. It's nice to see the great collection of types being built - NASCAR, Funny cars, Gassers, F1, and more. I'm still getting the race car off the trailer, so to speak, and just signed up. My project will be an Aoshima McLaren F1 GTR longtail.

This is the kit I'm guessing a few of you have seen on various web sites that "always" seems to be on sale, which is how I stumbled into it and picked it up several months ago. I opened the box today, looked at the instructions and parts; all looks pretty good. I haven't built an Aoshima race car before, but have built some Tamiya and Fujimi GT kits, which are pretty nice, so am looking forward to finding out how they match up.

So, in short order, the race will be on for me too!

Cheers,
Nick

Joel, you're right it's the same shop. The old page has better cross reference data. The new page has online ordering, and doesn't have a minimum order amount.

Well 4 days in and this place is rocking!

Gabriel, off to an absolutely flying start mate! So much done already, and it must feel great to have a kit that isn't fighting you back all the way! Looking great so far.

Mark, I have spoken with my research assistant and he is on notice. Your entry on the running sheet is now correct. Best of luck with the open-wheeler, great to see an INDYCAR on the grid.



Yeah, we kinda do, but in a good way! Excellent to have you on board David, don't forget to hit the enlist button!

Nick strolls in with a cool Le Mans 24H McLaren! Sweeeeeeet looking unit mate. Which boxing have you got? There are a few options released now.

The running list is updated again in the first post, and I have added in the category of each car (hopefully correctly!) after your names. Once again please check the list and let me know if anything needs to be fixed.

The first lap is well under way!

Cheers, D

Have you guys used Molotow liquid chrome? It works great from what little I have used it.

Nick, I've had that kit sitting on my gotta build shelf since it was 1st released. Maybe the two tone paint scheme has always scared me. But I'll be following your build to "steal" every build bit I can. And learn just how you went about getting those demarcation colors lines dead on.

Mark, I wonder why he never took down the original site? Anyway, you've given me the addy for the old site that has a much better way to look up the proper color paint per car. His new site is terrible, and poorly organized. Every time I've spoken with him about it, he says that he's working on it, but it's just about the same. I don't want to spend $10 on his color book, so I call and ask for the right paints. Honestly, I only use him for American racing color schemes. On the plus side, his paints are the equal of Gravity and Zero paints as I never had an issue with them. But I hated his primer. Just took way to much paint to cover the plastic.

Joel

@ Joel, thanks for the clue, I almost ordered the primer. I think I will order the thinner, just in case it isn't as airbrush ready as advertised. Looks like I could use any standard lacquer thinner to clean my brush.

@ Bill, yes I've used the Molotow chrome pens, 1, 2, & 4mm. I tried using the 1mm on the rear window of my '51 Ford, I had trouble keeping it on the bead. it has a metal tip kind of like most gel pens. I used the 2mm for the side and front glass trim. since it has a felt tip like the Testors paint pens, I was able to drag it along the side and get the bead and the horizontal surfaces at the same time.

Reenlisted. Should be able to start on it some time late next week.

Howdy Y'all
This is what I'll be building:

Here's the start photo for the Corvette C7.R

I'm getting geared up for this. I haven't built an automobile model in over 40 years. Not counting a 1/48 Tamiya VW Bug.
Take care,
Don "Lakota"

I actually did a comparison with the box lid under the same lighting conditions and I can say the difference is almost unnoticeable. My color it's a little lighter, but the clear coat and decals will take care of contrast and depth. I managed a quite close match.




Joel, I cannot answer the question because I just don't know. I was watching a few YT videos for NASCAR models and apparently Revell, AMT, Monogram and Ertl share the same molds for the engine on this Chevy. I have an older Revell with a Pontiac NASCAR and the exhaust heads are as supposed to be - I just checked the manual.



Well, TCC started into a frenzy this edition. Believe it or not, I'm only on third place as completion ratio for the first entry!
The kit indeed is easy and so far I had only a problem, which I could have avoided it if I would have paid more attention - see the update.

UPDATE
My first problem in this build raised with the tires. They are simple vinyl "donuts" out of the box:


I took the usual route, by sanding first the seam line and roughing up the rolling surface:


Then I added the decals for branding - good quality decals, clear film (the glue is yellowish) and good registry. But that proven to be the wrong step:


The tires are very tight on the wheels, and the assembly mode is similar with the real car. I needed to apply a huge amount of force, until the tires literally made white stretch marks and I had to use a sculpting spatula as a lever to put them on. The decals didn't hold up to this treatment, and this is what was left after adding the tires to the wheels:

A little disappointed, because the yellow branding has huge visual impact - lost now - but I don't mind it all that much. I need to check my spares maybe I'll find some pad printed tires. For sure I don't have replacement decals.

Better news from the paint booth: my orange mix worked just fine and I managed a quite good job:








Next step: moving to the chassis. The floor pan and the front frame are molded as one. The mold is pretty clean and I made short work of eliminating a few ejector pin marks from the visible area and a few seam lines from the frame.


The floor pan was then primed with Mr. Surfacer 1500 Black:


The instructions manual calls for the entire interior floor to be painted aluminum (most likely bare metal), but a fast search online indicated than only the left half of the floor was bare metal - the driver's half had some black covering of sorts. I masked it accordingly.


The bare metal floor painted with Tamiya Chrome silver:


I test-fitted the engine to the frame, but I didn't glue it in place yet - I still need to detail it a little:




All the parts required for the next step dry-fitted. All of them fit flawlessly. At this time, most of them were already primed and a few painted:


Well, next step is to finish detailing and adding these parts, and painting the roll cage bars - the assembly is rather intricate.

Cheers!
Gabriel

Nice work on the paint Gabriel, you work fast.

Welcome to the GB Robert!
What make of 3D printer?
I am looking at buying one next week.

Another update on the engine. I removed the chrome from most of the parts added the oil pan and removed the fins as it will be engine color, i also added the fuel pump.
The block had zero detail so i added the freeze out plugs, ribs to the engine block and oil filter mount. I carved out the front of the injector hat and used epoxy sculpt to make holes for the butter flies, also added a bigger pad below the hat to fit the 8 fuel lines. All comments welcome.
My 3d printer is an Ender 3 pro i bought it 1 year ago, it prints from a spool of plastic it does not use liquid resin.

My 3d printer is an Ender 3 pro i bought it 1 year ago, it prints from a spool of plastic it does not use liquid resin.
[/quote]

Thanks for the feed back Robert!
I am looking for a twin head so I can run support filler.

Welcome to all who have joined us!
This Race is off to a great start!
Here is my latest fabrication:-


The only parts that I am using from this photo are the cockpit cowel
and the the gas tank that will form the base for a corrected one.

I just want to show the cockpit(not used) seat back error:-


I have layed out the body from .030" polystyrene:-











I am using reference photos found online for this build, I cannot share them due to copy write restrictions!