Coffee filter, yes! I was trying so hard to remember where I've seen fine mesh that I can use! I knew carburettor filters, but these are difficult to find and expensive nowadays! Coffee filter, coffee filter

Glad to see you progressing Joel, and in very good quality. As usual, nice attention to details. Great on on those air filters and all around.

Gabriel

Weekly update time!

What I'm loving about this Group Build is the variety of work going on and the amount of fine work in modifications and scratch-building in the detailing. I'm glad that we can encourage and inspire each other.

Running update on builds

5 weeks in, over 10,500 views and 500 posts
22 enlisted (plus 1, Jesper sign in please mate!)
15 builds in progress
3 completed builds

Szmann (Gabriel) - NASCAR - Chev Monte Carlo (Tony Stewart) - 1/25 AMT/ERTL kit - COMPLETED
Stickframe (Nick) - ENDURANCE - McLaren F1 GTR Longtail - 1/24 Aoshima kit - COMPLETED
Szmann (Gabriel) - NASCAR - Pontiac Grand Prix (Kyle Petty) - 1/24 Revell/Monogram kit - COMPLETED

Aussiereg (Damian) - STRAIGHTLINE - '55 Chev Pro Sportsman (Charles Carpenter) - 1/25 Revell kit - Primer and paint started
Joel_W (Joel) - FORMULA 1 - Lotus 99T Honda (Ayrton Senna 1987) - 1/20 Tamiya kit - Body/inner shell painted & decalled, chassis plate/engine/drivetrain assembly and detailing
Joel_W (Joel) - INDY - enlisted - Lola T-8800 Newman Haas (Mario Andretti 1988) - 1/25 AMT kit
Dixon66 (David) - ENDURANCE GROUP 5 - Zakspeed Capri - 1/24 Tamiya kit - Decals on order, body in primer, underside and interior complete
Dixon66 (David) - TOURING GROUP 2 - 2006 Mustang GT- 1/25 Revell kit - Interior modifications, drivetrain assembly
tinbanger (Richard) - GRAND PRIX - 1914 Mercedes Racer - 1/16 Lindberg kit - Engine and chassis started, major panel works under way, custom milled wheels/tyres and sheetmetal panels started
md72 (Mark) - INDY - enlisted - Target Reynard (Jimmy Vasser) - 1/25 Revell kit
Szmann (Gabriel) - FORMULA 1 - Tyrrell P34 (Monaco 1977 #4) - 1/20 Tamiya kit kit - Engine assembly and detailing, chassis plate and outer shell paint/decals
Hwa-Rang (Jesper) - NASCAR - (TBA)
PasiAhopelto (Pasi) - NASCAR - enlisted - Olds 442 (Donnie Allison) - 1/25 Salvinos JR kit
forest1000 (David) - FORMULA 1 - enlisted - Williams Renault (Jaques Villeneuve) - 1/24 Revell/Monogram kit
jimb (Jim) - STRAIGHTLINE - '57 Ford Sedan Gasser - Rolling chassis assembled, interior complete
Cosimodo (Michael) - ENDURANCE - 1971 Porsche 917/20 - 1/12 MFH kit - Unloaded from packing crates, parts clean-up, paint and engine assembly commenced
bluebell914 (Patrick) - ENDURANCE - enlisted - Ferrari P4 or 512S
2002hummer (Darrell) - GRAND PRIX - Lotus Super Seven (Tamiya) - Engine assembled and painted
TacFireGuru (Mike) - NASCAR - enlisted - Chev Monte Carlo (Home Depot)
Lakota (Don) - ENDURANCE - Corvette C7.R - 1/25 Revell kit - Engine assembled, floor pan/chassis under way
RedwingNev (Neil) - GRAND PRIX - enlisted - Lotus 79 (1978 Mario Andretti?) - 1/20 Tamiya kit
rv1963 (Robert) - STRAIGHTLINE - '37 Chevy Gasser - 1/25 AMT kit- Engine complete with 3D printed & custom milled parts, body painted, rolling chassis and interior detailing
heavyjagdpanzer (Bill) - STRAIGHTLINE - Blue Max Funny Car - 1/25 Revell kit - Rolling chassis completed, body work commenced
bmwh548 (Radu) - RALLY - '99 WRC Subaru Impreza - 1/24 Tamiya kit - Wheels and tyres
pnance26 (Patrick) - FORMULA 1 - Ferrari 312T - 1/12 Tamiya kit - Rolling chassis/engine/drivetrain complete, body paint and decals under way
bomber14 (Joe) - STOCK CAR - '60 Ford Starliner - AMT/ERTL kit - Body modifications and interior paint/detailing
Torpon (Carlos) - TBA - enlisted - TBA

If anybody has changed or firmed up their proposed builds, or spotted anything wrong in the list, please let me know.

Cheers, D

Time for me to post a couple of photos. They are of the engine. Not 100% finished. Not near as good as done by Patrick Nance or Robert Vaglio or the rest of you.

I have to figure out how to make better pictures

Better than me for sure!

Looking good! For better pics I recommend a photo tent that you can use also as a dust free drying area. I couldn't be happier with mine.

Gabriel

Great to see your build hit the bench Darrell, that engine looks very nice!

I've revised the list to show you as in-progress now, looking forward to more updates.

Cheers, D

Joel-Wow that looks great hard to tell it's not real.

Darrel-Your engine looks really good, i would say your first pic is just fine your second pic is a little blurry maybe you were a little to close.

Ditto to the both of you Joel and Darrell.

Gabriel,
Thanks for the thumbs up. And yes, those coffee maker filters are cheap and the fine screening is perfect for our needs.

joel

David & Robert,
Thanks guys for your liking what I've accomplished so far. I'm finally making some decent progress as all the various sub assemblies are slowly coming together.

Yesterday I finally had the weather on my side as it's to early for the A/C and with gloss coating, humidity is an issue. Took 5 coats to finish the job: tack coat, 2 base coats, & 2 wet coats. Then into the drying booth till Thursday.

joel

I have finished the chassis and running gear, except for the headers. I will put them on once I get the body mounted. I couldn't resist setting the body on the chassis, just to see what it would look like.

I have the ends of the body glued on and primered the body. A little filling and sanding and the body will be ready to paint. I chickened out on this model and I am not going to put fuel or oil lines on it,maybe next time.

Coming along nicely Bill. The chassis looks great.

Just got confirmation from evilbay that they have refunded the payment on the Gr. 5 Capri decals. Trying again from another source.

Nice work, Bill!

Joel, it's coming along nicely!

Damian, how is your project progressing?

I'm at the decision point on the wings except new players hve been introduced... Testor's Metalizer and Tamiya AS-12 Bare Metal both buffed out after application.

Here is what I have so far... top is the kit chrome, middle is Bare Metal Foil, bottom is Gloss Aluminum. Gloss Aluminum is out. And now I need to try the other two!



And here is the a photo from a great book of color images...

Bill-Those rear slicks look great, even better with the body on.

Patrick,
I really think that you should consider one of the Metalizer's like Alcad 2 Chrome over Gloss Black without a primer under the black. TS-12 decanted would be basically the same as the Alcad 2 Chrome.

Joel

Bill,
The body shell looks fantastic over the chassis, which is a true gem to start with. Those slicks with the low air pressure sagging really is one of the stars of the build. Can't wait to see how the shell looks with it's color coats on.

Joel

David,
Glad that you got your refund from Evil Bay.

Joel

Joel, here's my problem.

I am out of my comfort zone with alclad and with this metalizer. And I have put so much work into this model that I just don't want to screw it up.

There! I said it. It scares me that this could go south so easily. I know I can always try to by another "K" sprue for the car. And I guess if I screw up an air brush...

This may be a first on any board... admitting that something scares you when it comes to this.

But I might be able to bite the bullet. I do have two airbrushes so...

I will use the Tamiya AS-12 decanted, right? Do I need to put down a Tamiya gloss black without primer? Will rattle can black do?

Talk me down off the ledge guys. I need some help!

Patrick

Patrick,
If you can use an air brush, you can shoot Alcads without any issues.

The primer coat is so that paint has a surface to bite into, but that surface is rough and is only useful for things like Aluminum castings. So the Gloss Black has to do both jobs, a primer coat for the Alcad to grab on to, and to prevent the plastic from crazing.

For all Alcads I set my flow rate to 15 psi, and you want nice easy even coats. the lighter the better. I also apply the Tamiya X-1 Gloss Black exactly the same way, and at the same pressure. I thin it 2:3 with my favorite LC thinner Mr. Leveler's #400. It's way easier then any color coat. As soon as you see the Chrome building up, you're done. Walk away, give it a few min and check it under a good light. Let it dry a full day. That's it.

Remember, i've seen your painting work, and this is a no brainer. If you want, do a practice run 1st.

I use my 3.5mm AB setup. You can go smaller but not larger.

And for the record, I've heard a lot of guys afraid of all sorts of modeling stuff. We all have those hidden demons.

Joel

Look a couple of pages back Patrick, I described myself as "basically chicken" when it comes to applying BMF to large areas! Nothing wrong with being apprehensive about trying something new, especially when it comes to something that you have put so much time and effort (and expense) into. It took me a while to get the courage to try an NMF on a larger area than just detail parts, but it's just part of the routine now.

The most important thing with getting a good NMF is surface prep. Make sure you get every little scratch and ding smoothed out because the gloss black and NFM will magnify it to stick out like proverbial canine round dangly things!

Once you get the gloss black undercoat nice and smooth, the NMF is a breeze, just nice even light coats to build up the opacity to the finish you like.

I used old CD covers to test my technique, and most people use plastic spoons now, and also remember that if things go pear shaped, it is a short swim and a quick scrub to strip the part and start again.

Cheers, D

Here's also part of the problem... you said "I use my 3.5mm AB setup..." I have no idea what that means. As I said, I use rattle cans all the time and very little airbrush. How do i find out what diameter and what needle I am using?

Also, I will have to check on the leveler that I have... I have Tamiya Airbrush cleaner. I hope that will work...

Damian,

I am willing to try this out. Good idea about the spoons since I espouse that method all the time. I plan on scrubbing down to 12000 grit before I shoot anything.

Hi Patrick

For what it's worth, I get nervous moving ahead on projects with new methods and materials too - nonetheless, that's just what I do. I rationalize it by remembering that this is a hobby, so, I'm the boss - if I screw it up, well, there you go. If not, some nice surprises, moreover, it was my decision, and not something I was told to do, like at work: "...but, we always do it this way...".

Regarding the use of silver, I've been using various shades of Vallejo Metal through my airbrush lately and like the results.

If you look on the second page of a post of mine called "F1 Fun" you'll see a Ferrari with a lot of silver. The majority is photo etch, but, the front and rear wings are painted and they look pretty good. I think I only used Tamyia fine grey as the base, then shot the silver over it. All of the metallic shades you'll see on the three builds in this series are using the Vallejo Metallic - so, I'm sticking with it. It's an acrylic that I've been able to blend as I see fit, and brush paint too. I used the same on the Mclaren GTR for this group build too.

Looking forward to seeing your results -

Nick

Nick,
If you look on the second page of a post of mine called "F1 Fun" you'll see a Ferrari with a lot of silver.

Where is that page located? Here?

F1 Fun

There you go Patrick!

Cheers, D